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Damn man that sucks. did it take out the side skirt too? Or has that been missing? Looks like most of the damage with the exception of the rear fender area looks like its clear coat damage and most should buff out. Or was it deep and itts simply not just surface damage??
Yeah it took out the side skirt too. I've got that sitting in a closet until I buy one new clip. There's a small dent on the door as well as the QP. RIP AP1 bushing budget.
Ok, before I order from RHD Japan... I'm going to buy these parts, hopefully I can find some members that know people.
Cusco or Beatrush lower front braces (both of them), J's rear pillar brace and floor brace and a rear sway bar (Any manufacturer).
If you guys know anyone that's selling any of these parts let me know.
Cusco is 20000 yen=~$185 USD. This doesnt include shipping.
Originally Posted by mikes-ge
Ok, before I order from RHD Japan... I'm going to buy these parts, hopefully I can find some members that know people.
Cusco or Beatrush lower front braces (both of them), J's rear pillar brace and floor brace and a rear sway bar (Any manufacturer).
If you guys know anyone that's selling any of these parts let me know.
So I parked at work and it seems like our parking area/lot is fairly level. I re-measured the car at each corner and each corner is within <5mm of eachother. I think this is about as close as I'm gonna get.
Yesterday was the first time I rode with passengers in the back, my 13 y/o son (about 100lbs) and my 4’11” mother (90ish lbs). Due to my wheel offset the rears would rub on every dip. So may have to raise rears a hair, roll/pull fenders…or consider new wheels with more offset/less width. Love the rays wheels (15x8 +35) and the ride height I’m at…but don’t love the rubbing and don’t want to go bonkers rolling/pulling fenders. A 7”-7-1/2" wide +35 would probably do the trick since the rubbing is very mild and is hitting the front little lip where I’m pointing. Fortunately it’s on the inside. Figure if I flatten that section fender lip it may clear...but I dont want to ruin the integrity of the fender by flattening that strategic bend either. Too bad I can’t do any rear camber as that would be an easy solution as well. Thoughts? No rear poke due to "perfect" lining up with fender which is awesome...but rubbing is not awesome...
I did some maintenance today. Front brakes and coolant flush with new thermostat.
so I had an interesting findings with these Tein Flex Z's. The instructions say not to go past 16 clicks. But the dampening doesn't even start till the 16th turn. And then the stiffness gets better once I go beyond 16 clicks. Also, these rear springs are weak and weird. Looks like I need to get a different set of rear springs.
Nice placement of the TEIN stick/placard on the airbox.
Regarding the rears, that was one concern I had with the TEINs. They were similar in spring rate as the swifts I had and were too soft IMO.
As for clicks it does only say there are 16 clicks. Anything over that sounds no bueno.
Thats what Tein states in their instructions, but I swear, anything below 16 clicks is as if there is no dampening and its just running strait spring. 16 clicks and beyond you can feel a difference. Its confusing a s hell.
As for the springs in the rear: when I lift up the rear of the car the springs are compressed for the first 3 coils. I maybe doing something wrong in the rear. I did some adjustments to the shocks to raise up the ride height. I had my wife and son in the car yesterday and I was scraping the shit out of my tires on the suggested dampening. I adjusted the shocks and I increased the dampening past 16clicks and now its feels way better.
It's been a crazy weekend in so many different aspects:
Firstly, I went to that meet on Saturday. At 10PM. It ended at 11 xD
But thankfully they are gonna happen every weekend. That was the "test." It's hosted at a dragstrip hehehe... Check the videos/pics attached to this post.
I went through a very rough transition with my parents this past few days (I'm 19y/o, Freshman in college). Everything's okay now but I basically told them who I am and who I'm becoming and they had to accept it.
Following that, I plan to go into automotive engineering, because, why not spend the rest of my life working on cars? That being said, I need a break from school so I can literally get my life together.
Starting in two weeks, I'll be working 4-5 jobs. Originally I was gonna take 8 credit hours this summer but that will wait until I know for sure what I want to do. One of these jobs happens to give me 20% off everything in store (Autozone)...
Which means: I'll have an enormous amount of expendable income. I plan to transfer insurance/living etc. to myself, and pay for everything. That gives me the freedom to do whatever, whenever
SO, expect this car to be done by a year from now. Completely done. I plan to pick up another project car this summer, because why not?? I'm looking into old nissans, I want a 300zx, 280z, or old STI or Evo. That will be a daily while the Fit gets overhauled.
My plans for the Fit are as follows:
1. Weight Reduction. By far the easiest, most cost-effective power on the market. I expect the car (and me) to drop all unnecessary weight, including A/C, sound deadening, etc.
2. Engine. I want a Civic Type-R engine. The new Type-R. Now yeah, we're talking at least $6k, but a true turbo build will be twice that. This way, I have a super powerful stock engine (N/A) and I can spend another $6k and get a decent turbo. At even as little as 15lbs of boost, the car will be stupid fast.
3. Aesthetic Appeal. When I first got this car at age 16 I didn't care, I just wanted to look cool and sound cool. Now I wanna go all OEM and be fast. So that's that
4. 0-60. This is similar in vein to the engine/weight sections, but I want the 0-60 time to be sub-4 seconds. Easily achievable. I do want this car to be street legal as well.
So to make a long story short, I'll be making a shitload of money and putting most of it into this car. My goal is the fastest daily, street legal Fit in the states. Or the world?
But, I have to finish strong this semester. So this will all start happening about 2 weeks from now. Stay tuned. And speaking of tuned my first purchase will be a K-tuner, to decide whether or not I should just keep the L15A7 and overhaul it.
Also, if you want quick updates, follow me on Snapchat @daniel.todd
And I'm going to start a YT channel to host all of this. There will be a lot of videos. Speaking of which, once I figure out this 4k camera I'll post the drag vids and others.
Last edited by counterFIT; 04-17-2017 at 11:50 PM.
Thats what Tein states in their instructions, but I swear, anything below 16 clicks is as if there is no dampening and its just running strait spring. 16 clicks and beyond you can feel a difference. Its confusing a s hell.
As for the springs in the rear: when I lift up the rear of the car the springs are compressed for the first 3 coils. I maybe doing something wrong in the rear. I did some adjustments to the shocks to raise up the ride height. I had my wife and son in the car yesterday and I was scraping the shit out of my tires on the suggested dampening. I adjusted the shocks and I increased the dampening past 16clicks and now its feels way better.
When you lift the rear they are compressed? Maybe you didn't setup the rear properly. When the rear is lifted/on jack stands, the springs should be tight in the perches but with little to no preload/compression on them. Then you adjust the struts to be the exact length you need. This makes it so at max droop the spring is still in the perches snug and you have full travel of the strut. If you have the strut at the wrong length then you will have a crumby ride quality. Basically you are limiting the travel on it. The ride height is all controlled by the spring, the comfort/dampening is controlled by the strut.
Here is a video I found helpful. Sure its on a car with rear control arms, but the process is the same, just ignore the control arm stuff.
Lift car, support car, support spring bucket, remove lower strut bolt, ensure you have proper tension/preload on spring (measure), adjust strut length so the bolt EASILY goes back in, install bolt, drop and do the other side.
It's been a crazy weekend in so many different aspects:
Firstly, I went to that meet on Saturday. At 10PM. It ended at 11 xD
Check the videos/pics attached to this post.
Also, if you want quick updates, follow me on Snapchat @daniel.todd
And I'm going to start a YT channel to host all of this. There will be a lot of videos. Speaking of which, once I figure out this 4k camera I'll post the drag vids and others.
Sounds like a good event and also sounds like you've had yourself quite the weekend.
When you lift the rear they are compressed? Maybe you didn't setup the rear properly. When the rear is lifted/on jack stands, the springs should be tight in the perches but with little to no preload/compression on them. Then you adjust the struts to be the exact length you need. This makes it so at max droop the spring is still in the perches snug and you have full travel of the strut. If you have the strut at the wrong length then you will have a crumby ride quality. Basically you are limiting the travel on it. The ride height is all controlled by the spring, the comfort/dampening is controlled by the strut.
Here is a video I found helpful. Sure its on a car with rear control arms, but the process is the same, just ignore the control arm stuff.
Lift car, support car, support spring bucket, remove lower strut bolt, ensure you have proper tension/preload on spring (measure), adjust strut length so the bolt EASILY goes back in, install bolt, drop and do the other side.
I def did this and still the springs compressed. it so weird. I've just haven't experienced this before. The dampening adjustment is odd as well. maybe Tein needs some better QC.
Aside from that I went ham at RHDjapan:
CUSCO Front Lower Arm Bar Version I - GP1 GP4 GG7 GE6 GE8 RU3 ZF1 ZE2 GB3 JB1 GK3 GK5
CUSCO Front Lower Arm Bar Version II - GB3 GE6 GE8 GP1 GP2 GG7 ZF1 ZE2
Laile Rear Wagon Bar Honda FIT GD1 GD3 GE8
Spoon Sports Subframe Rear Rigid Collar Kit - ZF ZE GJ FN GK GE RU
Laile Beatrush Floor Performance Bar - Fit GE8
who knows how long its going to be. I pain FED EX economy. See how long it takes. I just need the RWB now.
04-16-2017 | 01:48 AM
