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Honda Fit 2010 Sound System Upgrade

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  #1  
Old 11-02-2013, 01:05 PM
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Honda Fit 2010 Sound System Upgrade

I want to upgrade the sound system of my 2010 Fit. I have my eyes on the Pioneer AVIC-X850BT , and for the door speakers I have on mind Polk Audio db651s
I came here to see what do you guys think if this is a descent setup or should I get something different. Give me some advise please thank you in advance.
 

Last edited by Hallstatt; 11-02-2013 at 01:09 PM.
  #2  
Old 11-02-2013, 06:05 PM
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That looks like a fine head and speakers.

For that kind of money, I'd be looking at installing an amplifier too, even without subwoofers. Something like this. There are less expensive non-Pioneer amps; the fine folks at crutchfield would be happy to advise you.

Thing is, the head, whether it's the factory unit or the Pioneer you have picked out all output about the same power. It really won't make a big difference in sound quality unless you have an amp to really drive those speakers.

It's counter intuitive, but more amps will actually be easier on speakers and give you the sound quality you want.
 
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Old 11-02-2013, 06:42 PM
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Thank you very much for the reply. I was thinking about installing 2X10 inch subs also, but I don't know jack about amps and subs.
 
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Old 11-02-2013, 06:58 PM
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You can add them later, but it'd be better to do at the same time as the speakers and head. You'll have to mess with wiring if you put an amp in; the existing speaker wires won't be thick enough.

Best talk to a lot of people and figure out how/where you'd put stuff.

There are also a lot of 5 channel amps with subwoofer connections too.

The last one I put in, in my son's miata, we installed an amp for subs, but didn't amplify the doors or headrest speakers beyond what the head output. I wish we had.
 
  #5  
Old 11-02-2013, 10:22 PM
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Kenwood Excelon XR900-5
JL Audio CP212-W0v3 Is this amp good for this subs.
 

Last edited by Hallstatt; 11-02-2013 at 10:38 PM.
  #6  
Old 11-03-2013, 10:54 AM
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Bump! Bump! Bump!
 
  #7  
Old 11-03-2013, 11:04 AM
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Those look like good choices. You'll have to decide if they're worth it.

Have a look at some of the other forums here to see what others have done. Part of the problem is where/how to house the amp and sub woofers. You'll have to run very thick cable from the battery in the engine compartment to wherever the amp is installed. And heavy speaker wire to all of the speakers. The ability to power the amp becomes another consideration. This amplifier draws a current of 80 amperes, that's a heavy draw on your car's electrical system (maybe more than it can output especially when using other electrical accessories). Others are installing larger alternators to power their amps.

If all I really wanted was navigation and bluetooth functions, I'd probably just pull the head and replace and keep the factory speakers. They're pretty well matched for the interior materials and placement. Beyond that it get's pricy. Replacing just the head is plug and play (they have adapter harnesses so you don't have to worry about wiring).

If I decided to pull the plug on an expensive system I'd check out some audiophile websites, visit some stereo shops, and then shop online.

I found that talking to the advisers at crutchfield was helpful. A lot more than talking to sales people at best buy. Tell them what you want (often the biggest issue figuring out) and what you want to spend. Take their advice and compare it with what others are doing. Crutchfield is a bit pricy but their advice, return policies, and freebies (install kits etc) make them competitive.

The install is important. The stock door panels are buzzy. More power and better speakers will make that worse. Sound deadening materials (dynamat) are something else that you'll want to invest in.

Don't spend a lot of money on wire. Monster cable charges monster prices for copper wire. There's nothing magical about cables; get the proper gauge (thickness) without spending for name brand wire.
 
  #8  
Old 11-03-2013, 11:30 AM
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This amplifier only draws 54amperes current, within the Fit's ability to power. It still outputs a comfortable 500 watts of power to the sub and 50 watts to each door speaker (about 4 times what just the head does).
 
  #9  
Old 11-03-2013, 02:58 PM
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Thank you for your input; you have been very helpful. Besides talking to you here at fitfreak; I also visited Crutchfield and chat with one of their advisers. I told them what I wanted, and they recommend it those subs and the amp. Since the amp that you showed me is less expensive, I went ahead and I ordered the one that you recommended. I also settled with a different head unit without NavGPS system. I bought everything at amazon; they have better prices. I wouldn't go to best buy for anything. Like you said monster cable is just MONSTER prices lol.
 

Last edited by Hallstatt; 11-03-2013 at 03:01 PM.
  #10  
Old 11-04-2013, 10:13 PM
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Let us know how it goes together.
 
  #11  
Old 11-13-2013, 08:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Steve244
Don't spend a lot of money on wire. Monster cable charges monster prices for copper wire. There's nothing magical about cables; get the proper gauge (thickness) without spending for name brand wire.
I agree with one disclaimer - spend money on quality RCA cable. Speaker, ground, power and remote leads can be whatever size is appropriate.
 
  #12  
Old 05-30-2014, 10:42 AM
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It's been a few months since my last visit here. I finished the installation few months back but I've been lazy and I hadn't uploaded any pictures of my upgrades. I went ahead and removed ceiling, floor carpet, door panels everything. I went mad, when I removed the seats and the floor carpet, I said to myself what the fuck I am doing. I created a fucking mess, I didn't think I was going to able to put everything back together but I did. I had more trouble putting back the sun visors than removing the floor carpet. I run the rca cables through the center of the car, and the power cable through the side. I even went ahed and installed a sirius-xm receiver. I didn't take any pictures of the sound deadening installation or the car stereo; I figured there are plenty of DIY here at fitfreak. I didn't have to get a better battery, or upgrade to a more powerful alternator. The lighting it's fine no flickering or signs or when I turn on the car.

This what I installed
Pioneer AVHX8500BHS
Kenwood Excelon XR900-5
JL Audio CP212-W0v3
Polk Audio db6501
Polk Audio db651
 
  #13  
Old 05-30-2014, 10:46 AM
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it should work now. Did the link for the video work?

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Last edited by Hallstatt; 05-31-2014 at 08:13 PM.
  #14  
Old 05-30-2014, 02:31 PM
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that should do it. (pics didn't post)
 
  #15  
Old 05-31-2014, 09:38 AM
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Thank you steve & caroline crussing for your help I forgot to mention that I also changed the headliner as you can see in those pictures.:thumbu ps:
 
  #16  
Old 05-31-2014, 07:25 PM
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holy crap. Does the hatch stay closed with the sound turned up?

Jack looks worried.

The headliner is inspired. I think I would need copious recreational drugs to fully appreciate it though.



Vid still doesn't play...
 
  #17  
Old 05-31-2014, 07:53 PM
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Hahahahah yeah it gets fucking loud in there LOL. the bass is insane, and jack went fucking deaf long time ago . When i turn that shit up the windshield and the rear-view mirror start shaking LIKE CRAZY it feels like an 8.0 earthquake
 

Last edited by Hallstatt; 06-01-2014 at 11:48 AM.
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