I received my new (OEM) wheel bearing today, only set me back $100.

I am ready to go except for one little thing.

Am I likely to have to use a "wheel puller"? I can't figure out how
to attach the three legged puller that I have to the hub.

I can fabricate a piece of angle iron with holes drilled for two studs
and a center hole for a pushing nut and bolt. Should I plan on going
to this trouble, or can I expect the old hub/bearing to "pop off.

It is very interesting to listen to wheal bearings with an high gain
amp and microphone.

At work we have a big production unit , big as in 60' wheel base, that
one of the drivers suspected a wheel bearing was going bad. By ear you
couildn't really hear anything. So I used my electronic stethescope and

sure enough it was much noisier then the other bearings. We recorded
it
and used "gram to display the audio FFT. It works out that both of the
rear most bearing, left and right, have an odd repetative/periodic
"grinding" noise that is very visible on FFT. The bad one you can hear,

the other one you can see.

My hobby is shortwave radio and I use FFT to view signals you just
can't hear. I never thought there would be any practical use for this.

They took the truck in for service and we cut the old bearing open
and sure enough there was "scuffing" on both sets, and the noisiest
had the most scuffing. A new tool for predicting trouble well ahead
of time.

I have borrowed my wife's latop and I am hoping to see if I can do
some real time tests before I repair my car.

Terry

 

r2000swler@hotmail.com wrote in
news:1127949702.465807.144800@o13g2000cwo.googlegr oups.com:

> I received my new (OEM) wheel bearing today, only set me back $100.
>
> I am ready to go except for one little thing.
>
> Am I likely to have to use a "wheel puller"? I can't figure out how
> to attach the three legged puller that I have to the hub.


I don't know for sure as I've never done this myself, but a peruse of the
factory manual appears to say you will NOT need a puller to get the hub off
the car. It just slips off after removing the spindle nut.

You *may* have trouble undoing the spindle nut after unstaking it. An
impact wrench may be indispensable here.

By the way, it appears there's a grease seal behind there. Did you get a
new one?


>
> I can fabricate a piece of angle iron with holes drilled for two studs
> and a center hole for a pushing nut and bolt. Should I plan on going
> to this trouble, or can I expect the old hub/bearing to "pop off.


Ought to just slip off, by the looks of it.


>
> It is very interesting to listen to wheal bearings with an high gain
> amp and microphone.


What would be even more interesting is WAV or MP3 files of that noise. Is
it possible to make a recording and send it to me? I'd love to have that on
the FAQ, along with a description of what you did, and with what equipment.

Photos of the equipment would be awesome.

(BTW, the guy who was supposed to send pics of his ignition switch
replacement never did.)



>
> At work we have a big production unit , big as in 60' wheel base, that
> one of the drivers suspected a wheel bearing was going bad. By ear you
> couildn't really hear anything.


Then how'd he know?



Two more questions:
1) What's FFT?
2) What's "gram?



--
TeGGeR®

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

 

r2000swler@hotmail.com wrote:
> I received my new (OEM) wheel bearing today, only set me back $100.
>
> I am ready to go except for one little thing.
>
> Am I likely to have to use a "wheel puller"? I can't figure out how
> to attach the three legged puller that I have to the hub.

not necessary - just comes off by hand once the stub axle nut is off.

>
> I can fabricate a piece of angle iron with holes drilled for two studs
> and a center hole for a pushing nut and bolt. Should I plan on going
> to this trouble, or can I expect the old hub/bearing to "pop off.
>
> It is very interesting to listen to wheal bearings with an high gain
> amp and microphone.
>
> At work we have a big production unit , big as in 60' wheel base, that
> one of the drivers suspected a wheel bearing was going bad. By ear you
> couildn't really hear anything. So I used my electronic stethescope and
>
> sure enough it was much noisier then the other bearings. We recorded
> it
> and used "gram to display the audio FFT. It works out that both of the
> rear most bearing, left and right, have an odd repetative/periodic
> "grinding" noise that is very visible on FFT. The bad one you can hear,
>
> the other one you can see.
>
> My hobby is shortwave radio and I use FFT to view signals you just
> can't hear. I never thought there would be any practical use for this.

got any links? i'm interested for analyzing some accelerometer signals.

>
> They took the truck in for service and we cut the old bearing open
> and sure enough there was "scuffing" on both sets, and the noisiest
> had the most scuffing. A new tool for predicting trouble well ahead
> of time.

i just use a stick for stethoscope stuff like that. if you've seen the
movie "das boot", you'll see one of the diesel mechanics giving a demo
of how to do it.

>
> I have borrowed my wife's latop and I am hoping to see if I can do
> some real time tests before I repair my car.
>
> Terry
>

 

TeGGeR® wrote:

r2000sw...@hotmail.com wrote in
news:1127949702.465807.144800@o13g2000cwo.googlegr oups.com:

> I received my new (OEM) wheel bearing today, only set me back $100.

> I am ready to go except for one little thing.

> Am I likely to have to use a "wheel puller"? I can't figure out how
> to attach the three legged puller that I have to the hub.

I don't know for sure as I've never done this myself, but a peruse of
the
factory manual appears to say you will NOT need a puller to get the hub
off
the car. It just slips off after removing the spindle nut.

You *may* have trouble undoing the spindle nut after unstaking it. An
impact wrench may be indispensable here.

By the way, it appears there's a grease seal behind there. Did you get
a
new one?
[yes]
> I can fabricate a piece of angle iron with holes drilled for two studs
> and a center hole for a pushing nut and bolt. Should I plan on going
> to this trouble, or can I expect the old hub/bearing to "pop off.

Ought to just slip off, by the looks of it.

> It is very interesting to listen to wheal bearings with an high gain
> amp and microphone.

What would be even more interesting is WAV or MP3 files of that noise.
Is
it possible to make a recording and send it to me? I'd love to have
that on
the FAQ, along with a description of what you did, and with what
equipment.

Photos of the equipment would be awesome.
[I will take photos, but they are far from impressive.

An old ceramic phone cartridge, a minibox amp, I am going to see
if the phono cartridge and mic input will work, and a real ancient
Toshiba Satellite P1(MMX)233MHz laptop.

The program is very straight forward. To get an idea what a spectral
display
looks like, see:<http://www.visualizationsoftware.com/gram.html>
This version will run for 10 days in the demo mode.]

(BTW, the guy who was supposed to send pics of his ignition switch
replacement never did.)

> At work we have a big production unit , big as in 60' wheel base, that
> one of the drivers suspected a wheel bearing was going bad. By ear you
> couildn't really hear anything.

Then how'd he know?
[I swore he couold hear it on the highway at 65MPH. None of the other
drivers could. Perhaps he has better or more discriminating hearing?]

Two more questions:
1) What's FFT?
="fast Fourier transform"

2) What's "gram?
2)What's Gram?
[Gram is a, up to versio 5, freeware audio spectrogram program
that uses FFT to break the audio down into its "Frequency"
components. The link I have to the freeware vrsion is dead.
I have the freeware version that can email you.

I hope I haven't tossed the 6 files. I should still have the good one
and the clear bad ones. It will be Sat before I get a chance to root
and dig them out.

If I can find a good link I will send it.

There are any number of good free spectragram programs, I am partial
to Gram as it will work on my POJ P1/233MHZ laptop.]

TeGGeR®

 

jim beam wrote:


not necessary - just comes off by hand once the stub axle nut is off.


got any links? i'm interested for analyzing some accelerometer
signals.
[see:<http://www.visualizationsoftware.com/gram/gramdl.html>
the version now offered is commercial but will run for 10 days in demo
mode.
Ihave eh older freeware version and will see if I can find any active
links]

i just use a stick for stethoscope stuff like that. if you've seen the
movie "das boot", you'll see one of the diesel mechanics giving a demo
of how to do it.
[I tried that with mine and heard nothing. The same with the truck
bering.
More gain is, maybe, better.]

[Terry]

 

r2000swler@hotmail.com wrote in
news:1128015024.570924.266210@f14g2000cwb.googlegr oups.com:



Thanks for the update, but I must say, your quoting is horribly messed up.
Your message was almost impossible to read.

Are you posting through Google? Then read this:

"How can I automatically quote the previous message when I post a reply?

To quote the previous message in your reply, click the "show options" link
then the blue "Reply" link at the top of the post. The full text of the
previous message is included in the composition box and marked with angle
brackets (>) at the start of each line. You can place your comments between
lines of the quote or simply add your thoughts at the bottom."


--
TeGGeR®

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

 

jim beam wrote:

> got any links? i'm interested for analyzing some accelerometer signals.

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Dataq offers a @5$ data aquisition unit that includes hardware and
software.
See:
<http://www.dataq.com/194.htm>
I use a similar unit that they no longer offer to monitor and log
barometric presuure during thunderstorms and Tornado watches and
warnings. I am using a sensor that is similar to aaccelerometer.

For details see:
<http://content.honeywell.com/sensing/prodinfo/stainsteel/products/ab-hp.stm>

I have 2 0~6PSI units seperated by 200' and it is interesting to see a
preasure wave, not wind come through.

A big advantage of the Dataq unit is they operate very well on a less
then current PC. I use a P1/MMX 266MHz Toshiba Satellite laptop that
a friend was going to toss because it was "just too slow".

Terry

 

jim beam wrote:

> got any links? i'm interested for analyzing some accelerometer signals.

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
I forgot to mention the free Yahoo support group:
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/windaqdataacqsoftware/messages>
I choose to not receive emails.

Terry