CV joint boots
#1
07-19-2005, 07:49 PM
Guest
Posts: n/a
CV joint boots
I've got a split one on the driver side. The rubber
still looks good, but it split, I believe, because it
was stretched out a little too much when installed.
The CV joint is still good AFAIK. Would it be hard to
install one myself? I've never done it, but have the
usual tools and do lots of service work on my cars.
I've also heard of "split boot devices" that can
be wrapped around the axle and serve the purpose
of the original boot, after of course removing the
old boot. With these, the job is obviously much easier.
Anybody know about these things? Thanks a bunch.
--
OM
still looks good, but it split, I believe, because it
was stretched out a little too much when installed.
The CV joint is still good AFAIK. Would it be hard to
install one myself? I've never done it, but have the
usual tools and do lots of service work on my cars.
I've also heard of "split boot devices" that can
be wrapped around the axle and serve the purpose
of the original boot, after of course removing the
old boot. With these, the job is obviously much easier.
Anybody know about these things? Thanks a bunch.
--
OM
#2
07-19-2005, 11:26 PM
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CV joint boots
I have tried split boot replacements and they haven't worked out well. I
have given up on them.
I use only integral boots now.
There is a new technique which allows an integral boot to be installed
without dissembling everything
but it requires a special stretching tool to do it.
Boots can be replaced with relatively simple tools, and it is within the
reach of most fair
amateur mechanics.
have given up on them.
I use only integral boots now.
There is a new technique which allows an integral boot to be installed
without dissembling everything
but it requires a special stretching tool to do it.
Boots can be replaced with relatively simple tools, and it is within the
reach of most fair
amateur mechanics.
#3
07-19-2005, 11:26 PM
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CV joint boots
I've heard of others having problems with split boots, so I looked into
another method. I've changed a cracked boot with one of these tools:
http://tinyurl.com/bodpj
using universal stretch boots (you can't use oem type boots with this
tool):
http://tinyurl.com/avt8e
Easier than removing the driveshaft and disassembling, and probably will
last longer than a split boot.
In article <1121816668.267838.119540@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups .com>,
rev_otis_mcnatt@yahoo.com says...
> I've got a split one on the driver side. The rubber
> still looks good, but it split, I believe, because it
> was stretched out a little too much when installed.
>
> The CV joint is still good AFAIK. Would it be hard to
> install one myself? I've never done it, but have the
> usual tools and do lots of service work on my cars.
> I've also heard of "split boot devices" that can
> be wrapped around the axle and serve the purpose
> of the original boot, after of course removing the
> old boot. With these, the job is obviously much easier.
> Anybody know about these things? Thanks a bunch.
>
> --
> OM
>
>
another method. I've changed a cracked boot with one of these tools:
http://tinyurl.com/bodpj
using universal stretch boots (you can't use oem type boots with this
tool):
http://tinyurl.com/avt8e
Easier than removing the driveshaft and disassembling, and probably will
last longer than a split boot.
In article <1121816668.267838.119540@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups .com>,
rev_otis_mcnatt@yahoo.com says...
> I've got a split one on the driver side. The rubber
> still looks good, but it split, I believe, because it
> was stretched out a little too much when installed.
>
> The CV joint is still good AFAIK. Would it be hard to
> install one myself? I've never done it, but have the
> usual tools and do lots of service work on my cars.
> I've also heard of "split boot devices" that can
> be wrapped around the axle and serve the purpose
> of the original boot, after of course removing the
> old boot. With these, the job is obviously much easier.
> Anybody know about these things? Thanks a bunch.
>
> --
> OM
>
>
#4
07-19-2005, 11:26 PM
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CV joint boots
On 19 Jul 2005 16:44:28 -0700, rev_otis_mcnatt@yahoo.com wrote:
>I've got a split one on the driver side. The rubber
>still looks good, but it split, I believe, because it
>was stretched out a little too much when installed.
>
>The CV joint is still good AFAIK. Would it be hard to
>install one myself? I've never done it, but have the
>usual tools and do lots of service work on my cars.
>I've also heard of "split boot devices" that can
>be wrapped around the axle and serve the purpose
>of the original boot, after of course removing the
>old boot. With these, the job is obviously much easier.
>Anybody know about these things? Thanks a bunch.
Split boots are crap. They're easier to install, but they
don't seal adequately. Water is the first enemy; road grit, the
second.
Do it the hard (right) way. Buy a boot kit from a reputable
manufacturer and pull the axle to disassemble and install.
>I've got a split one on the driver side. The rubber
>still looks good, but it split, I believe, because it
>was stretched out a little too much when installed.
>
>The CV joint is still good AFAIK. Would it be hard to
>install one myself? I've never done it, but have the
>usual tools and do lots of service work on my cars.
>I've also heard of "split boot devices" that can
>be wrapped around the axle and serve the purpose
>of the original boot, after of course removing the
>old boot. With these, the job is obviously much easier.
>Anybody know about these things? Thanks a bunch.
Split boots are crap. They're easier to install, but they
don't seal adequately. Water is the first enemy; road grit, the
second.
Do it the hard (right) way. Buy a boot kit from a reputable
manufacturer and pull the axle to disassemble and install.
#5
07-20-2005, 02:24 AM
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CV joint boots
The first URL says "Installer will avoid removing axle and disassembling of
joint ". I assume it stretches the boot so it can slip over the end of the
shaft but I'm having trouble visualizing how you can change the boot without
removing the axle.
If someone can explain how this can be done on the car, please share.
Thanks,
Bobby
"Murphy" <vgy451NOSPAM@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:MPG.1d475dcb1d8b5786989735@news.telusplanet.n et...
> I've heard of others having problems with split boots, so I looked into
> another method. I've changed a cracked boot with one of these tools:
>
> http://tinyurl.com/bodpj
>
> using universal stretch boots (you can't use oem type boots with this
> tool):
>
> http://tinyurl.com/avt8e
>
> Easier than removing the driveshaft and disassembling, and probably will
> last longer than a split boot.
>
>
> In article <1121816668.267838.119540@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups .com>,
> rev_otis_mcnatt@yahoo.com says...
> > I've got a split one on the driver side. The rubber
> > still looks good, but it split, I believe, because it
> > was stretched out a little too much when installed.
> >
> > The CV joint is still good AFAIK. Would it be hard to
> > install one myself? I've never done it, but have the
> > usual tools and do lots of service work on my cars.
> > I've also heard of "split boot devices" that can
> > be wrapped around the axle and serve the purpose
> > of the original boot, after of course removing the
> > old boot. With these, the job is obviously much easier.
> > Anybody know about these things? Thanks a bunch.
> >
> > --
> > OM
> >
> >
joint ". I assume it stretches the boot so it can slip over the end of the
shaft but I'm having trouble visualizing how you can change the boot without
removing the axle.
If someone can explain how this can be done on the car, please share.
Thanks,
Bobby
"Murphy" <vgy451NOSPAM@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:MPG.1d475dcb1d8b5786989735@news.telusplanet.n et...
> I've heard of others having problems with split boots, so I looked into
> another method. I've changed a cracked boot with one of these tools:
>
> http://tinyurl.com/bodpj
>
> using universal stretch boots (you can't use oem type boots with this
> tool):
>
> http://tinyurl.com/avt8e
>
> Easier than removing the driveshaft and disassembling, and probably will
> last longer than a split boot.
>
>
> In article <1121816668.267838.119540@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups .com>,
> rev_otis_mcnatt@yahoo.com says...
> > I've got a split one on the driver side. The rubber
> > still looks good, but it split, I believe, because it
> > was stretched out a little too much when installed.
> >
> > The CV joint is still good AFAIK. Would it be hard to
> > install one myself? I've never done it, but have the
> > usual tools and do lots of service work on my cars.
> > I've also heard of "split boot devices" that can
> > be wrapped around the axle and serve the purpose
> > of the original boot, after of course removing the
> > old boot. With these, the job is obviously much easier.
> > Anybody know about these things? Thanks a bunch.
> >
> > --
> > OM
> >
> >
#6
07-20-2005, 02:24 AM
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CV joint boots
bob wrote:
> The first URL says "Installer will avoid removing axle and disassembling of
> joint ". I assume it stretches the boot so it can slip over the end of the
> shaft but I'm having trouble visualizing how you can change the boot without
> removing the axle.
>
> If someone can explain how this can be done on the car, please share.
>
> Thanks,
> Bobby
the whole point of a split boot is that you don't need to do anything
like take the shaft out - which "slipping over the end" would require -
it's split so you just leave the shaft in place, get rid of the old
boot, clean up & fit the new boot around the shaft, then glue up the
seam. some boots are held together with screws, but whatever the
seaming method, the principle is the same.
if you want to replace a boot "properly" with a non-split boot, you /do/
have to remove the axle and remove the end that seats in the
diff/transaxle. that allows both boots to be installed without any
difficult stretching problems.
>
>
>
> "Murphy" <vgy451NOSPAM@gmail.com> wrote in message
> news:MPG.1d475dcb1d8b5786989735@news.telusplanet.n et...
>
>>I've heard of others having problems with split boots, so I looked into
>>another method. I've changed a cracked boot with one of these tools:
>>
>>http://tinyurl.com/bodpj
>>
>>using universal stretch boots (you can't use oem type boots with this
>>tool):
>>
>>http://tinyurl.com/avt8e
>>
>>Easier than removing the driveshaft and disassembling, and probably will
>>last longer than a split boot.
>>
>>
>>In article <1121816668.267838.119540@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups .com>,
>>rev_otis_mcnatt@yahoo.com says...
>>
>>>I've got a split one on the driver side. The rubber
>>>still looks good, but it split, I believe, because it
>>>was stretched out a little too much when installed.
>>>
>>>The CV joint is still good AFAIK. Would it be hard to
>>>install one myself? I've never done it, but have the
>>>usual tools and do lots of service work on my cars.
>>>I've also heard of "split boot devices" that can
>>>be wrapped around the axle and serve the purpose
>>>of the original boot, after of course removing the
>>>old boot. With these, the job is obviously much easier.
>>>Anybody know about these things? Thanks a bunch.
>>>
>>>--
>>>OM
>>>
>>>
>
>
>
> The first URL says "Installer will avoid removing axle and disassembling of
> joint ". I assume it stretches the boot so it can slip over the end of the
> shaft but I'm having trouble visualizing how you can change the boot without
> removing the axle.
>
> If someone can explain how this can be done on the car, please share.
>
> Thanks,
> Bobby
the whole point of a split boot is that you don't need to do anything
like take the shaft out - which "slipping over the end" would require -
it's split so you just leave the shaft in place, get rid of the old
boot, clean up & fit the new boot around the shaft, then glue up the
seam. some boots are held together with screws, but whatever the
seaming method, the principle is the same.
if you want to replace a boot "properly" with a non-split boot, you /do/
have to remove the axle and remove the end that seats in the
diff/transaxle. that allows both boots to be installed without any
difficult stretching problems.
>
>
>
> "Murphy" <vgy451NOSPAM@gmail.com> wrote in message
> news:MPG.1d475dcb1d8b5786989735@news.telusplanet.n et...
>
>>I've heard of others having problems with split boots, so I looked into
>>another method. I've changed a cracked boot with one of these tools:
>>
>>http://tinyurl.com/bodpj
>>
>>using universal stretch boots (you can't use oem type boots with this
>>tool):
>>
>>http://tinyurl.com/avt8e
>>
>>Easier than removing the driveshaft and disassembling, and probably will
>>last longer than a split boot.
>>
>>
>>In article <1121816668.267838.119540@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups .com>,
>>rev_otis_mcnatt@yahoo.com says...
>>
>>>I've got a split one on the driver side. The rubber
>>>still looks good, but it split, I believe, because it
>>>was stretched out a little too much when installed.
>>>
>>>The CV joint is still good AFAIK. Would it be hard to
>>>install one myself? I've never done it, but have the
>>>usual tools and do lots of service work on my cars.
>>>I've also heard of "split boot devices" that can
>>>be wrapped around the axle and serve the purpose
>>>of the original boot, after of course removing the
>>>old boot. With these, the job is obviously much easier.
>>>Anybody know about these things? Thanks a bunch.
>>>
>>>--
>>>OM
>>>
>>>
>
>
>
#7
07-20-2005, 08:35 AM
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CV joint boots
Murphy wrote
> another method. I've changed a cracked boot with one of these tools:
> http://tinyurl.com/bodpj
what does this "tube looking thing with a black pointy cone" (in the picture) do?
> using universal stretch boots (you can't use oem type boots with this
> tool):
>
> http://tinyurl.com/avt8e
>
> Easier than removing the driveshaft and disassembling, and probably will
> last longer than a split boot.
isn't this another split boot? I mean, how can it be installed "without disassembly"?
the page has a model/name "CV Flex Boot Standard - Astoria 2000"
FB3000
Standard Flex Boot
Features & Benefits:
# Universal Flex Boot
# Fits 90% Of Domestic/Import Cars
# Replace without dissasembly
# Includes heavy duty band clamp
> another method. I've changed a cracked boot with one of these tools:
> http://tinyurl.com/bodpj
what does this "tube looking thing with a black pointy cone" (in the picture) do?
> using universal stretch boots (you can't use oem type boots with this
> tool):
>
> http://tinyurl.com/avt8e
>
> Easier than removing the driveshaft and disassembling, and probably will
> last longer than a split boot.
isn't this another split boot? I mean, how can it be installed "without disassembly"?
the page has a model/name "CV Flex Boot Standard - Astoria 2000"
FB3000
Standard Flex Boot
Features & Benefits:
# Universal Flex Boot
# Fits 90% Of Domestic/Import Cars
# Replace without dissasembly
# Includes heavy duty band clamp
#8
07-20-2005, 09:32 AM
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CV joint boots
so it sounds like this is a split boot but has some kind of jig to hold it
or something? I cannot tell from the web site. Last time I changed one,
the part I got said it could be slipped over the shaft. There was a cone
shaped tool available but I disassembled and installed as normal as I
discovered this after opening the box at home. Too lazy to go back to parts
store and look for tool. Anyway, when I saw the tool in the URL in the
original post, I assumed this was that cone-tool. Must be something else.
bb
******
"jim beam" <nospam@example.net> wrote in message
news:5JWdnczRsN__TkDfRVn-qg@speakeasy.net...
> bob wrote:
> > The first URL says "Installer will avoid removing axle and disassembling
of
> > joint ". I assume it stretches the boot so it can slip over the end of
the
> > shaft but I'm having trouble visualizing how you can change the boot
without
> > removing the axle.
> >
> > If someone can explain how this can be done on the car, please share.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Bobby
>
> the whole point of a split boot is that you don't need to do anything
> like take the shaft out - which "slipping over the end" would require -
> it's split so you just leave the shaft in place, get rid of the old
> boot, clean up & fit the new boot around the shaft, then glue up the
> seam. some boots are held together with screws, but whatever the
> seaming method, the principle is the same.
>
> if you want to replace a boot "properly" with a non-split boot, you /do/
> have to remove the axle and remove the end that seats in the
> diff/transaxle. that allows both boots to be installed without any
> difficult stretching problems.
>
>
> >
> >
> >
> > "Murphy" <vgy451NOSPAM@gmail.com> wrote in message
> > news:MPG.1d475dcb1d8b5786989735@news.telusplanet.n et...
> >
> >>I've heard of others having problems with split boots, so I looked into
> >>another method. I've changed a cracked boot with one of these tools:
> >>
> >>http://tinyurl.com/bodpj
> >>
> >>using universal stretch boots (you can't use oem type boots with this
> >>tool):
> >>
> >>http://tinyurl.com/avt8e
> >>
> >>Easier than removing the driveshaft and disassembling, and probably will
> >>last longer than a split boot.
> >>
> >>
> >>In article <1121816668.267838.119540@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups .com>,
> >>rev_otis_mcnatt@yahoo.com says...
> >>
> >>>I've got a split one on the driver side. The rubber
> >>>still looks good, but it split, I believe, because it
> >>>was stretched out a little too much when installed.
> >>>
> >>>The CV joint is still good AFAIK. Would it be hard to
> >>>install one myself? I've never done it, but have the
> >>>usual tools and do lots of service work on my cars.
> >>>I've also heard of "split boot devices" that can
> >>>be wrapped around the axle and serve the purpose
> >>>of the original boot, after of course removing the
> >>>old boot. With these, the job is obviously much easier.
> >>>Anybody know about these things? Thanks a bunch.
> >>>
> >>>--
> >>>OM
> >>>
> >>>
> >
> >
> >
>
or something? I cannot tell from the web site. Last time I changed one,
the part I got said it could be slipped over the shaft. There was a cone
shaped tool available but I disassembled and installed as normal as I
discovered this after opening the box at home. Too lazy to go back to parts
store and look for tool. Anyway, when I saw the tool in the URL in the
original post, I assumed this was that cone-tool. Must be something else.
bb
******
"jim beam" <nospam@example.net> wrote in message
news:5JWdnczRsN__TkDfRVn-qg@speakeasy.net...
> bob wrote:
> > The first URL says "Installer will avoid removing axle and disassembling
of
> > joint ". I assume it stretches the boot so it can slip over the end of
the
> > shaft but I'm having trouble visualizing how you can change the boot
without
> > removing the axle.
> >
> > If someone can explain how this can be done on the car, please share.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Bobby
>
> the whole point of a split boot is that you don't need to do anything
> like take the shaft out - which "slipping over the end" would require -
> it's split so you just leave the shaft in place, get rid of the old
> boot, clean up & fit the new boot around the shaft, then glue up the
> seam. some boots are held together with screws, but whatever the
> seaming method, the principle is the same.
>
> if you want to replace a boot "properly" with a non-split boot, you /do/
> have to remove the axle and remove the end that seats in the
> diff/transaxle. that allows both boots to be installed without any
> difficult stretching problems.
>
>
> >
> >
> >
> > "Murphy" <vgy451NOSPAM@gmail.com> wrote in message
> > news:MPG.1d475dcb1d8b5786989735@news.telusplanet.n et...
> >
> >>I've heard of others having problems with split boots, so I looked into
> >>another method. I've changed a cracked boot with one of these tools:
> >>
> >>http://tinyurl.com/bodpj
> >>
> >>using universal stretch boots (you can't use oem type boots with this
> >>tool):
> >>
> >>http://tinyurl.com/avt8e
> >>
> >>Easier than removing the driveshaft and disassembling, and probably will
> >>last longer than a split boot.
> >>
> >>
> >>In article <1121816668.267838.119540@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups .com>,
> >>rev_otis_mcnatt@yahoo.com says...
> >>
> >>>I've got a split one on the driver side. The rubber
> >>>still looks good, but it split, I believe, because it
> >>>was stretched out a little too much when installed.
> >>>
> >>>The CV joint is still good AFAIK. Would it be hard to
> >>>install one myself? I've never done it, but have the
> >>>usual tools and do lots of service work on my cars.
> >>>I've also heard of "split boot devices" that can
> >>>be wrapped around the axle and serve the purpose
> >>>of the original boot, after of course removing the
> >>>old boot. With these, the job is obviously much easier.
> >>>Anybody know about these things? Thanks a bunch.
> >>>
> >>>--
> >>>OM
> >>>
> >>>
> >
> >
> >
>
#9
07-20-2005, 10:30 AM
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CV joint boots
You can download step-by-step instructions on how to install here:
http://tinyurl.com/awbpe
You still have to remove the axle nut and separate the wheel hub from
the axle, but the axle can stay attached to the transmission.
In article <3k6salFt1sa1U1@individual.net>, ays@ananzi.co.za says...
> Murphy wrote
> > another method. I've changed a cracked boot with one of these tools:
> > http://tinyurl.com/bodpj
>
> what does this "tube looking thing with a black pointy cone" (in the picture) do?
>
> > using universal stretch boots (you can't use oem type boots with this
> > tool):
> >
> > http://tinyurl.com/avt8e
> >
> > Easier than removing the driveshaft and disassembling, and probably will
> > last longer than a split boot.
>
> isn't this another split boot? I mean, how can it be installed "without disassembly"?
> the page has a model/name "CV Flex Boot Standard - Astoria 2000"
>
> FB3000
> Standard Flex Boot
> Features & Benefits:
> # Universal Flex Boot
> # Fits 90% Of Domestic/Import Cars
> # Replace without dissasembly
> # Includes heavy duty band clamp
>
http://tinyurl.com/awbpe
You still have to remove the axle nut and separate the wheel hub from
the axle, but the axle can stay attached to the transmission.
In article <3k6salFt1sa1U1@individual.net>, ays@ananzi.co.za says...
> Murphy wrote
> > another method. I've changed a cracked boot with one of these tools:
> > http://tinyurl.com/bodpj
>
> what does this "tube looking thing with a black pointy cone" (in the picture) do?
>
> > using universal stretch boots (you can't use oem type boots with this
> > tool):
> >
> > http://tinyurl.com/avt8e
> >
> > Easier than removing the driveshaft and disassembling, and probably will
> > last longer than a split boot.
>
> isn't this another split boot? I mean, how can it be installed "without disassembly"?
> the page has a model/name "CV Flex Boot Standard - Astoria 2000"
>
> FB3000
> Standard Flex Boot
> Features & Benefits:
> # Universal Flex Boot
> # Fits 90% Of Domestic/Import Cars
> # Replace without dissasembly
> # Includes heavy duty band clamp
>
#10
07-20-2005, 10:30 AM
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CV joint boots
The boots I am talking about will actually expand to slip over the CV joing
itself, over the axle
splines, etc. They are not at all split boots.
You can load them onto an air powered 'piston' shaped tool that will expand
them like you
wouldnt believe. But, I imagine that without the tool, you would be just as
well off to take the
axle out and do it the old way.
I wouldn't waste my time on split boots, unless it was just to limp home
from a trip, and even
then they may not make it.
itself, over the axle
splines, etc. They are not at all split boots.
You can load them onto an air powered 'piston' shaped tool that will expand
them like you
wouldnt believe. But, I imagine that without the tool, you would be just as
well off to take the
axle out and do it the old way.
I wouldn't waste my time on split boots, unless it was just to limp home
from a trip, and even
then they may not make it.
#11
07-20-2005, 06:23 PM
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CV joint boots
Murphy wrote:
> I've heard of others having problems with split boots, so I looked into
> another method.
Too bad there's not a way to, say, staple and glue the two
split parts back together, assuming the rest of the boot
is good...
--
OM
#12
07-21-2005, 12:31 AM
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CV joint boots
This makes sense. I guess I confused "remove" with "disassemble". It would
be nice if you didn't have to disassemble the front suspension. On my
wife's mazda, on the passenger side, after taking the suspension apart and
sliding the spline out, removing the axle is just a tap but on the diriver's
side I guess there is an advantage of not removing the shaft as the
transmission fluid falls out.
Thanks for all of the dialog.
Bob
"Murphy" <vgy451NOSPAM@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:MPG.1d47f4eef73282cc989736@news.telusplanet.n et...
> You can download step-by-step instructions on how to install here:
>
> http://tinyurl.com/awbpe
>
> You still have to remove the axle nut and separate the wheel hub from
> the axle, but the axle can stay attached to the transmission.
>
> In article <3k6salFt1sa1U1@individual.net>, ays@ananzi.co.za says...
> > Murphy wrote
> > > another method. I've changed a cracked boot with one of these tools:
> > > http://tinyurl.com/bodpj
> >
> > what does this "tube looking thing with a black pointy cone" (in the
picture) do?
> >
> > > using universal stretch boots (you can't use oem type boots with this
> > > tool):
> > >
> > > http://tinyurl.com/avt8e
> > >
> > > Easier than removing the driveshaft and disassembling, and probably
will
> > > last longer than a split boot.
> >
> > isn't this another split boot? I mean, how can it be installed "without
disassembly"?
> > the page has a model/name "CV Flex Boot Standard - Astoria 2000"
> >
> > FB3000
> > Standard Flex Boot
> > Features & Benefits:
> > # Universal Flex Boot
> > # Fits 90% Of Domestic/Import Cars
> > # Replace without dissasembly
> > # Includes heavy duty band clamp
> >
be nice if you didn't have to disassemble the front suspension. On my
wife's mazda, on the passenger side, after taking the suspension apart and
sliding the spline out, removing the axle is just a tap but on the diriver's
side I guess there is an advantage of not removing the shaft as the
transmission fluid falls out.
Thanks for all of the dialog.
Bob
"Murphy" <vgy451NOSPAM@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:MPG.1d47f4eef73282cc989736@news.telusplanet.n et...
> You can download step-by-step instructions on how to install here:
>
> http://tinyurl.com/awbpe
>
> You still have to remove the axle nut and separate the wheel hub from
> the axle, but the axle can stay attached to the transmission.
>
> In article <3k6salFt1sa1U1@individual.net>, ays@ananzi.co.za says...
> > Murphy wrote
> > > another method. I've changed a cracked boot with one of these tools:
> > > http://tinyurl.com/bodpj
> >
> > what does this "tube looking thing with a black pointy cone" (in the
picture) do?
> >
> > > using universal stretch boots (you can't use oem type boots with this
> > > tool):
> > >
> > > http://tinyurl.com/avt8e
> > >
> > > Easier than removing the driveshaft and disassembling, and probably
will
> > > last longer than a split boot.
> >
> > isn't this another split boot? I mean, how can it be installed "without
disassembly"?
> > the page has a model/name "CV Flex Boot Standard - Astoria 2000"
> >
> > FB3000
> > Standard Flex Boot
> > Features & Benefits:
> > # Universal Flex Boot
> > # Fits 90% Of Domestic/Import Cars
> > # Replace without dissasembly
> > # Includes heavy duty band clamp
> >
#13
07-21-2005, 01:41 AM
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CV joint boots
rev_otis_mcnatt@yahoo.com wrote:
>
> Murphy wrote:
>
>>I've heard of others having problems with split boots, so I looked into
>>another method.
>
>
> Too bad there's not a way to, say, staple and glue the two
> split parts back together, assuming the rest of the boot
> is good...
>
> --
> OM
>
you can try loctite 404. rubber would have to be ultra clean though.
>
> Murphy wrote:
>
>>I've heard of others having problems with split boots, so I looked into
>>another method.
>
>
> Too bad there's not a way to, say, staple and glue the two
> split parts back together, assuming the rest of the boot
> is good...
>
> --
> OM
>
you can try loctite 404. rubber would have to be ultra clean though.
#14
07-21-2005, 04:30 AM
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CV joint boots
"Ayre Schnell" <ays@ananzi.co.za> wrote in message news:3k6salFt1sa1U1@individual.net...
> what does this "tube looking thing with a black pointy cone" (in the picture) do?
"With lubricant. Place the (black pointy cone) on the ground and center the
boot over the cone. Holding the boot to the installer use a firm and fluent
motion to press the boot to the base of the cone.
Place the installer & cone over the joint. Drive the boot over the joint by striking the
base of the installer grease the joint. And stretch don't over the joint until a tight fit
is formed. "
Read more http://www.jonnesway.com.tw/ar060023.htm
> what does this "tube looking thing with a black pointy cone" (in the picture) do?
"With lubricant. Place the (black pointy cone) on the ground and center the
boot over the cone. Holding the boot to the installer use a firm and fluent
motion to press the boot to the base of the cone.
Place the installer & cone over the joint. Drive the boot over the joint by striking the
base of the installer grease the joint. And stretch don't over the joint until a tight fit
is formed. "
Read more http://www.jonnesway.com.tw/ar060023.htm
#15
07-21-2005, 12:30 PM
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CV joint boots
In article <x2jDe.485$LF.416@newssvr27.news.prodigy.net>, HLS@nospam.nix
says...
>There is a new technique which allows an integral boot to be installed
>without dissembling everything
>but it requires a special stretching tool to do it.
It sounds like a good idea, but it really isn't. If you can't clean the joint
before you put the new boot on, it is just a matter of time before it will
fail. You need to clean the joint before putting the new boot on.
-------------
Alex
says...
>There is a new technique which allows an integral boot to be installed
>without dissembling everything
>but it requires a special stretching tool to do it.
It sounds like a good idea, but it really isn't. If you can't clean the joint
before you put the new boot on, it is just a matter of time before it will
fail. You need to clean the joint before putting the new boot on.
-------------
Alex
#16
07-21-2005, 02:30 PM
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CV joint boots
"Alex Rodriguez" <adr5@columbia.edu> wrote in message
news:dbog7e$plq$4@newsmaster.cc.columbia.edu...
> In article <x2jDe.485$LF.416@newssvr27.news.prodigy.net>, HLS@nospam.nix
> says...
>
> >There is a new technique which allows an integral boot to be installed
> >without dissembling everything
> >but it requires a special stretching tool to do it.
>
> It sounds like a good idea, but it really isn't. If you can't clean the
joint
> before you put the new boot on, it is just a matter of time before it will
> fail. You need to clean the joint before putting the new boot on.
> -------------
> Alex
Of course, if the boot is compromised and there is water, salt, dirt inside,
the joint should be
cleaned and repacked. You might be able to get it clean enough using a
solvent wash without
opening the joint, but getting new grease into the inner bearings might be a
problem.
Some people actually identify and replace deteriorating boots before they go
completely to hell.
The first boot I replaced, I inadvertantly allowed the joint to
separate(even after being warned and
taking considerable care) , and needle bearings and balls went everywhere.
I finally managed to find
them all, clean everything meticulously, and packed everything back into
place. This was a real
learning experience which I do not care to repeat.
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