Has anyone even heard of this stuff??? Honda requires that you change your coolant every 3 years. In the fit it would only cost $50 for this stuff and if it last the life of the engine without corroding your engine, water pump, hoses, and radiator I think thats money well spent.
Home » Engine Cooling Systems

 

Thanks! GREAT find! I will visit the Evans web site to get more info. on which of their formulas is the best for a Fit, and intend to buy this stuff. Ethylene Glycol and/or Propylene Glycol have always been a compromise- the best they could do to balance raising water boiling temps. in engines with trying to limit corrosion. Not totally successful in either case.

BTW- if you somehow get poisoned by drinking Ethylene Glycol and get to a hospital before kidney and liver failure set it, the antidote that you will get is a big glassful of Propylene Glycol to drink. The poison will be neutralized and you will survive.

The non-toxic coolants sold by Peak and Amsoil is Propylene Glycol. The Evans coolant sounds like it answers absolutely all coolant issues for engines and helps the environment too.

 

So far the only issues im seeing with this stuff is rotary and motorcycle guys are seeing higher temps. Probably wont be an issue in a Fit.

 

I agree- with water-based coolant, higher temps. mean high pressure once you go above 212 degrees and steam starts to build up. That lessens water contact with metal and further increases heat build-up.

Evans has a dealer 45 miles from my home. I emailed them asking for price and whether they would allow customer pick-ups instead of shipping.

A one-time install with lifetime performance would justify a $100.00 cost. Zero corrosion would pretty much prevent leaks (as long as there is no chemical reaction with rubber hoses). You would have to put stickers all over the engine bay warning overly-helpful garage personnel NOT to add water no matter what they see on the reservoir.

 

on one episode of wheelers dealers i think they used this on one of the cars
this is good stuff...

 

It turns out that the Evans dealer near me only sells the motorcycle formula of the coolant. So I will need to pay UPS shipping charges for several gallons of stuff weighing 8 pounds per gallon. Why several?

It is nearly impossible to completely drain all coolant from an engine block and all hoses, radiator, heater core, etc. by gravity alone. In trying to completely exchange the water-based coolant for the new waterless stuff, remaining water will reduce the effectiveness of the new coolant, and will still cause corrosion.

So they sell a special "preparation flush formula" that supposedly combines with water and removes it as the flush is drained. They don't give that away either. So to make this effort effective for the future, I need to have extra coolant to make up for any leaks that might possibly come up, as well as the additional gallon of flush formula.

I am in no hurry to spend that much money at the moment. But I do intend to continue investigating, and I will probably proceed with an expensive purchase and go ahead with the flush & fill with the magic coolant.

 

Shouldn't be that bad. The fit only has slightly more than a gallon of coolant

 

"Slightly more than one" means you need two at almost $50.00 each, plus a gallon of the water scavenging flush at about $35.00, plus high shipping charge. For "lifetime" protection, it is still affordable, but I have so much going on right now that I don't feel the need to take this project on right away. Remember that ANY accidental contamination with water will ruin the benefit of the special coolant. This probably would not be a good idea for anyone who does not have absolute control over his car and what goes in it as far as maintenance chemicals- you have to be absolutely certain that service techs. never touch the cooling system.

Feel free to be the first Freak to try it out and report back to the forums.

 

https://www.google.com/webhp?sourcei...iw=950&bih=934

A little cheaper

 

I always check eBay and Amazon before I buy anything direct, but thanks for other people who might have paid the direct price. For anyone else who wants to get into this product for their Fit, the "NPG+C" is the formula for daily drivers. They have another version for large diesel truck engines, and a third exclusively for race cars that are not street driven, and a fourth for motorcycles/ATV's (power sports vehicles). I didn't see any mention on eBay (have not looked closely yet) of the flush. If no other online vendor sells the flush, it would still be affordable to buy that direct if you had to.

Being now out of warranty, I am intrigued with this stuff and will use it by the end of the summer. The Fit is 3-1/2 years old and a long way from needing a coolant change, but this stuff will be my next step after adding the Australian fog/driving light bar to the front bumper.

Thanks again krunk13 for posting this info. Now I wonder where/if I can buy a "locking" radiator and overflow reservoir cap. Or a big sticker for under the hood that says: "STOP! If you add water, you will be shot!".

 

do you have a diy for this?

 

Nope, just vodka (and Fomepizole according to wikipedia). They get you drunk to saturate your liver with booze which blocks the ethylene glycol from being broken down.

 

I have not installed it yet. denachuck says that he will post his own install DIY but does not have time now. I will shoot photos and post my own DIY, but can't start on this project right now.

But, this is exactly what I will do. Remove license plate & mounting bracket, but keep the center bracket mount screw from the center of the bumper.

Drill a hole in the Unibar rear plate, dead center, in line with the six bolt holes that are already in that plate. Place 2" wide masking tape horizontally across the front of the bumper, with the plate bracket screw hole in the center of the tape. Use the bracket screw through the center hole that was drilled to hold the plate centered against the bumper. Using the empty bolt holes, mark two of those holes on each side with a marker on the tape. Remove center screw and remove the light bar. Using a deep 1" hole saw, drill a 1" hole at each of the marked spots on the tape, and drill down to the steel bumper cross beam that runs between the sides of the car frame.

Clear out any remaining bumper foam pad material, and drill 5/16" holes completely through the bumper cross beam in each of the through-holes in the bumper. Place lengths of 3/4" PVC pipe (that you have already measured and cut with precise flat cuts on each end of the pipe) into the four bumper holes. These are stand-offs to give solid placement for the light bar.

Install 5/16" bolts through the holes in the back panel of the light bar and run them through the pipe spacers and through the holes in the steel bumper cross beam. Use a fender washer, lock nut and hex nut on each bolt inside the back of the cross beam and tighten.

Using the bolts and brackets provided with the Unibar, attach your license plate under the horizontal light mounting platform, mount your lights, wire them up and you're done.

Based on posted comments from denachuck and the instructions that came with the light bar, the above is the "short form" of what I intend to do to mount my Unibar. I will be using Warn remote control operated off-road fog lights because they WORK in fog, and don't require wiring through the firewall. Direct battery power to the lights is provided by under-hood relays, switches, and all you need in the driver's seat is a push-button remote control that I will mount with Velcro to the front of my Honda center armrest.

Now wake up from fainting over the thought of those 1" holes through the bumper.

I got my Unibar through Amazon for the low price of $80.00, but I will bet that such low prices will be very hard to find. The quality of the light bar is absolutely great.

Sorry mods- didn't mean to clutter this thread with off topic stuff. Feel free to move this if you want to to the "Rally Lights" thread in the exterior lighting forum.

 

Yep, propylene glycol is the official antidote for ethylene glycol poisoning at my local hospital, even though other things might work. Drink some coolant and try the vodka. Let us know how it works.

 

As someone mention above Wheeler Dealers

 

Why do it? It takes maybe 20 minutes to drain the old coolant, flush the radiator, fill with normal old coolant, that is a WHOLE BUNCH CHEAPER.

 

Especially considering likelihood of breaking down/wrecking that would otherwise render the fit useless.

Take into account time value of money and throw in risk of losing the car by another means, and it's probably not worth it.

Cool stuff, though.

 

You ever look at the cooling system of an old car? no matter how well you take care of it ....WATER ALWAYS WINS. This stuff costs more but it extends the life of your whole cooling system. Hoses last longer, the channels in your block dont get corroded, your radiator is less likely to leak. If this was a set of wheels, coil overs or any other mod you would be like "Oh it cost more and everyone knows you get what you pay for...blah blah blah"

 

Leno's old cars are like 80 years old. The Fit's block and radiator are aluminum so corrosion isn't as much of an issue (Leno shows pitting in an old car with aluminum, but they probably didn't use Honda's coolant). The stuff is intended more for semi diesels that like to run hot. And Leno doesn't have a money problem.

I'll go with Honda's anti-freeze and mix with distilled water if it doesn't come pre-mixed. When it's time. In another 5 years or so. *


*or sooner when it needs topping off.

 

lol what.... Who told you aluminum doesnt corrode? You ever look inside an old honda or BMW (aluminum block) that white stuff is aluminum oxide. Hot water over thousands of cooling and heating cycles will erode ANYTHING. There is literally no material that can stand up to water and time.