Re: B18 engine mount common failure question...
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Re: B18 engine mount common failure question...
TeGGer® wrote:
> Which engine mount is usually the first to fail?
>
> Subject car is 1991 Integra with 244K miles. Original engine mounts.
>
> I've noticed in the last year or so that my upper left engine mount (next
> to the timing belt) seems to be leaning forwards.
>
> It used to be that the round part that bolts to the engine was centered
> between the flanges of the part that's welded to the inner fender, but now
> it's about 1/8" closer to the front flange than the rear one. Another 1/8"
> and it will start touching the front flange.
>
> Is my lower front mount (on the front crossmember) deforming?
almost certainly. engine mounts are one of the first things i do when
getting a "new" old honda i intend to keep. they're always broken.
rubber fatigues. provided your car has not sustained any front end
damage, replacement should be easy enough. the rear one, if there's any
frame distortion, can be tough because one of the rear bolt heads can be
obscured. got to drop the whole subframe to get at it. :( still, it's
worth the effort - car drives like new when you're done.
> Which engine mount is usually the first to fail?
>
> Subject car is 1991 Integra with 244K miles. Original engine mounts.
>
> I've noticed in the last year or so that my upper left engine mount (next
> to the timing belt) seems to be leaning forwards.
>
> It used to be that the round part that bolts to the engine was centered
> between the flanges of the part that's welded to the inner fender, but now
> it's about 1/8" closer to the front flange than the rear one. Another 1/8"
> and it will start touching the front flange.
>
> Is my lower front mount (on the front crossmember) deforming?
almost certainly. engine mounts are one of the first things i do when
getting a "new" old honda i intend to keep. they're always broken.
rubber fatigues. provided your car has not sustained any front end
damage, replacement should be easy enough. the rear one, if there's any
frame distortion, can be tough because one of the rear bolt heads can be
obscured. got to drop the whole subframe to get at it. :( still, it's
worth the effort - car drives like new when you're done.
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