Tracking/AutoX Discussion
#242
i am working on some track/auto-x goodies for us GD fit guys. I currently have a full front splitter (mine is 3") and rear diffuser. I am testing these friday at Atlanta Motorsports Park. The splitter will have a small frame structure to tie it to the bottom of the radiator support as well as an option of lower cost stiff aluminum splitter support rods, or adjustable rods (really not needed). Will also be testing soon some breakaway rods as well for heavy impacts. The splitter will be made of either Polymetal or AlumaLite, your needs and what cost option you go with. Rear diffuser will be made of polymetal, and will be a full width diffuser or simple center diffuser.
Also in the works is 2 designs of bolt in harness bars, that can also incorporate x-bracing. I come from years as a team technician with 2 major road racing teams, a Corvette World Challenge Team and a Porsche Grand-Am Team. I now run a small division of a major road race and performance shop here in the Atlanta area, and my shop is located at Atlanta Motorsports Park and I get on track weekly. I also ran 3 years of Honda Challenge, I am an accredited NASA Instructor and instruct with other organizations as well. I wont sell a product that isnt going to function properly. Teaser pics coming soon. If any of you will be at Import Alliance Spring meet this weekend in Atlanta, I will be there, Blaze Metallic Orange GD3 on TE-37s with Yokohama Advan full slicks
Also in the works is 2 designs of bolt in harness bars, that can also incorporate x-bracing. I come from years as a team technician with 2 major road racing teams, a Corvette World Challenge Team and a Porsche Grand-Am Team. I now run a small division of a major road race and performance shop here in the Atlanta area, and my shop is located at Atlanta Motorsports Park and I get on track weekly. I also ran 3 years of Honda Challenge, I am an accredited NASA Instructor and instruct with other organizations as well. I wont sell a product that isnt going to function properly. Teaser pics coming soon. If any of you will be at Import Alliance Spring meet this weekend in Atlanta, I will be there, Blaze Metallic Orange GD3 on TE-37s with Yokohama Advan full slicks
#244
^^ Ditto. I'll definetly be waiting for those pictures as well. I've always wondered how a GD would look with a front splitter and legit, full width rear diffuser.
Question for those here in the thread: Has anyone had any experience with Carbotech's AX6 pads and/or the 912 or 913 drum shoes? I'm planning on ditching my Hawk Ceramic pads soon due to lack of initial bite and looking at a somewhat cheaper alternative to doing a GSR/SI or ITR rear disc swap.
[/bumped for interest]
Question for those here in the thread: Has anyone had any experience with Carbotech's AX6 pads and/or the 912 or 913 drum shoes? I'm planning on ditching my Hawk Ceramic pads soon due to lack of initial bite and looking at a somewhat cheaper alternative to doing a GSR/SI or ITR rear disc swap.
[/bumped for interest]
#246
Lol, go k swap and jump class, I have k20z3 and love it. As for pads I ran Carbotechs often on my old k20 ek coupe track car, but I prefer Hawk DTC now. I run DTC70 front, DTC60 rear with discs all around, type r in front. Great combination, DTC60 front and rear gives smoother feel.
#247
I have Hawk's Performance Ceramic pads at this time but I'm using them in conjunction with an EBC USR850 rotor, which is slotted, so my view on these pads may be a bit different from others who have used them with either dimpled/drilled or even solid rotors.
The initial/cold bite is mediocre for a "performance" pad in my honest opinion with the Performance Ceramic. Cold they seem to stop pretty much like the OEM pad (which is also ceramic) which is ok for driving around town or the neighborhood and have a slight groan during your first few stops as well... kinda sketchy when driving down the the freeway and you have to panic stop after doing 70 to 75 MPH a good 10 minutes (again, I have slotted rotors).
Now, whenever these pads are actually warm up a bit they do pretty well. Doesn't cause ABS to go ape shit under hard braking and bite isn't overly "grabby" so you should be able to modulate brakes fine at temp (unless you want to make the passenger kiss the dashboard ^.^). Its kind of like having a "factory pad" with a better bite at temperature... but for the price I was expecting a little bit more than what I got.
As far as brake fade, I haven't experienced any as of yet due to the slotted rotors keeping the brakes cold (along with using Motul RBF600 Dot 4 brake fluid) and I haven't autocrossed/tracked my GD... yet. Only "played" on a couple of deserted back roads with this current set up.
In addition to that, I had thought about going with Hawk's HP or the HP+ but I've heard mixed stories about their initial bite at a local road course (unless the person was reffering to the Performance Ceramics I'm running now) and haven't pulled the trigger on getting a set nor have I driven a car with them installed yet.
On the other hand, I've been hearing lots of good things about Carbotechs from the locals at the road course (and JCrim ran them on his GD so he may chime in) and happened to search through their catalog to find they offer a NICE selection of pads (8 compounds to be exact) but also offer 2 drum shoe different materials as well.
The initial/cold bite is mediocre for a "performance" pad in my honest opinion with the Performance Ceramic. Cold they seem to stop pretty much like the OEM pad (which is also ceramic) which is ok for driving around town or the neighborhood and have a slight groan during your first few stops as well... kinda sketchy when driving down the the freeway and you have to panic stop after doing 70 to 75 MPH a good 10 minutes (again, I have slotted rotors).
Now, whenever these pads are actually warm up a bit they do pretty well. Doesn't cause ABS to go ape shit under hard braking and bite isn't overly "grabby" so you should be able to modulate brakes fine at temp (unless you want to make the passenger kiss the dashboard ^.^). Its kind of like having a "factory pad" with a better bite at temperature... but for the price I was expecting a little bit more than what I got.
As far as brake fade, I haven't experienced any as of yet due to the slotted rotors keeping the brakes cold (along with using Motul RBF600 Dot 4 brake fluid) and I haven't autocrossed/tracked my GD... yet. Only "played" on a couple of deserted back roads with this current set up.
In addition to that, I had thought about going with Hawk's HP or the HP+ but I've heard mixed stories about their initial bite at a local road course (unless the person was reffering to the Performance Ceramics I'm running now) and haven't pulled the trigger on getting a set nor have I driven a car with them installed yet.
On the other hand, I've been hearing lots of good things about Carbotechs from the locals at the road course (and JCrim ran them on his GD so he may chime in) and happened to search through their catalog to find they offer a NICE selection of pads (8 compounds to be exact) but also offer 2 drum shoe different materials as well.
#248
Hootie: See there is a debate on my local AutoX board about Carbotech AX6 vs Hawk HP+... I WANT to do it all DD Commute, AutoX and occasional Track Days. We will see what people come down on...
JLOracing: See, I have a bit of a quandary. Currently I run the car in SCCA Solo class Street Touring FWD. The class is very new, and the "over dog" car has not yet been figured. Most people aren't even taking the class all that seriously since it would require developing one of a hand full of about $7-10K econo boxes... when there are SO many other classes that you can comfortably be IN a proven and nationally competitive car for that same initial investment. As it is, the Fit seems to be very competitive in STF, the real thing holding it back is the only 10 months of AutoX experience the loose nut behind the wheel has Still, I am within tenths of the regular hot shoes at the national events, and most of those guys were winning National level events while I was a fetus
IF I jump class with FI or K swap... I end up in Street Modified, or Street Modified FWD. This is an absolute play ground of unlimited wheel widths, mounting 275mm or bigger R-comps, near unlimited engine mods, and massive weight reduction. Sub 2000 pound CRX's with 200+whp 2.0 Vtec NA B sereies and full aero, Mid 2000 Mini Cooper S's with WHO KNOWS what under the hood, or 89-91 Civic Si Hatches with NO safety equipment to weigh them down with FI B or FI/NA K swaps.... You get the picture.
The class is predominantly controlled by the car's "MCW," Minimum Weight Calculation.
The Fit starts at 1750 lbs being a 4 door
You then add 125 lbs per liter
A FI car takes a 1.0L addition, so the Fit with a standard bore FI engine ends up with about a 313 pound L total and a TOTAL MCW of 2063 pounds. NOT impossible to get at least near, with significant class legal weight reductions (Like removing the rear seats ) and CF replacement panels.
A K series built and bored for low end torque usually ends up about 2.6 from my research, so 325 pound L total and a TOTAL MCW of 2075. With adding the additional weight of the K series drive train... I don't know if you can get down to that...
I know the FI system will add weight as well, but it only needs to get you up to the 225whp/tq range as in AutoX it is ALL short courses where you wont really ever exceed 70mph... and you tend to be in the mid to low RPM range. Maybe a <2.4L K series could be built for the same thing, but I don't know...
And then you have to deal with the Fit's....uh... "unique" suspension. In comparison to the older EF chassis with there fully independent rear...
So far the general consensus is that FI or K swap, the Fit will be TOO heavy, under suspension-ed (high COG to boot), and possibly under powered to compete in class...
I'm not sure I want to sink $10K+ trying to find out if It can play, when I can pickup one of the previously mentioned EF civics fully nationally prepped for it's Street Touring class, at around $5-7K and go A LOT faster than the Fit...
JLOracing: See, I have a bit of a quandary. Currently I run the car in SCCA Solo class Street Touring FWD. The class is very new, and the "over dog" car has not yet been figured. Most people aren't even taking the class all that seriously since it would require developing one of a hand full of about $7-10K econo boxes... when there are SO many other classes that you can comfortably be IN a proven and nationally competitive car for that same initial investment. As it is, the Fit seems to be very competitive in STF, the real thing holding it back is the only 10 months of AutoX experience the loose nut behind the wheel has Still, I am within tenths of the regular hot shoes at the national events, and most of those guys were winning National level events while I was a fetus
IF I jump class with FI or K swap... I end up in Street Modified, or Street Modified FWD. This is an absolute play ground of unlimited wheel widths, mounting 275mm or bigger R-comps, near unlimited engine mods, and massive weight reduction. Sub 2000 pound CRX's with 200+whp 2.0 Vtec NA B sereies and full aero, Mid 2000 Mini Cooper S's with WHO KNOWS what under the hood, or 89-91 Civic Si Hatches with NO safety equipment to weigh them down with FI B or FI/NA K swaps.... You get the picture.
The class is predominantly controlled by the car's "MCW," Minimum Weight Calculation.
The Fit starts at 1750 lbs being a 4 door
You then add 125 lbs per liter
A FI car takes a 1.0L addition, so the Fit with a standard bore FI engine ends up with about a 313 pound L total and a TOTAL MCW of 2063 pounds. NOT impossible to get at least near, with significant class legal weight reductions (Like removing the rear seats ) and CF replacement panels.
A K series built and bored for low end torque usually ends up about 2.6 from my research, so 325 pound L total and a TOTAL MCW of 2075. With adding the additional weight of the K series drive train... I don't know if you can get down to that...
I know the FI system will add weight as well, but it only needs to get you up to the 225whp/tq range as in AutoX it is ALL short courses where you wont really ever exceed 70mph... and you tend to be in the mid to low RPM range. Maybe a <2.4L K series could be built for the same thing, but I don't know...
And then you have to deal with the Fit's....uh... "unique" suspension. In comparison to the older EF chassis with there fully independent rear...
So far the general consensus is that FI or K swap, the Fit will be TOO heavy, under suspension-ed (high COG to boot), and possibly under powered to compete in class...
I'm not sure I want to sink $10K+ trying to find out if It can play, when I can pickup one of the previously mentioned EF civics fully nationally prepped for it's Street Touring class, at around $5-7K and go A LOT faster than the Fit...
#249
I'm setting up my GD to be a competitive autocross car that's streetable to make a 500+ mile trip in a day and not be completely rattled/battered to death at the end of said trip. You can kinda say that I have a bit of a Pro Touring influence at this time.
So far, nothing major has been done to my GD yet. Just done some creature comfort things such as the Zeta dead pedal (which helps during Auto-X to keep you upright during corning) and Clazzio seat covers. I've been waiting on my coilovers to get here so I can see what bushings for the new struts I'll be replacing (so it will be a plug and play install) as well as order some factory service bolts for camber adjustment and front sway bar end links as well then finally put these damn 205/50R15s I've had stashed away on.
In addition to that, I've been tossing the idea around of the changing my brake setup for a bit. As you know, I'm leaning towards keeping the stock caliper/drum set up and running Carbotech pads and shoes... Kicked around the idea of the Integra GSR/Civic SI rear discs since according to what I've found on a claimed Honda of "Japan" parts catalog it seems that the OEM rear discs for GDs have the same part numbers as the GSR and SI.. however, I'm not sure what to do about the proportioning valve though. Also thought about the S2k front caliper with an DC2R rear disc but tossed that idea out at this time.
Then there is the whole debate on power... Not sure if I want to do a few simple bolt ons and call it a day at this time, find a Kraftwerks supercharger, or dig around for a high rev N/A "kit" I've seen here on the forum somewhere that allows the L15A to rev up to 8.8k RPMs if memory serves me right. Haven't decided yet though, I already have an AFE short ram intake and a Spoon N1 laying around in the garage now. Just looking for a nice 4-2-1 header, possibly a resonated test pipe, a 60mm mid-pipe (preferably Spoon), and possibly/likely a(n updated) Weapon R intake manifold and see if I can crack 110 WHP with an auto .
#252
Hootie: Sound's like your going about the same route as me LOL.... I'm at 8k/10k and even on full soft dampening... It's a little tough on you after 400+ miles in a day LOL. The GF was a trooper though, came with me on BOTH back to back weekend trips down the I-5.
What coils did you go with?
The Zeta dead pedal was the FIRST mod I ever bolted on
If you decide to stick with a plan to AutoX the car, take some time to browse the rules and classing system as well as whatever local/regional classes may exist in your nearest SCCA chapter! The intake manifold alone would move you to a Street Prepared class, where as ANY FI or internals puts you into Street Mod. If you just focus on suspension and brakes though (the Fit's actual strong points ,) with a few basic bolt on's and 140+TW tires, you can stay in Street Touring!
Annoyingly, ST lets you add any header/exhaust you want, but you must retain a high flow cat mounted no more than 6" downstream of the OE cat's exit in the piping flow... I'm working on something...
Hate to hack it up But rules are rules
Still, shouldn't be too restrictive...
mike410b: That SUCKS! What's your local SCCA chapter? I'm spoiled in that there is one main chapter in SF, with two nearby sub chapters in Sacramento and Fresno. Then there are like 5+ clubs that also run AutoX's. If you have the $ and aren't concerned with a 2 hour drive or tire life, you can do an AutoX just about every weekend... This Sunday will be my 4th weekend in a row The GF has INSISTED we take May off My wallet does not mind!
apexanimal: I wouldn't mind a comparison like that either!
What coils did you go with?
The Zeta dead pedal was the FIRST mod I ever bolted on
If you decide to stick with a plan to AutoX the car, take some time to browse the rules and classing system as well as whatever local/regional classes may exist in your nearest SCCA chapter! The intake manifold alone would move you to a Street Prepared class, where as ANY FI or internals puts you into Street Mod. If you just focus on suspension and brakes though (the Fit's actual strong points ,) with a few basic bolt on's and 140+TW tires, you can stay in Street Touring!
Annoyingly, ST lets you add any header/exhaust you want, but you must retain a high flow cat mounted no more than 6" downstream of the OE cat's exit in the piping flow... I'm working on something...
Hate to hack it up But rules are rules
Still, shouldn't be too restrictive...
mike410b: That SUCKS! What's your local SCCA chapter? I'm spoiled in that there is one main chapter in SF, with two nearby sub chapters in Sacramento and Fresno. Then there are like 5+ clubs that also run AutoX's. If you have the $ and aren't concerned with a 2 hour drive or tire life, you can do an AutoX just about every weekend... This Sunday will be my 4th weekend in a row The GF has INSISTED we take May off My wallet does not mind!
apexanimal: I wouldn't mind a comparison like that either!
#253
I Just Did The Fastbrakes Rear Disc Converision. Worked Great For The Track This Passed Weekend. Just Got A Lap Timer As Well And Tried ItOut For The First Time It Was Nice And Definitely Made My Lap Times More Consistent. Was A Great WeekNd. Idk How To Get The Gopro Videos To Youtube. I Would Post Them up.
#255
mike410b: That SUCKS! What's your local SCCA chapter? I'm spoiled in that there is one main chapter in SF, with two nearby sub chapters in Sacramento and Fresno. Then there are like 5+ clubs that also run AutoX's. If you have the $ and aren't concerned with a 2 hour drive or tire life, you can do an AutoX just about every weekend... This Sunday will be my 4th weekend in a row The GF has INSISTED we take May off My wallet does not mind!
W/E car I get that replaces the Fit....it will be a track slut for sures.
#256
It Wasnt Bad. The Kit Comes With Rotors That Were Redrilled, Caliper Brackets, Hub Center Rings, And Rear Brake Hoses. Had To Get Ep3 E Brake Cables And Rsx Calipers.
#257
A Quick google and forum lurk also found me these guy's: 2013 Parking Lot Autocross Schedule | Madison Sports Car Club
Seems they have an event on 4/28 although no clue how close you are to
Columbus 151 Speedway...
A truly dedicated track car would be a luxury... Till then:
Even found this semi pro looking photo some one took at a local meet LOL:
Credit to Michael James Photography apparently
#258
Right now this would just be adding un wanted weight for me BUT if in future I end up with real HP...
#260
Totally understand that.... this is why I am spoiled... Mine is my pit crew and will be actually giving it a try herself in her own car this Sunday If I'm lucky she will be just as hooked as me