Evilchargerfan's GK5 - Ballin On A Budget, Minus The Ballin Part (poor mans build!)
#41
Thanks for the info Evilchargerfan and USDM.
With what I’m reading I think I will put the shift bushings On hold for a bit and take care of a few other things first.
The eBay door sill illumination is looking mighty tempting.
Thanks for the link!
With what I’m reading I think I will put the shift bushings On hold for a bit and take care of a few other things first.
The eBay door sill illumination is looking mighty tempting.
Thanks for the link!
#43
Just installed an uber jdm, RA123 Razo GT Spec knob. 270g, def feels nice and heavy ish. Makes for some solid, clicky shifts! Also, the material has a nice luxurious ish feel to it. Next mod, will more than likely be the acuity collar to fix that shift boot sag
Highly recommended!
Highly recommended!
#44
After installing lowering springs, the car looked fantastic. But performance took a slight hit, and the car became bouncy. Koni has a special running so ... this was a no brainer purchase. For those who need the rebate:
KONI NA | KONI Improved Rebate
Prior to the switch away from D2 Racing springs, I took some ride height measurements:
Front Left:
http://raceconsultingagency.com/koni...i-1972198.aspx
Front Right:
http://raceconsultingagency.com/koni...i-1972199.aspx
Rears:
http://raceconsultingagency.com/koni...i-1972200.aspx
KONI NA | KONI Improved Rebate
Prior to the switch away from D2 Racing springs, I took some ride height measurements:
Front Left:
http://raceconsultingagency.com/koni...i-1972198.aspx
Front Right:
http://raceconsultingagency.com/koni...i-1972199.aspx
Rears:
http://raceconsultingagency.com/koni...i-1972200.aspx
Last edited by evilchargerfan; 05-23-2018 at 02:35 PM.
#45
Install was straight forward. Huge bonus when removing the D2 springs.... no spring compressor needed! YAY!
The only thing(s) I was not 100% sure on was... how much of the bump stop to trim... and the order of re assembling of the rears. I'll attach pics, if I did it wrong.... someone please let me know
This was how the oem rears came off
This was the way re assembled the koni's
Trimmed 1.5 inch off the bump stops
Will report back after a week to let it all settle
The only thing(s) I was not 100% sure on was... how much of the bump stop to trim... and the order of re assembling of the rears. I'll attach pics, if I did it wrong.... someone please let me know
This was how the oem rears came off
This was the way re assembled the koni's
Trimmed 1.5 inch off the bump stops
Will report back after a week to let it all settle
Last edited by evilchargerfan; 05-23-2018 at 02:48 PM.
#47
Toyed around with some Vinyl wrap. The box arrived with intense damage, the ebay seller was nice enough to send me a replacement roll free of charge. Instead of wasting the material, I took this opportunity to use it as practice.... dont laugh at me too hard, this is my 1st ever attempt at wrapping anything
For those who care:
$32 for a 6ft x 5ft roll
https://www.ebay.com/itm/163031866462
Per CK Wraps, just plop it on and adjust as needed. I will say, I dont recommend this method, it would have been smarter to expose a small portion at a time instead
with the help of a good friend, and TONS of lifting and repositioning .... was finally able to get it flat/smoothed out
For those who care:
$32 for a 6ft x 5ft roll
https://www.ebay.com/itm/163031866462
Per CK Wraps, just plop it on and adjust as needed. I will say, I dont recommend this method, it would have been smarter to expose a small portion at a time instead
with the help of a good friend, and TONS of lifting and repositioning .... was finally able to get it flat/smoothed out
#50
It was a good learning experience. I'll be honest, its a horrible job, lol. On 2nd attempt, I may consider actually being less lazy and removing the antenna first for a more clean install
#51
Interesting tidbit, not my company, but I work in vinyl...that wrap costs distributors WELL under $2 for a foot length (54" wide). The mark up on vinyl is absolutely nuts. If anyone wants a group buy on this stuff, let me know, I have some distributors I can recommend.
#52
Finally got around to installing that darn Torque Rod. Per a few posts ago ... followed the repair manual and torqued the bolts to 61lb and 69lbs and in the order specified. One thing they dont mention is, the new Torque Rod going in, may not align right up on first try .... but its not hard at all, to use 1 hand and simply nudge the motor in the direction you need it to move
Impressions ..... this is a MUST DO. For those of you on the fence.... DO IT NOW and stop thinking about it. The car "feels" faster. Down shifts feel more crisp, the car over all exhibits less slop and wobble, the car feels more "sporty". NVH slightly increased .... like during idle and when AC is on .... but it is most definitely worth it!
I am considering taking my OEM Torque Rod and torching out ALL of the rubber, and doing a full re fill using the hard liquid urethane stuff. Example:
Impressions ..... this is a MUST DO. For those of you on the fence.... DO IT NOW and stop thinking about it. The car "feels" faster. Down shifts feel more crisp, the car over all exhibits less slop and wobble, the car feels more "sporty". NVH slightly increased .... like during idle and when AC is on .... but it is most definitely worth it!
I am considering taking my OEM Torque Rod and torching out ALL of the rubber, and doing a full re fill using the hard liquid urethane stuff. Example:
#53
DannyJ7, if you start a group buy, I may be interested! I plan on one day vinyl wrapping the car white
While I was under the car, I also took the time to install a Megan Lower Control Arm Brace Thingee (MRS-HA-1290). I havent had much play time with the new setup yet, I'll have to report back later on my impressions.
Also took a few minutes to check my alignment ... I plan on dialing in the left side, to match the right side. the goal:
-drivers front:
-camber close as possible to -1
-0 out the toe, or get it within 0.5mm toe in
-drivers side rear:
-camber close as possible to -1.5
-get the toe in down to 2mm
While I was under the car, I also took the time to install a Megan Lower Control Arm Brace Thingee (MRS-HA-1290). I havent had much play time with the new setup yet, I'll have to report back later on my impressions.
Also took a few minutes to check my alignment ... I plan on dialing in the left side, to match the right side. the goal:
-drivers front:
-camber close as possible to -1
-0 out the toe, or get it within 0.5mm toe in
-drivers side rear:
-camber close as possible to -1.5
-get the toe in down to 2mm
#54
So I recently picked up one of these:
Megan Racing Lower Arm Bar (MRS-HA-1291)
Lower Arm Bar for Honda Fit 2015+
Install seemed straight forward, I imagined it would go down something like this:
Well .... it didnt go so smooth. When I line up the front of the brace (narrow end) against the sub frame, it looks like this:
(lines up good, but no where to stick bolts through)
(And the rear end/wider end does not line up as the hardrace bar does)
(another shot slightly from further away)
I tried another approach, what if I lined up the wider end first .... well ... once I try that, the front end/narrow end no longer reaches the sub frame:
At this point, I am convinced that either they sent me the wrong PN and maybe this bar was meant for a 1st or 2nd gen? OR .... Megan's R&D is really really bad, and this bar will never ever fit any GK5's that try
Has any one else out there, had any luck (good or bad) with this bar? Any input is greatly appreciated!
Megan Racing Lower Arm Bar (MRS-HA-1291)
Lower Arm Bar for Honda Fit 2015+
Install seemed straight forward, I imagined it would go down something like this:
Well .... it didnt go so smooth. When I line up the front of the brace (narrow end) against the sub frame, it looks like this:
(lines up good, but no where to stick bolts through)
(And the rear end/wider end does not line up as the hardrace bar does)
(another shot slightly from further away)
I tried another approach, what if I lined up the wider end first .... well ... once I try that, the front end/narrow end no longer reaches the sub frame:
At this point, I am convinced that either they sent me the wrong PN and maybe this bar was meant for a 1st or 2nd gen? OR .... Megan's R&D is really really bad, and this bar will never ever fit any GK5's that try
Has any one else out there, had any luck (good or bad) with this bar? Any input is greatly appreciated!
#55
UPDATE:
I provided my VIN plate on the drivers side door jamb. It would appear some early production 2015s have a subframe that does not fit the bar. Megan was very nice about the returns process, and I will be getting a refund soon. I'm a little sad
I provided my VIN plate on the drivers side door jamb. It would appear some early production 2015s have a subframe that does not fit the bar. Megan was very nice about the returns process, and I will be getting a refund soon. I'm a little sad
#58
its not bad! its not a huge diff like a sway bar would make, but nonetheless its still awesome. cleans up the front end slightly when you take turns at fast-ish speeds. id say it was well worth the price tag of mid $40s
I ordered from this vendor, I did the "submit offer" thing and was able to shave off a few dollars
https://www.ebay.com/itm/MEGAN-FRONT...72.m2749.l2649
(also too, at the time of purchase, there was a 20% off ebay coupon to make the deal even more sweet)
it is the first attempt. the pics dont show up close imperfections. its hard to see from far away. its definitely noticeable up close.
I ordered from this vendor, I did the "submit offer" thing and was able to shave off a few dollars
https://www.ebay.com/itm/MEGAN-FRONT...72.m2749.l2649
(also too, at the time of purchase, there was a 20% off ebay coupon to make the deal even more sweet)
it is the first attempt. the pics dont show up close imperfections. its hard to see from far away. its definitely noticeable up close.
#59
Found a good deal on oil and filters, so I bought some items in anticipation of my 1st oil change. Those of you familiar with slickdeals.net will know, I took advantage of the $12 rebate sale, which makes a jug of mobil 1 0w-20 $13 ish (ar). The filter was $7 ish on amazon.
I usually use PL14610, but I thought I'd give this "purolator BOSS" stuff a try .... both items are rated for 15k ... I do plan on going the distance, and will provide a UOA afterwards to see how the combo holds up .... this will be a long-term "ill report back later to you guys" kinda test.
If it goes well ... my oci's will be 15k from here on out. If the UOA looks horrible, I'll stick to 7500 and go back to plain jane PL14610 and non extended performance 0w-20.
Mobil 1 120903 Extended Performance 0W-20
Purolator PBL14610 PurolatorBOSS
I usually use PL14610, but I thought I'd give this "purolator BOSS" stuff a try .... both items are rated for 15k ... I do plan on going the distance, and will provide a UOA afterwards to see how the combo holds up .... this will be a long-term "ill report back later to you guys" kinda test.
If it goes well ... my oci's will be 15k from here on out. If the UOA looks horrible, I'll stick to 7500 and go back to plain jane PL14610 and non extended performance 0w-20.
Mobil 1 120903 Extended Performance 0W-20
https://www.amazon.com/Mobil-120903-Extended-Performance-0W-20/dp/B00JTUBTQG/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1528920692&sr=8-4&keywords=mobil+1+extended&dpID=51JK7WucemL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
Purolator PBL14610 PurolatorBOSS