533 hp CR-Z!!!
#22
Okay my opinion has changed on this car, I'm not gonna trust motor trend, car & driver & all these other test magazines, because I don't think they are testing them thoroughly enough. I've heard from Cr-z forum & driving sports getting 50mpg. doesn't really beat the first insight, but I can say that's pretty good enough for an extra cylinder. Now back to Bizimoto, I gotta thank him for swaying my thoughts away from a K20 swap =)
#23
The K20 would be nice for the torque, but it completely screws up the cars balance and is much heavier.
Even a 60+mm turbo in most cases weighs less than 30lbs, plus maybe 8-12lbs for the charge piping/couplers/sensors and like 12-15lbs for the biggest conceivable the IC core you could put on a Fit.
From what I gather the K-swap with trans is nearly 175lbs more than a given turbo L15A. Alot of that looks like it is pretty far forward over the front axle and towards the passenger side which completely changes the cars handling characteristic and weight distribution.
Important to note that at some point Bisimoto decided they needed to sleeve the block which is usually a bit expensive, but perhaps they can help in that regard. User "Randull" on FitFreak would probably be able to look into this for you, he is a Bisimoto Engineer apparently. I think he is currently at SEMA but we have exchanged PMs and he seems like a nice guy and very helpful.
Even a 60+mm turbo in most cases weighs less than 30lbs, plus maybe 8-12lbs for the charge piping/couplers/sensors and like 12-15lbs for the biggest conceivable the IC core you could put on a Fit.
From what I gather the K-swap with trans is nearly 175lbs more than a given turbo L15A. Alot of that looks like it is pretty far forward over the front axle and towards the passenger side which completely changes the cars handling characteristic and weight distribution.
Important to note that at some point Bisimoto decided they needed to sleeve the block which is usually a bit expensive, but perhaps they can help in that regard. User "Randull" on FitFreak would probably be able to look into this for you, he is a Bisimoto Engineer apparently. I think he is currently at SEMA but we have exchanged PMs and he seems like a nice guy and very helpful.
#24
Though I suppose, that like j's racing, if you have the funding to do the k-swap you would probably have a plan for new suspension and chassis bracing to try and make it more neutral or even more power off oversteer.
#25
You're right, that might not be entirely fair, but it will make the car push through corners a bit more than it currently does.
Though I suppose, that like j's racing, if you have the funding to do the k-swap you would probably have a plan for new suspension and chassis bracing to try and make it more neutral or even more power off oversteer.
Though I suppose, that like j's racing, if you have the funding to do the k-swap you would probably have a plan for new suspension and chassis bracing to try and make it more neutral or even more power off oversteer.
but I agree on both points.
#26
damn... did anybody notice that the seats are buddyclub's (P1)? always considered BC to be a kinda cheap brand (lol maybe i am a crazy cat after all) but i don't think he would've cheaped out on the car :D
#28
Buddy Club makes good stuff.....for cheap prices....
#30
![](http://www.blogcdn.com/www.autoblog.com/media/2010/11/01-bisimoto.jpg)
Sounds about right... is that an estimate including labor, tax, shipping etc.?
From what I have found so far:
You can get an L15A block from a salvage yard for $500-700 (credit to Lyon for the many links provided, especially the one in WI I plan on going to pick up next week..)
A nice Mahle/Crower rotating assembly goes for ~1300 currently. Clevite or ACL can do bearings for Rod/Mains less than ~300.
Let says you REM/ISF/Cryo treat the crank for another $400-600 which is being generous, because the last time I used the Rocky Mountain Cryo guys, a full rotating assembly/valvetrain was $390 which came to about $450 with shipping and insurance.
Golden Eagle sleeves are going to run about $550 out the door from the set I found through google, and the guys I use at Advanced (Truck/Snow Plow repair and machine shop guys in Wheeling, not AMS in Chicago Heights) dinged me ~$50/hole to drill and drop some sleeves into a LSx block that I brought them, they offered to do the bore and hone for me as well for another $25, but fortunately I have my own torque plate and drill press.
A quarter block fill is like $30 in block hardener and a few weeks left to dry.
So far paying the high end puts us ~4230.
Lets say you drop ~$2500 on a fully built, cammed and extrude-honed/polished cylinder head, brings you to about ~6700 So lets call it ~7k if you have to have someone assemble it for you.
Really all we need for GEs (all prices are if you buy brand new and you are buying the more expensive ones available):
AEM FIC - $600
Loggable UEGO Gauge and Controller - $200
IAT - $50
MAP - $90-150 depending on your goals
EGT- $120-180
In line fuel pump - $90-220 depending on your goals
Adjustable fuel pressure regulator - $100-230
Charge piping/couplers - $150-400
Injectors - $300-1100 depending on your goals
Exhaust Mani adapter - $30 in materials.. labor depends on how good of friends you are with the machinist or what tools you have
Downpipe - $60 in flanges and materials plus labor (see above)
Intercoolers - $200-1000+ depending on your goals
BOV/Bypass - $40-200
Turbo - $300-1800 depending on your goals
Boomslang wiring harness - $220
So ~$2500- $5300 for a balls to the walls set up with everything new in box at full retail mark-up prices. This is neglecting free/salvaged parts.
AEM FIC - $600
Loggable UEGO Gauge and Controller - $200
IAT - $50
MAP - $90-150 depending on your goals
EGT- $120-180
In line fuel pump - $90-220 depending on your goals
Adjustable fuel pressure regulator - $100-230
Charge piping/couplers - $150-400
Injectors - $300-1100 depending on your goals
Exhaust Mani adapter - $30 in materials.. labor depends on how good of friends you are with the machinist or what tools you have
Downpipe - $60 in flanges and materials plus labor (see above)
Intercoolers - $200-1000+ depending on your goals
BOV/Bypass - $40-200
Turbo - $300-1800 depending on your goals
Boomslang wiring harness - $220
So ~$2500- $5300 for a balls to the walls set up with everything new in box at full retail mark-up prices. This is neglecting free/salvaged parts.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Tofuman
Fit Engine Modifications, Motor Swaps, ECU Tuning
18
09-08-2010 03:44 PM