Hello. My rear right wheel hub doesn't turn well. I took my rear drums off and my left one spins about two turns before stopping whereas my right one stops spinning nearly immediately after I let go. It seems from the service manual that the bearing and wheel hub is a single piece (that costs more than 150)$.

Is it possible to get in there and try and add some grease to see if it would help the bearing to spin better? Thanks for your responses.

As you can see from my sig, I drive a GD3

 

Cars haven't had grease fittings for years so I would say the answer is no.

 

not without damaging the spindle or the bearing itself no.

 

Ok... so the bearings aren't greased? So if they don't spin right the only solution is to replace them?

What are replacement aftermarket hubs like? Are they comparable to OEM quality?

 

I don't know about OEM vs aftermarket quality but IMO the only solution would be to replace them just like you would do with a CV joint. Once the boot is cracked and insides contaminated, you simply replace the axle. (Both are typically done at the same time).

 

well the Beck Arnley rear wheel bearing/hub assy is only 68$ compared to 150+ for the honda hub.

 

I changed both of my rears with beck arnley. It has only been about 1500 miles but so far so good.

 

Great to know! Thanks. I might give beck arnley a try then. It comes with lugs included which is nice. From the shop manual, it looks as easy as removing the spindle nut and just pulling the hub bearing assy right off. Only problem is that the torque spec on that nut is something like 180 ft/lbs. I hope I can get that without an impact wrench. My torque wrench goes to 200 I think.

Was it an easy job for you? I might do it before winter.

 

Yeah it was pretty easy. One of them pulled right off with no problems. The other took a little work and the inside race of the bearing stuck to the spindle, but it didn't take too much effort to get off. I can't remember the torque spec but it wasn't too hard to set.

Edit: I think I misread your post and that you meant when loosening the nut. I just used a ratchet with a cheater bar on it they weren't too tough to break loose. I know that the toughness of the nut varies on each car but I am about 220 pounds and it didn't give me much trouble.

 

Thanks for all your suggestions! I'm going to change just the rear right bearing. It seems you have to unstake the spindle nut so that makes it easier but I guess you can't really reuse the nut.

I'm doing front brakes today and I just got done smacking like a brute with a sledgehammer on my wrenches to get my caliper slide pins off and brackets off. The previous owner used loctite on all these screws. Also used antiseize to lube the slider pins. I think loctite on caliper pins is ridiculous but is loctite on caliper brackets necessary? What about a spindle nut? should I use loctite? It does make taking the nut off bloody murder when comes the time to make a repair thought...

 

Yeah you definitely want to get that piece up it'll make loosening that nut much easier. Most parts stores around me had new ones in stock for around or under $4.

I wouldn't put locktite on anything. Just tighten to the right torque. To be honest when I do my own brakes I don't even torque anything I just tighten it till I can't anymore without using any extra leverage. The nut on the spindle doesn't need locktite either once it's torqued just hammer it into the groove and it'll hold.

 

Great news! Hopefully i won't have to mess with my bearings again but if I do need to take off the spindle nut in the future, I don't want to get red in the face jumping on a breaker bar to get it loose. Thanks for all your advice