"Bubba" <wdg@[204.52.135.1]> wrote in message
news:a8bp41p7tkhj9mgf0g8qg5q70v2e7arll3@4ax.com...
> In article <yfKdnf8S6Jr7N9HfRVn-sg@sedona.net> "Michael Pardee"
> By and large all extended warranties are a poor investment. First of all
> they are not a "warranty" rather they are merely a mechanical breakdown
> insurance policy. Most have a per-occurrence deductible and all of them
> have "weasel clauses" to disqualify your claim and get out of paying. At a
> car dealership the "extended warranty" contract is the single most
> profitable item (percentage wise) in their inventory. Typically 100%
> markup from cost. Statistically you are unlikely to ever have enough
> qualifying claims to just break even with the policy's high up-front cost.
> Also contrary to dealer claims, having a valid/transferable extended
> warranty does -NOT- increase the wholesale trade-in value of your car.
>
Exactly so. "Extended warranty" is always a misnomer, just as "road hazard
warranty" is for tires. A true warranty is a period during which defects are
not expected, so the manufacturer agrees to pay for failures within the
stated limitations. As with all insurance the question is whether the buyer
can afford the most catastrophic events the insurance covers. It goes
without saying the average insurance buyer will pay more than they will
benefit - that's how insurance works.

Mike

 

Michael Pardee wrote:
> Marty showed them the receipts for the
> oil but they said it didn't prove the oil went into the truck, or if
so,
> when.

Well, that would apply to dealer receipts as well. If you change your
oil at the dealer, and you got a receipt saying that they changed your
oil, that doesn't prove that they actually did.

Therefore, changing oil yourself and keeping receipts is as valid as
having them done at the dealership.

 

Leon Kiriliuk wrote:
> I was shocked to find out that type 4 is nothing more than a 3 hour
> inspection! All they change is the oil, oil filter, air filter, and
if
> applicable, air purifier filter. For 400$ they don't even replace the
spark
> plugs!!! WHAT A RIP OFF!

Yup. At least you asked them what you're getting for $400. Most people
I know just take it to the dealer blindly and let them do all kinds of
unnecessary servicing. The parts at a dealership are marked far above
list price (which is far above invoice).

 

On 3/31/05 11:55 PM, in article
1112334927.426579.121150@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups. com, "Auto Inspector"
<auto_inspector@yahoo.com> wrote:

> @90K, you need to replace the timing belt, and you better do it because
> if it breaks you will not only enjoy a tow truck ride but also it may
> cause damage to valves and possibly head and pistons. Now, if the
> dealer quoted $400 for this work, it's very reasonable, otherwise they
> are crooks.
> www.anti-lemon.com
>

I believe the timing belt interval on this car is 105,000 miles for normal
usage and 60,000 for severe.

 

I have a folder with receipts for the oil, filter, etc. I keep very good
records. This is ALL that is required by law.

G-Man


"Pepper" <jdoe@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:g62dnQO61cPdGNHfRVn-tA@rogers.com...
> Just wondering, if you do all the maintenance work yourself, how do you
> prove to Honda that the vehicle was maintained if you have a warranty
> issue?
> "G-Man" <g_foreman@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:114o9jk13av8m8d@news.supernews.com...
>>I don't take it to the dealer unless it's Warranty work. Sorry, just too
>>much markup. I have a trusted mechanic at AAMCO who was a Honda mechanic
>>for years. Most of the maintenance I do myself, but Timing Belt and Water
>>Pump I leave up to them.
>>
>> If you have Pollen Filters, they are a pain, but I can send you the
>> instructions if you need it.
>>
>> G-Man
>>
>>
>> "Leon Kiriliuk" <leonki@gmail.dot.com> wrote in message
>> news:p-2dnU0vaOs5btbfRVn-og@rogers.com...
>>> I drive a 2001 4cyl Honda Accord sedan. I just hit 96,000km, and went to
>>> the dealership to find out what needs to be done. I was told my car
>>> needs a type 4 maintenance (~400$) + trans fluid change (more $$$ on top
>>> of it).
>>>
>>> I was shocked to find out that type 4 is nothing more than a 3 hour
>>> inspection! All they change is the oil, oil filter, air filter, and if
>>> applicable, air purifier filter. For 400$ they don't even replace the
>>> spark plugs!!! WHAT A RIP OFF!
>>>
>>> So what am I to do? I had my brakes serviced ~20K ago, and I just put on
>>> a set of new tires. Do you folks think that if I just get the trans
>>> fluid changed and oil changed, + buy the air filter and replace it
>>> myself would be good enough for a 96K service ??
>>>
>>> What would you do if you were in my shoes ?
>>>
>>> Thanks.
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
>

 

Auto Inspector wrote:

> @90K, you need to replace the timing belt, and you better do it because
> if it breaks you will not only enjoy a tow truck ride but also it may
> cause damage to valves and possibly head and pistons. Now, if the
> dealer quoted $400 for this work, it's very reasonable, otherwise they
> are crooks.
> www.anti-lemon.com

The OP said 96,000 *KM*, not miles. He still has another 50,000 KM (or 2
years) before it's time to replace the timing belt.

 

What you are saying is partially true. I've been doing mechanical
inspections primarily for extended warranty for almost 20 years, and I
can tell you that ANY aftermarket warranty is likely to be money thrown
away. OEM warranty is different but there are many little things that
need to be taken into consideration. For a basic well built (!!!) car
like, let's say a Civic, warranty is almost definitely a waste but for
an upscale luxury vehicle stuffed with hi-tech expensive extras it may
make sense since 1. a possibility of breakdown increases with
complexity and 2. almost any repair will cost you as much as the
warranty itself or more.
Visit these pages for some info on extended warranty, maintenance,
etc.:
www.anti-lemon.com/faq.html
www.anti-lemon.com/lookatthat.html
www.anti-lemon.com/misconceptions.html

 

Not necessarily so. Manufacturer's (NOT aftermarket) warranty may not
even be after profit nearly as much as geico and suchlike since the
company wants you to buy another vehcile from them, and unless you are
satisfied - I am not talking about weird breed like
gm/chrysler/ford/jaguar/rover/etc. owners - you will not do that. And
let's face it, they make money on new car sales, and dealers - on
trade-ins AND new sales so a few bucks off of warranty is less an issue
for them. Also, they - manufacturers - pay a fraction of what AM
extended warranty would for parts and labor so they can afford to cover
more and be more generous overall.

 

@90K, you need to replace the timing belt, and you better do it because
if it breaks you will not only enjoy a tow truck ride but also it may
cause damage to valves and possibly head and pistons. Now, if the
dealer quoted $400 for this work, it's very reasonable, otherwise they
are crooks.
www.anti-lemon.com

 

You don't have to prove anything unlike what crooked dealers want you
to beleive. If you have, let's say, an engine problem, and it - the
engine - is clean inside, they cannot possibly blame you. On the other
hand, if a customer - and I've seen this many times - provides a bunch
of receipts, and the engine is sludged up, I -as an independent
inspector - verify lack of maintenance, and warranty work is denied.
Leo Russ
Independent Auto Inspector
www.anti-lemon.com

 

"Leon Kiriliuk" <leonki@gmail.dot.com> wrote in message
news:p-2dnU0vaOs5btbfRVn-og@rogers.com...
> I drive a 2001 4cyl Honda Accord sedan. I just hit 96,000km, and went to
> the dealership to find out what needs to be done. I was told my car needs
> a type 4 maintenance (~400$) + trans fluid change (more $$$ on top of it).
>
> I was shocked to find out that type 4 is nothing more than a 3 hour
> inspection! All they change is the oil, oil filter, air filter, and if
> applicable, air purifier filter. For 400$ they don't even replace the
> spark plugs!!! WHAT A RIP OFF!
>
> So what am I to do? I had my brakes serviced ~20K ago, and I just put on a
> set of new tires. Do you folks think that if I just get the trans fluid
> changed and oil changed, + buy the air filter and replace it myself would
> be good enough for a 96K service ??
>
> What would you do if you were in my shoes ?

I'd do exactly what you suggested, in fact I do the exact same thing when it
is time for any of the Honda service (if I've already done the other
pertinent parts). Air filtres are not expensive and the transmission fluid
change is around $50.00 (if my memory serves me correctly).

Brian

 

In article <yfKdnf8S6Jr7N9HfRVn-sg@sedona.net> "Michael Pardee"
<michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> writes:

>"Pepper" <jdoe@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>news:g62dnQO61cPdGNHfRVn-tA@rogers.com...
>> Just wondering, if you do all the maintenance work yourself, how do you
>> prove to Honda that the vehicle was maintained if you have a warranty
>> issue?

>That's an important question. A friend of mine had a Toyota pickup that he
>took to the dealer just before the warranty was up because the engine smoked
>at start-up. The dealer's mechanic said the engine was varnished because of
>inadequate attention to oil changes. Marty showed them the receipts for the
>oil but they said it didn't prove the oil went into the truck, or if so,
>when.

>Logging the service in the vehicle record probably will get you farther, but
>the same thing can happen. For my part, I do the maintenance and don't buy
>extended warranties. Others may feel differently.

By and large all extended warranties are a poor investment. First of all
they are not a "warranty" rather they are merely a mechanical breakdown
insurance policy. Most have a per-occurrence deductible and all of them
have "weasel clauses" to disqualify your claim and get out of paying. At a
car dealership the "extended warranty" contract is the single most
profitable item (percentage wise) in their inventory. Typically 100%
markup from cost. Statistically you are unlikely to ever have enough
qualifying claims to just break even with the policy's high up-front cost.
Also contrary to dealer claims, having a valid/transferable extended
warranty does -NOT- increase the wholesale trade-in value of your car.

 

"Pepper" <jdoe@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:g62dnQO61cPdGNHfRVn-tA@rogers.com...
> Just wondering, if you do all the maintenance work yourself, how do you
> prove to Honda that the vehicle was maintained if you have a warranty
> issue?

That's an important question. A friend of mine had a Toyota pickup that he
took to the dealer just before the warranty was up because the engine smoked
at start-up. The dealer's mechanic said the engine was varnished because of
inadequate attention to oil changes. Marty showed them the receipts for the
oil but they said it didn't prove the oil went into the truck, or if so,
when.

Logging the service in the vehicle record probably will get you farther, but
the same thing can happen. For my part, I do the maintenance and don't buy
extended warranties. Others may feel differently.

Mike

 

If you do it yourself and want to ensure you've done the proper maintenance,
or if you want to know what the dealer gets paid for, check the following
maintenance schedule of recommended service directly from Honda. This
schedule is for "normal service". There is a more intensive schedule for
"severe service". If you want to know what that is just email me or request
it here in the NG.
I'm not advocating you bring it to the dealer, or that they are a bargain,
but most people don't know the extent of what really is recommended and what
your dealer does or should do. Also, most people don't realize the value of
preventive maintenance which can catch problems before they become failures
and leave you stranded on the side of the road. Most independents aren't as
complete either. If you bring it anywhere to get done, make sure this is
what they do.
I hope this helps.
Howard
o Replace engine oil. -Capacity with filter change: 4.3 l (4.5 US qt, 3.8
Imp qt)

o Rotate tires. Follow the pattern shown in the Owner's Manual -Check tire
inflation and condition.

o Replace engine oil filter.

o Inspect front and rear brakes.

a.. Check pads and discs for wear (thickness), damage, and cracks.

b.. Check calipers for damage, leaks, and tightness of mount bolts.

c.. Check brake lining for cracking, glazing, wear, and contamination.

d.. Check wheel cylinders for leaks.

o Check parking brake adjustment. Should be fully applied within 6 to 9
clicks (disc brake) or within 4 to 7 clicks (drum brake).

o Inspect tie rod ends, steering gearbox, and rack boots for damage and
leaking grease and fluid.

a.. Check steering linkage for looseness.

b.. Check boots for damage and leaking grease.

o Inspect suspension components.

a.. Check bolts for tightness.

b.. Check condition of ball joint boots for deterioration and damage.

o Inspect driveshaft boots. Check boots for cracks and boot bands for
tightness.

o Inspect brake hoses and lines (including ABS). -Check the master cylinder,
proportioning control valve, and ABS modulator for damage and leakage.

o Check all fluid levels and condition of fluids; check for leaks. If
necessary, add Honda ATF-Z1 or MTF, engine coolant, brake fluid, and
windshield washer fluid.

o Inspect cooling system hoses and connections.

a.. Check for damage, leaks, and deterioration.

b.. Check for proper fan operation.

o Inspect exhaust system* . Check catalytic converter heat shield, exhaust
pipe, and muffler for damage, leaks, and tightness.

o Inspect fuel lines and connections*. Check for loose connections, cracks
and deterioration; retighten loose connections and replace damaged parts.

o Replace air cleaner element.

o Inspect and adjust drive belts.

a.. Look for cracks and damage, then check belt deflection by pushing on
it (about 22 lbs) midway between the pulleys.

- Alternator belt: 10.5-12.5 mm (0.41-0.49 in.)

- P/S pump belt: 13.0-16.0 mm (0.51-0.63 in.)

- A/C compressor belt: 7.0-9.0 mm (0.28-0.35 in)

o Replace the dust and pollen filter.

a.. Replace it twice as often (at 15,000 mile interval) if the vehicle is
driven mostly in urban areas that have high concentrations of soot in the
air from industry and diesel-powered vehicles.

b.. Replace it whenever airflow from the climate control system is less
than normal.

"Leon Kiriliuk" <leonki@gmail.dot.com> wrote in message
news:p-2dnU0vaOs5btbfRVn-og@rogers.com...
> I drive a 2001 4cyl Honda Accord sedan. I just hit 96,000km, and went to
> the dealership to find out what needs to be done. I was told my car needs
a
> type 4 maintenance (~400$) + trans fluid change (more $$$ on top of it).
>
> I was shocked to find out that type 4 is nothing more than a 3 hour
> inspection! All they change is the oil, oil filter, air filter, and if
> applicable, air purifier filter. For 400$ they don't even replace the
spark
> plugs!!! WHAT A RIP OFF!
>
> So what am I to do? I had my brakes serviced ~20K ago, and I just put on a
> set of new tires. Do you folks think that if I just get the trans fluid
> changed and oil changed, + buy the air filter and replace it myself would
be
> good enough for a 96K service ??
>
> What would you do if you were in my shoes ?
>
> Thanks.
>
>

 

Just wondering, if you do all the maintenance work yourself, how do you
prove to Honda that the vehicle was maintained if you have a warranty issue?
"G-Man" <g_foreman@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:114o9jk13av8m8d@news.supernews.com...
>I don't take it to the dealer unless it's Warranty work. Sorry, just too
>much markup. I have a trusted mechanic at AAMCO who was a Honda mechanic
>for years. Most of the maintenance I do myself, but Timing Belt and Water
>Pump I leave up to them.
>
> If you have Pollen Filters, they are a pain, but I can send you the
> instructions if you need it.
>
> G-Man
>
>
> "Leon Kiriliuk" <leonki@gmail.dot.com> wrote in message
> news:p-2dnU0vaOs5btbfRVn-og@rogers.com...
>> I drive a 2001 4cyl Honda Accord sedan. I just hit 96,000km, and went to
>> the dealership to find out what needs to be done. I was told my car needs
>> a type 4 maintenance (~400$) + trans fluid change (more $$$ on top of
>> it).
>>
>> I was shocked to find out that type 4 is nothing more than a 3 hour
>> inspection! All they change is the oil, oil filter, air filter, and if
>> applicable, air purifier filter. For 400$ they don't even replace the
>> spark plugs!!! WHAT A RIP OFF!
>>
>> So what am I to do? I had my brakes serviced ~20K ago, and I just put on
>> a set of new tires. Do you folks think that if I just get the trans fluid
>> changed and oil changed, + buy the air filter and replace it myself would
>> be good enough for a 96K service ??
>>
>> What would you do if you were in my shoes ?
>>
>> Thanks.
>>
>>
>
>

 

WILLIAM McKinney via CarKB.com wrote:
> buy the parts and do it yourself.Go to dealer in buy tran fluid.Ck
> maint book to see when spark plug needed to be replaced also timing
> belt.Do maint and this car will last.I have a 97 accord with 175,000
> miles,getting ready to do complete timing belt service.Also buy oil
> filter from dealer

Honda automatic transmissions are the easiest cars on the market when
it comes to fluid changes. A 3/8" ratchet is all you need to remove
the bolt, and the only part other than the fluid is a 14 mm aluminum
crush washer (same as the oil). There's no filter. I'd recommend
genuine Honda ATF, even though it's pricier. It's around 2.5-4
quarts per change (check the manual).

If it comes with long-life spark plugs, I wouldn't bother having it
changed before the scheduled time. If you have the tools, I'd pull
them out and check the gap and condition. A locking extension will
help. I'm rather wary of the very long fluid change periods though,
and have the feeling they're marketing driven more than anything
else.

 

buy the parts and do it yourself.Go to dealer in buy tran fluid.Ck maint
book to see when spark plug needed to be replaced also timing belt.Do maint
and this car will last.I have a 97 accord with 175,000 miles,getting ready
to do complete timing belt service.Also buy oil filter from dealer

--
Message posted via http://www.carkb.com

 

Leon Kiriliuk wrote:
>
> What would you do if you were in my shoes ?

me? id do the work myself, according to the book. oil, filter, cabin
filter, etc.

you can probably find a good trusted honda/acura mechanic in the book
who will do just what needs to be done.

 

I don't take it to the dealer unless it's Warranty work. Sorry, just too
much markup. I have a trusted mechanic at AAMCO who was a Honda mechanic
for years. Most of the maintenance I do myself, but Timing Belt and Water
Pump I leave up to them.

If you have Pollen Filters, they are a pain, but I can send you the
instructions if you need it.

G-Man


"Leon Kiriliuk" <leonki@gmail.dot.com> wrote in message
news:p-2dnU0vaOs5btbfRVn-og@rogers.com...
> I drive a 2001 4cyl Honda Accord sedan. I just hit 96,000km, and went to
> the dealership to find out what needs to be done. I was told my car needs
> a type 4 maintenance (~400$) + trans fluid change (more $$$ on top of it).
>
> I was shocked to find out that type 4 is nothing more than a 3 hour
> inspection! All they change is the oil, oil filter, air filter, and if
> applicable, air purifier filter. For 400$ they don't even replace the
> spark plugs!!! WHAT A RIP OFF!
>
> So what am I to do? I had my brakes serviced ~20K ago, and I just put on a
> set of new tires. Do you folks think that if I just get the trans fluid
> changed and oil changed, + buy the air filter and replace it myself would
> be good enough for a 96K service ??
>
> What would you do if you were in my shoes ?
>
> Thanks.
>
>

 

I would read the owner's manual and see what the maker of your car
recommends.


"Leon Kiriliuk" <leonki@gmail.dot.com> wrote in message
news:p-2dnU0vaOs5btbfRVn-og@rogers.com...
> I drive a 2001 4cyl Honda Accord sedan. I just hit 96,000km, and went to
> the dealership to find out what needs to be done. I was told my car needs
> a type 4 maintenance (~400$) + trans fluid change (more $$$ on top of it).
>
> I was shocked to find out that type 4 is nothing more than a 3 hour
> inspection! All they change is the oil, oil filter, air filter, and if
> applicable, air purifier filter. For 400$ they don't even replace the
> spark plugs!!! WHAT A RIP OFF!
>
> So what am I to do? I had my brakes serviced ~20K ago, and I just put on a
> set of new tires. Do you folks think that if I just get the trans fluid
> changed and oil changed, + buy the air filter and replace it myself would
> be good enough for a 96K service ??
>
> What would you do if you were in my shoes ?
>
> Thanks.
>
>