Since Clinometer is available for Andorid I snagged it as well

 

... [/google searches and downloads]

 

We've used washers and shims to reset toe and camber twice when just squaring the axle wasn't enough but it is a long and labor intensive excersise. You can measure and calculate all you want but in the end you have to sneakm up on the change to specs. So in the end its not as easy as just saying it.
PS squaring the axle is making the axle perpindicular to the chassis centerline. Sometimes that will bring toe on both sides in spec. Thanks to manufacturing assembly tolerances the axle isn't square enough to avoid toe out on one side and toe in on the other.
Thanks for the reply even though its not new, which we hoped it would be.

 

Hey guys, sorry for the uber late reply been busy with work.

Hey, I'm not sure which Tokicos you'd be interested in whether you would want the Blues or HTSs but I went ahead and ordered mine from a vendor on here since they were the last in stock at the time.

Which Tokicos were you interested in? We still might be able to get a GB organized if enough people are interested.

Hey, we might be able to do a group buy on pads (and shoes) if we can get enough interest. I'd have to look into how we would do the and if we'd need Carbotech to become a vendor here or something.

In the case, that we are unable to do a GB... According to Carbotech it'll take approximately 5 days to get the pads (including making the pads and shipping if memory serves me right). For shoes, there is a core charge (included in price); however, I forgot what the core charge is at this time.

 

for toe and camber changes you can also used these:

Specialty Products Company | SPC Alignment | The Automotive Alignment Leaders

they have a pretty decent chart to tell you how to place them to get the camber and toe change you desire, it is what I use.

 

Who one here is interested in a good quality harness bar custom built for a Fit.

I am working on a bar now, it will bolt to the factory rear seat latching point and the plan is to keep the latch in place and have a section just poke through the factory plastic and the bar would be removable and will have 2 adjustable down bars to make it a 4 point install like other harness bars on the market. Will be made out of quality DOM roll cage tubing and tig welded. I am curious if anyone would be interested in a group buy, If we can build multiples at one time, it would lower the cost due to setup and material costs. Let me know, may have a mocked up bar this weekend for a design example

 

I'd be interested in either, just something to replace the worn out OEM dampers.

 

I see... Well I guess I'll let the cat out of the bag since its on their site now.

I ordered a set of HTSs from Bean Garage last week. It wasn't even listed on the site before hand but its updated now. They have Tokico HPs (Blues) and Tokico HTSs (Red) as well as KYB Excel-Gs... Listed prices are SHIPPED! ^.^

Shop by Car Make - Honda Fit - Honda Fit 06-08 - Honda Fit Suspension - Honda Fit Shocks - Bean Garage

 

A new addition to the part's pile.

 

IF there is any wau to do this with the rear seat still installed, this would be IDEAL!!!

 

well, we changed thought some this weekend and are going to do it totally different than the norm. I am not a huge fan of harness bars. I have seen rollovers and other impacts where the pillar shifts and the harness either loosens on the driver, or tightens and will cause serious injuries.

We will now be making a "peg" that bolts in at the rear outer front seat bracket bolt and will be made to stay bolted in place. then we will have a mini-hoopthat will have a machined steel joint so that when inserted into the peg, it makes a clean smooth joint. will also have a cross bar down low to further stiffen the bar. Then links will come back from the hoop to attach onto the stock rear seat latch loop and will also have machined fittings for a clean and very strong install.

The cost to do it this way is higher for sure, will be made of DOM roll cage tubing and the safety and strength will be far beyond a standard pillar mount harness bar. The problem is that there is no way to build it properly and still allow rear seat to be in the car when the bar is installed., just no enough room when seats are laid down

 

We need to respire this. Does anyone AutoX still?

 

Never quit!

My car got on the podium with a second place finish ( by 0.047!!!) at the El Toro ProSolo. Currently gearing up for the Tour/Pro being hosted by my home region in June

 

I race almost every month. Usually end up in top twelve. Supercharger failed so I took all my carbon fiber parts off and dropped into street touring.

 

I find the most aggravating part in ST is no LSDs.

Most worth while mods to me (in ST):
1.Coil-overs
2.Rear sway
3.225/45R16 in front
4.205/50R16 in rear
5.Camber bolts/Plates
6.Roll-center adjusters
7.Lightest wheels

Regrets:
This season I went with 225s all around

Mods that Id like to due:
1.LSD 1.5
2.Clutch and fly

 

Lol I bet you would if you tried road course. We had many people switch over and never look back. Actually last month 2 friends from work tried road course with me and they were totally in shock of how much more fun it is.

Not trying to thread jack.

 

We have some events coming up at streets of willows soon. Gonna give this a whirl.

 

^^^ this guy… haha new its cool man.

 

Switch from a/xing to Road course? They are different disciplines; like drag racing, carting... some driving techniques transfer over but setups and strategies are completely different. I do both and love both for what they are.

To be a good Solo2 driver you have to have amazing car control, your biggest competition is your self. Being off line a couple of inches is big.

Running a TT or road course has its own challenges, dealing with traffic while trying to put in fast lap times. While trying to keep the car in one piece.

 

Here is last weeks run at Fontana. Feel free to leave comments to help my driving get better.