On Fri, 25 Mar 2005 18:45:44 -0800, SoCalMike
<mikein562athotmail@hotmail.com> wrote:

>John Ings wrote:
>> A simpler way with a cheaper switch is to look under the carpet on the
>> driver's side for the wires going to the back. There are several,
>> going to the gas guage and the fuel pump. Interrupt the one going to
>> the fuel pump with a switch that's reachable with your left hand when
>> sitting in the driver's seat. You'll need a look at a wiring diagram
>> to get the color code for the wire. Usually it's yellow.
>
>they run through the cabin along the drivers side doorsill? hmmmm... ive
>been wanting to do something like that and not have to worry bout a
>crappy alarm.

It will stop someone driving the car away, but won't keep them from
stealing your wheels, your battery and your radio, or towing the whole
thing away!

 

>
> You can buy kill switches that are incorporated into a battery clamp
> if you really want to go the battery route,
> <http://new.minimania.com/web/AddedFrom/Suggest_invDetail/Item/NMC1050/InvDetail.cfm>
>
Rememebr a couple of years ago when Diehard advertised a battery line with a
a built in 'kill switch' and accompanying remote key fob. I thought it
sounded neat but never looked into it further.

 

It has a IC memory chip in the plastic covering the non keyed
end.

And they are very expensive it you loose one.

Terry

 

chip wrote:
> On 26 Mar 2005 10:02:57 -0800, MajorSetback@excite.com wrote:
>
> >TomP wrote:
> >> Your car has the Honda Type II Imobilizer system; no "kill switch"
> >> needed. Your car won't start without the programmed key.
> >>
> >
> >The issue arose when our keyless entry switch started playing up
> >(possibly due to an old battery). When my wife opened the door with
> >the key, the alarm went off. It was outside a gas station and a guy
> >from the gas station came out and started playing with this setup
that
> >involved a red flashing light on the dash-board to the left of the
> >steering wheel (relative to the driver on a drive-on-the-right car).
> >By doing this, he was able to turn off the alarm system. I am now
able
> >to open the door and start the car with just the physical key.
> >
> >My question is this. If the guy from the gas station could disable
the
> >alarm system, could a car thief not also disable the alarm system?
> >Would this not enable the thief to hotwire the car?
> >
> >Thanks,
> >Peter.
>
>
> you have aftermarket keyless, he hit the valet button. everyone
> knows how to do that.
> as for starting an immobilizer car, if i find a way to turn the
> switch, like take it off the cylinder, the the brake code can be used
> to start it without a programmed key.
> Chip

I hope I don't sound too clueless but is the "programmed key" the
physical key? I guess the keyless entry button is separate from the
immobilizer. My question is, how can a solid metalic key be
programmed?

Thanks,
Peter.

 

On 26 Mar 2005 10:02:57 -0800, MajorSetback@excite.com wrote:

>TomP wrote:
>> Your car has the Honda Type II Imobilizer system; no "kill switch"
>> needed. Your car won't start without the programmed key.
>>
>
>The issue arose when our keyless entry switch started playing up
>(possibly due to an old battery). When my wife opened the door with
>the key, the alarm went off. It was outside a gas station and a guy
>from the gas station came out and started playing with this setup that
>involved a red flashing light on the dash-board to the left of the
>steering wheel (relative to the driver on a drive-on-the-right car).
>By doing this, he was able to turn off the alarm system. I am now able
>to open the door and start the car with just the physical key.
>
>My question is this. If the guy from the gas station could disable the
>alarm system, could a car thief not also disable the alarm system?
>Would this not enable the thief to hotwire the car?
>
>Thanks,
>Peter.


you have aftermarket keyless, he hit the valet button. everyone
knows how to do that.
as for starting an immobilizer car, if i find a way to turn the
switch, like take it off the cylinder, the the brake code can be used
to start it without a programmed key.
Chip

 

John Ings wrote:
> On Fri, 25 Mar 2005 18:45:44 -0800, SoCalMike
> <mikein562athotmail@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> >John Ings wrote:
> >> A simpler way with a cheaper switch is to look under the carpet on
the
> >> driver's side for the wires going to the back. There are several,
> >> going to the gas guage and the fuel pump. Interrupt the one going
to
> >> the fuel pump with a switch that's reachable with your left hand
when
> >> sitting in the driver's seat. You'll need a look at a wiring
diagram
> >> to get the color code for the wire. Usually it's yellow.
> >
> >they run through the cabin along the drivers side doorsill? hmmmm...
ive
> >been wanting to do something like that and not have to worry bout a
> >crappy alarm.
>
> It will stop someone driving the car away, but won't keep them from
> stealing your wheels, your battery and your radio, or towing the
whole
> thing away!

You reach a point where they will just go after another car - in my
case at least. After all, it is not a collector's item and there are
always other parked cars around. I'm mainly thinking in terms of
parking lots and cul de sacs.

Thanks,
Peter.

 

TomP wrote:
> Your car has the Honda Type II Imobilizer system; no "kill switch"
> needed. Your car won't start without the programmed key.
>

The issue arose when our keyless entry switch started playing up
(possibly due to an old battery). When my wife opened the door with
the key, the alarm went off. It was outside a gas station and a guy
from the gas station came out and started playing with this setup that
involved a red flashing light on the dash-board to the left of the
steering wheel (relative to the driver on a drive-on-the-right car).
By doing this, he was able to turn off the alarm system. I am now able
to open the door and start the car with just the physical key.

My question is this. If the guy from the gas station could disable the
alarm system, could a car thief not also disable the alarm system?
Would this not enable the thief to hotwire the car?

Thanks,
Peter.

 

John Ings wrote:
> On Fri, 25 Mar 2005 18:45:44 -0800, SoCalMike
> <mikein562athotmail@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>
>>John Ings wrote:
>>
>>>A simpler way with a cheaper switch is to look under the carpet on the
>>>driver's side for the wires going to the back. There are several,
>>>going to the gas guage and the fuel pump. Interrupt the one going to
>>>the fuel pump with a switch that's reachable with your left hand when
>>>sitting in the driver's seat. You'll need a look at a wiring diagram
>>>to get the color code for the wire. Usually it's yellow.
>>
>>they run through the cabin along the drivers side doorsill? hmmmm... ive
>>been wanting to do something like that and not have to worry bout a
>>crappy alarm.
>
>
> It will stop someone driving the car away, but won't keep them from
> stealing your wheels, your battery and your radio, or towing the whole
> thing away!
>
>
heh. its a CX hatch, still has the 14" steelies on it, and a blaupunkt
10 disc changer. the battery is OEM and still works great, too!

so i guess theyll haveta tow it.

 

shawn wrote:

> TomP <roadcyc@socal.rr.com> wrote:
>
> > Your car has the Honda Type II Imobilizer system; no "kill switch"
> >needed. Your car won't start without the programmed key.
>
> Do the thieves have a way around it.

> Obviously they could tow the
> vehicle, but I'm wondering if they have found a way to start the car
> and drive it away, yet?

If they want Your car bad enough they will get it. Other than "jack
you" or tow the car. There is no easy way around the Imobilizer system.
Organized car thief's will always get their prey, but with Imobi System
the "joy ride" thefts are all but history.

--
Tp,

-------- __o
----- -\<. -------- __o
--- ( )/ ( ) ---- -\<.
-------------------- ( )/ ( )
-----------------------------------------

No Lawsuit Ever Fixed A Moron...

 

I would like to install a kill switch on a 2000 Honda Accord LX. In the
past (with 80s model cars), I have simply connected a circuit breaker
to the active terminal of the battery. However, as I recall for those
days, the battery wires were pretty thin (like 12 gauge). So I could
just use 12 gauge wire that could easily fit into the kill switch
terminals (for the Toyota Corolla at least). However, the battery on my
current Honda is connected with large cables about a centimeter in
diameter. Do they carry much larger currents now? How much current is
usually involved? I need to ensure that the kill switch and wires can
handle the current. Where would be the best place to get a circuit
diagram? I would be most grateful for any suggestions.

 

John Ings wrote:
> A simpler way with a cheaper switch is to look under the carpet on the
> driver's side for the wires going to the back. There are several,
> going to the gas guage and the fuel pump. Interrupt the one going to
> the fuel pump with a switch that's reachable with your left hand when
> sitting in the driver's seat. You'll need a look at a wiring diagram
> to get the color code for the wire. Usually it's yellow.

they run through the cabin along the drivers side doorsill? hmmmm... ive
been wanting to do something like that and not have to worry bout a
crappy alarm.

 

TomP <roadcyc@socal.rr.com> wrote:

> Your car has the Honda Type II Imobilizer system; no "kill switch"
>needed. Your car won't start without the programmed key.

Do the thieves have a way around it. Obviously they could tow the
vehicle, but I'm wondering if they have found a way to start the car
and drive it away, yet?

 

Your car has the Honda Type II Imobilizer system; no "kill switch"
needed. Your car won't start without the programmed key.

MajorSetback@excite.com wrote:

> I would like to install a kill switch on a 2000 Honda Accord LX. In the
> past (with 80s model cars), I have simply connected a circuit breaker
> to the active terminal of the battery. However, as I recall for those
> days, the battery wires were pretty thin (like 12 gauge). So I could
> just use 12 gauge wire that could easily fit into the kill switch
> terminals (for the Toyota Corolla at least). However, the battery on my
> current Honda is connected with large cables about a centimeter in
> diameter. Do they carry much larger currents now? How much current is
> usually involved? I need to ensure that the kill switch and wires can
> handle the current. Where would be the best place to get a circuit
> diagram? I would be most grateful for any suggestions.

--
Tp,

-------- __o
----- -\<. -------- __o
--- ( )/ ( ) ---- -\<.
-------------------- ( )/ ( )
-----------------------------------------

No Lawsuit Ever Fixed A Moron...

 

"John Ings" <nodamned@spam.org> wrote in message
news:rkr841df6fus1toppm45nuki2q8mfcguph@4ax.com...

> You can buy kill switches that are incorporated into a battery clamp
> if you really want to go the battery route,
> <http://new.minimania.com/web/AddedFrom/Suggest_invDetail/Item/NMC1050/InvDetail.cfm>
>
> But you'll have to re enter your radio code every time you use it,
> your car clock will forget what time it is, and your ECU will loose
> all its data from the past 10 starts.

You just jumper across it with a fused wire, say 2 amps.
It'll keep all your settings intact and clock running, but will blow on
starter current draw.

 

On 25 Mar 2005 07:44:01 -0800, MajorSetback@excite.com wrote:

>I would like to install a kill switch on a 2000 Honda Accord LX. In the
>past (with 80s model cars), I have simply connected a circuit breaker
>to the active terminal of the battery. However, as I recall for those
>days, the battery wires were pretty thin (like 12 gauge). So I could
>just use 12 gauge wire that could easily fit into the kill switch
>terminals (for the Toyota Corolla at least). However, the battery on my
>current Honda is connected with large cables about a centimeter in
>diameter. Do they carry much larger currents now? How much current is
>usually involved?

Your starter wants 50 amps or more.

>I need to ensure that the kill switch and wires can
>handle the current. Where would be the best place to get a circuit
>diagram? I would be most grateful for any suggestions.

You can buy kill switches that are incorporated into a battery clamp
if you really want to go the battery route,
<http://new.minimania.com/web/AddedFrom/Suggest_invDetail/Item/NMC1050/InvDetail.cfm>

But you'll have to re enter your radio code every time you use it,
your car clock will forget what time it is, and your ECU will loose
all its data from the past 10 starts.

A simpler way with a cheaper switch is to look under the carpet on the
driver's side for the wires going to the back. There are several,
going to the gas guage and the fuel pump. Interrupt the one going to
the fuel pump with a switch that's reachable with your left hand when
sitting in the driver's seat. You'll need a look at a wiring diagram
to get the color code for the wire. Usually it's yellow.

 

I doubt this is what you're looking for (especially considering you're
running a newer model). On my accord (1989), when I leave it sitting
for
a long period of time, I remove the PGM-FI main relay and take it with
me.
When I repaired the solder joints on the main relay a few years ago,
I never bothered to put it back in its proper mounting place and
instead just tucked it up under the dash a little.

- Justin

 

A kill switch to make sure no one takes off with your car? A schematic
may show an optional kill relay (not sure on the accord) so you'll want
to get a manual. Of course, if you use a documented method like that in
a manual, a good thief will just bypass it.

I would not put it in line with the battery because those currents are
quite high -- any resistance introduced would drop the voltage getting
to vital components, like your starter.

It might be easier to put a switch between the input of the ignitor and
ecm or the power to the ignitor (mounted inside the distributor, btw).
This would cause fuel to flow, but the car to not have spark.
This will flood your engine, so even if a would be thief figured out
where your kill switch is after he has been trying to start it, the car
will still not start right away (it is flooded, after all).

Or put a switch between the main relay coil and its drive (that's under
the dash, usually near your left knee). This would cause the car to
have spark, but lack gas -- with this one, the car will most likely
start once, die and not restart. If he figured out where the kill
switch is, he'd be able to restart the car easily.


Remco