my accord idles at 300 then dies at lights it did this before then i
changed my air filter which worked for a month The filter appears lightly
burnt but is not clogged. Please help

 

Does it happen only after the car is warmed up?

This is one symptom of a bad distributor coil.

Which die around every five years, I'd say.

"baccus" <baucuschic@yahoo.com> wrote
> my accord idles at 300 then dies at lights it did this before then i
> changed my air filter which worked for a month The filter appears lightly
> burnt but is not clogged. Please help

What's burning the filter? That's odd.

 

i dont know really the last one was terribly burnt now this one is lightly
burnt

 

it seems to be fuel related .The idle slowly drops to nothing. I have been
double pedeling today which worked.

 

Do you have a carb or fuel injection (only the LXi has fuel injection)?


"baccus" <baucuschic@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:097d8939c927efd3037ba5b69bb65bfe@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com...
> my accord idles at 300 then dies at lights it did this before then i
> changed my air filter which worked for a month The filter appears lightly
> burnt but is not clogged. Please help
>

 

Well, that is the way a dying coil will cut out the car: The driver watches
as the RPM goes lower and lower until the car stalls...

Of course I agree it could be other things, but a failing coil is a common
cause of such a symptom.

"baccus" <baucuschic@yahoo.com> wrote
> it seems to be fuel related .The idle slowly drops to nothing. I have been
> double pedeling today which worked.
>

 

baccus wrote:
> my accord idles at 300 then dies at lights it did this before then i
> changed my air filter which worked for a month The filter appears
lightly
> burnt but is not clogged. Please help

When's the last time the fuel filter was changed?

 

The fuel filter hasnt been changed in a year I'd say, but I have only owned
the car for 6 months. it is carborated Does anyone know how much it costs
to have the coil replaced?

 

yes today it was fine until the car warmed up and then ided at a 1000 while
in N at lights and 1500 going 45mph

 

Uh oh... I just checked the drawings for distributor parts for an 87 Accord
at www.hondaautomotiveparts.com , and there is no coil listed. Different
design for carbureted vehicles? I'm in over my head at the moment. Sorry.

The fuel filter is due about every two years. It's cheaper than doing the
coil and has to be replaced periodically anyway, so you might want to start
with it.

"baccus" <baucuschic@yahoo.com> wrote
> The fuel filter hasnt been changed in a year I'd say, but I have only
owned
> the car for 6 months. it is carborated Does anyone know how much it costs
> to have the coil replaced?
>

 

ok ill start there thanks for trying to help ill let you know if that works

 

A few months ago my 88 Accord had a problem where it would just
intermittently die at idle, whether it was moving in stop and go traffic
or at a light. My problem turned out to be a bad connection (ground)
between the primary fuel cutoff relay and the back of the carb. I fixed
it by simply unbolting the one bolt and scratching the surface with
sandpaper. No more problem after that. Oxidation had set in over 17
years, making for a poor ground.

dan

baccus wrote:
> my accord idles at 300 then dies at lights it did this before then i
> changed my air filter which worked for a month The filter appears lightly
> burnt but is not clogged. Please help
>

 

Get a good carb cleaner and give it a good spray.

 

baccus wrote:
> The fuel filter hasnt been changed in a year I'd say, but I have only
owned
> the car for 6 months. it is carborated Does anyone know how much it
costs
> to have the coil replaced?

Reason I ask is because my '94 Grand Marquis was also idling lumpy and
dying at stop lights. Changed the fuel filter and poof, problem was
gone. It's a cheap start. If you had the car for 6 mo., it might've
been years since the last change.

 

Hey, just wanted to point out to you that after useing a whole can of carb
cleaner and cleaing every part of it, if it still runs and dies you
mighthave to take off the whole carb and check the seal there is a funny
shaped O-ring type and at the bottom of the EFE heater which is flat and
looks like blackcard board. replaceing thses could save you a few bucks and
probabaly fix your carb problem . Other wise get a rebuild kit(30$-50$).
and pay attention to your hoses <Make a quick diagram before you remove
them if you thinks you wont remember> This will prboably take you like a
day or so and dismantle the carb on a bright surface. you could accidently
forget to put a paart back on if you dont see it.