HELP! Oil leak!
#1
HELP! Oil leak!
Hey everyone,
I have an 07 UK Honda Jazz (I live this side of the pond). Its a 1.4 iDSI CVT.
Recently its been drinking way more oil than usual which had me wondering but I just put it down to mileage (105k miles).
Today while cleaning my wheels, I spotted a small oil patch on my driveway. I got down under the car and noticed the etire sump its literally COVERED in oil. As well as most of the surrounding areas.
Can anyone recommend where I check first, I'm assuming sump gasket (if the fit/Jazz has one) or a nearby hose/fitting.
Any help is appreciated.
Jack
I have an 07 UK Honda Jazz (I live this side of the pond). Its a 1.4 iDSI CVT.
Recently its been drinking way more oil than usual which had me wondering but I just put it down to mileage (105k miles).
Today while cleaning my wheels, I spotted a small oil patch on my driveway. I got down under the car and noticed the etire sump its literally COVERED in oil. As well as most of the surrounding areas.
Can anyone recommend where I check first, I'm assuming sump gasket (if the fit/Jazz has one) or a nearby hose/fitting.
Any help is appreciated.
Jack
#2
If you have a shop change your oil instead of doing it yourself, you may also want to check the threads on your drain plug. (Of course, this would involve changing out the oil too). I frequently had shops change mine for me and someone stripped the threads out of my oil pan on my civic. Had to go to a junkyard and swap it out.
This may not be the most common issue, but is another place to check.
This may not be the most common issue, but is another place to check.
#3
The way to determine the source is to clean the areas affected (start from above) then monitor the engine to see where the oil is coming from.
It could be a valve cover gasket or the seal on a sender (common Honda issues).
Post back when you narrow it down...
It could be a valve cover gasket or the seal on a sender (common Honda issues).
Post back when you narrow it down...
#4
Thanks for the responses. I'm going to book a day off work shortly and get the car in the air to have a look.
Spoke to a colleague at work today who thinks it could be the head gasket or a cracked sump. Not sure how accurate that is. But I will post back when I know more.
Jack
Spoke to a colleague at work today who thinks it could be the head gasket or a cracked sump. Not sure how accurate that is. But I will post back when I know more.
Jack
Last edited by jackanyon; 03-01-2017 at 09:14 AM.
#5
Not so convinced about a head gasket unless you have other issues (smoke, 'milk' in the oil). And, the leak seems to be mostly at the back-side of the engine. I would think that if you ran over road debris big enough to crack the aluminium, you would know it!!!!
Just get it checked out. You will save shop-time diagnostic charges if you attempt to do some cleaning yourself. Get a spray can of carb or brake cleaner and have at it. GRIN
Just get it checked out. You will save shop-time diagnostic charges if you attempt to do some cleaning yourself. Get a spray can of carb or brake cleaner and have at it. GRIN
#6
I'm hoping its not the head gasket! I've just wiped out the exhaust and it seems very 'wet' and black. I'm not too sure whether its oil or just soot. I do have a sports exhaust but not sure if that changes anything.
Also, it seems like there is a fair bit of smoke exiting, but I cant really tell the colour, but there is certainly a strong smell of something...
I think its worth adding that when the car is idling, it vibrates like you wouldn't imagine. Again, I'm not sure if that is an added symptom of anything.
Any ideas?
Jack
Also, it seems like there is a fair bit of smoke exiting, but I cant really tell the colour, but there is certainly a strong smell of something...
I think its worth adding that when the car is idling, it vibrates like you wouldn't imagine. Again, I'm not sure if that is an added symptom of anything.
Any ideas?
Jack
#7
Dont Panic Breath start with the basics:
1. Check oil filter is solidly hand tight they are NOT supposed to be tightened with a wrench.
a) Replace the filter make sure there is only 1 gasket/O-riing sometimes the seal comes off the filter and stays on the engine (All marques not just honda)
2. Oil pressure sender. (Common on most vehicles)
3. Oil Pan/Sump Gasket.
4. Valve cover gasket and bolt seals. Normal age item to replace.
4. Crankshaft seals (Front and rear) often required after 100K miles.
You have to clean the engine to find the leak. Simple Green and a spray car wash are your friend. You can buy a small kit from auto parts stores with a LED-UV flashlight and some dye that you put in the oil. Best done in the dark. Once you start the engine after adding it to the sump it usually shows the source quickly, but make sure you've got the engine clean.
Leave the splash tray off if equipped until you identify the leak it will sometime spread the drips around.
If you have any of these:
White smoke sweet smell out of exhaust is coolant. (Possible Head Gasket)
Dark Black smoke is fuel. (Bad Injector will wash down cylinder walls and use oil, soot in tail pipe)
Blue smoke at tail pipe is oil. (Rings, Valve Guides/Seals, soot in tail pipe)
DO A LEAKDOWN TEST!!!!! Compression test is not the final answer.
Good Luck!
1. Check oil filter is solidly hand tight they are NOT supposed to be tightened with a wrench.
a) Replace the filter make sure there is only 1 gasket/O-riing sometimes the seal comes off the filter and stays on the engine (All marques not just honda)
2. Oil pressure sender. (Common on most vehicles)
3. Oil Pan/Sump Gasket.
4. Valve cover gasket and bolt seals. Normal age item to replace.
4. Crankshaft seals (Front and rear) often required after 100K miles.
You have to clean the engine to find the leak. Simple Green and a spray car wash are your friend. You can buy a small kit from auto parts stores with a LED-UV flashlight and some dye that you put in the oil. Best done in the dark. Once you start the engine after adding it to the sump it usually shows the source quickly, but make sure you've got the engine clean.
Leave the splash tray off if equipped until you identify the leak it will sometime spread the drips around.
If you have any of these:
White smoke sweet smell out of exhaust is coolant. (Possible Head Gasket)
Dark Black smoke is fuel. (Bad Injector will wash down cylinder walls and use oil, soot in tail pipe)
Blue smoke at tail pipe is oil. (Rings, Valve Guides/Seals, soot in tail pipe)
DO A LEAKDOWN TEST!!!!! Compression test is not the final answer.
Good Luck!
Last edited by dwtaylorpdx; 03-01-2017 at 01:59 PM.
#9
Well I'm convinced the issue is the head gasket or worn valves. I got the car up in the air and found the oil leak issue to be a damaged oil filter so I've replaced that and thats now sorted!
Got my friend to rev it up after leaving it idling for 10 minutes or so, and I get THICK blue clouds. No milky oil however. Ut I could be wrong. You'd be amazed at how blue the smoke is. Its practically navy blue... which makes me think valve seals.
I'm gonna give replacing the head gasket a crack, if its not the valve seals. Can someone confirm that this part number is the correct one for the 1.3iDSI head gasket: 12251-PWA-J01, I can get one for about £45 which doesn't seem right, seems too cheap?
http://m.mister-auto.co.uk/en/cylinder-head-gasket/payen-ag9180_g318_a113AG9180.html
A quick google told me thats the part number, but I don't fancy stripping back the entire head to find its the wrong gasket.
Cheers everyone!
Jack
Got my friend to rev it up after leaving it idling for 10 minutes or so, and I get THICK blue clouds. No milky oil however. Ut I could be wrong. You'd be amazed at how blue the smoke is. Its practically navy blue... which makes me think valve seals.
I'm gonna give replacing the head gasket a crack, if its not the valve seals. Can someone confirm that this part number is the correct one for the 1.3iDSI head gasket: 12251-PWA-J01, I can get one for about £45 which doesn't seem right, seems too cheap?
http://m.mister-auto.co.uk/en/cylinder-head-gasket/payen-ag9180_g318_a113AG9180.html
A quick google told me thats the part number, but I don't fancy stripping back the entire head to find its the wrong gasket.
Cheers everyone!
Jack
Last edited by jackanyon; 03-15-2017 at 10:25 AM.
#10
I'd replace the valve guides/seals first...had that issue on several cars.
A nearby shop would be able to do it without removing the head. (They pressurized the combustion chamber to hold the valves in place while replacing.) Cost was MUCH less than removing the cylinder head.
A nearby shop would be able to do it without removing the head. (They pressurized the combustion chamber to hold the valves in place while replacing.) Cost was MUCH less than removing the cylinder head.
#11
I'd replace the valve guides/seals first...had that issue on several cars.
A nearby shop would be able to do it without removing the head. (They pressurized the combustion chamber to hold the valves in place while replacing.) Cost was MUCH less than removing the cylinder head.
A nearby shop would be able to do it without removing the head. (They pressurized the combustion chamber to hold the valves in place while replacing.) Cost was MUCH less than removing the cylinder head.
Thanks for the help!
#12
You can do the valve seals by feeding a length of parachute cord into the cylinders one at a time then BY HAND gently turning the engine towards top dead center.. the rope will hold the valves up. The chamber on the fit is extremely small so it doesn't take much and make sure you keep one end out of the cylinder! You do the seals in the same order as a valve adjust, You will need a tool to compress the valve springs with the head on, it usually is a shaft like the rocker arm shaft with a fork to grab the valve retainer and a lever to let you pull on it to compress the spring.
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