Going lower than about 30mm will start having an impact and the RCA can play a part. Not many here on this forum though actually care about how their car handles and care more about its looks, that's just the way it is from what I have seen and it is not just limited to the Fit, it is like a massive wildfire all over the Internet. On that same note, the majority are not beating on their Fit where they will see an improvement with the addition of the RCA so it is a part not really thought of. On one hand I understand that viewpoint, but the driver inside me doesn't.

 

The comment is really just to ensure that some information on the topic is there, because some people are interested, and otherwise would never even know. I personally won't even be considering this for a long time, but information is information.

 

Most definitely. That may actually be the case that many do not even realize how detrimental they are being by dropping it without supporting mods. I know I wouldn't be running my Fit the way it is without the RCAs.

 

I would have had no idea this was a problem if you had not pointed this out. Anything past 20mm and there's a problem.

Now I have a ton of questions

1. There are two types of available upgrades

a) RCAs using OEM LCA
b) Complete LCA+RCA kits

Do you need special tool/equipment to install RCAs in existing OEM LCA's?

2. Because the geometry is off kilter when lowering the car on shorter springs, what other parts such as suspension / power / steering can be affected?

Do the RCAs address all issues with lowering a car?

Because of the cost associated with LCA/RCA + Springs do coilovers become a better option?

OR do you still need the LCA/RCA + Coilovers to make it all work properly?

another question

On adjustable coilovers you can get the car aligned and get the 4 corners balanced...

With just lowering springs...How adjusted is your car?

I`ve read that a balanced car (4 corners) is the only way to really deliver the potential of a lowered car on coilovers. How then can you adjust for this problem on springs alone?

Springs seemed to be a real bee's nest of problems. A beautifully dropped car means absolutly nothing if the geometry of the suspension is off, and if the car is not balanced...or aligned for that matter

Please advise.

 

With most springs you are not lowering the car to the point that it is throwing the geometry off to an extreme. If you do go with the SWIFT SportMachs, you will only be lowering about 25mm. With coilovers, most on here are dumping their car and really are hurting the handling aspect, something the Fit relies on greatly with its minimal power output. So the RCAs would be more beneficial for a coilover setup if one is indeed passing 30mm of lowering. Other problems with lowering, well if going with negative camber, start putting stress on the wheel bearings if running lots of negativity.

About going with just the RCAs or new arms with the RCAs already installed, comes down to what your wallet will allow and how impatient or lazy you are. I went with the newer lower arms with RCAs already installed so I could just remove and replace in the quickest time. Time equals money to me.

Again, it all really depends on what you plan on doing with your vehicle. I take mine out on circuit every now and then, before the coilovers I was running Honda Access suspension which lowered about 25mm front and rear and didn't install the RCAs and didn't seem to have an issue with handling really even without an alignment (biggest issue was the one wheel peel from open differential). If you want just a decent looking drop and not planning on really beating on your car, I would say don't go with coilovers and go with the SWIFT springs. You can still get an alignment done to make sure your toe is within specs or give a slight bit of positive toe up front to aid with turn-in and can use camber bolts to give some slight negative camber and the car is going to handle nicely. I don't run an extra rear sway, not at all needed with how my car is setup, have a very nice neutral handler, but you have one and based on what many say here their handling is much improved so with just springs and the aforementioned alignment, the Fit should put a smile on your face when you push its anemic power around with the bulldogs not in the car.

 

^what he said.^

Also note what was said earlier, those parts in the link I sent were specific to the GD3, so ensure you find the right ones for the GE8. Also note that the LCA+RCA kits in that link are also only for the Jazz. The RCA sets are usable on all. (but likely still GD/GE specific)

I'll answer the left over questions that I can, since there is always the possibility of lower springs than the Swifts.

Tools... no idea since I haven't done it yet. You could always check a shop manual. Here's a popular online one for the Jazz, though it's very similar to the Fit. http://www.hondafitjazz.com/manual.htm

I've heard they can be difficult to install though.

In terms of other affected parts, I don't think the power steering would be affected at all if you keep the proper alignment. Shocks will be susceptible to faster wear due to the fact that, when you use stiffer springs and therefore reduce the shock's travel, the shock will be using a smaller portion of it's mechanism, therefore wearing out that spot faster. However, as much as some people have had theirs blow quickly (the OEM shocks, by the way), I haven't had mine go, and I've had the springs for over a year, involving the very rough roads of Calgary. So some will have better luck than others. There are other reasons why OEM shocks will deteriorate in this manner, but all that's important is that they will wear faster. I do believe as well that some other parts, like the knuckles, arms, etc. would benefit (if the car's low enough) in terms of wear if RCA's are installed. Everything should wear more normally with a corrected geometry.

Like it was mentioned by someone else earlier as well, RCA's can address the geometrical issues of a lowered car, but only 100% if they are 100% the exact correction for your height. If that makes sense... It's a bit of math to determine this, however, I would think that most RCA's are made to correct a fairly average lowering height that needs them. The AJ-Racing Fit had J's RCA's for their T1R coilover set, and it was a phenomenal car, so that goes to show what's possible.

Now, for the weight balancing (I'm assuming this is what you mean) it is a cross-weight balancing, where you measure FL+RR vs. FR+RL to be as close to the same as possible. This enables the left and right steering to be identical in ability (all other things being equal, that is). Aside from adding weights, which would generally be counter-intuitive, the way you adjust the cross weight is by changing the heights of each corner or corner set. That you would need the appropriate coilovers for, since our stock suspension has no adjustment for this. Here's a great link about that topic: Corner Balance

Anyways, just adding lowering springs won't change this weight adjustment at all (provided they are all the same in cross-height) but the stiffer the spring, the more exaggerated the original imbalance in cross weight becomes.

I hope I explained some of these things well enough. Much of what I said is really getting specific, and isn't particularly going to be of any high importance, unless it IS high importance to you. I personally like to ensure everything is the best it can be, so all of it is of importance to me, whereas many others wouldn't feel the same. A dropped car can be better even without some of the specific adjustments, it all depends on a lot of factors. Some may not give you an actual higher number in G's of turning force, but rather a more impressive feel and balance in handling that enables you to drive better, and most importantly, have more fun! It's not so much a nest of problems, but a world of exploration that you can dive into, if you desire. If you care a lot about the details, then get to reading and ask more questions as you work out your "final" setup! (though... we aren't necessarily good at settling for one setup) If not, check out more reviews from people about what they've done, and how they have benefited, and choose a simple change that will suit your needs.

I've talked enough. Good night, and if you have more questions, go for it. There's tons of knowledge in this forum.

 

as for lowering springs & stock wheels, that's what I'm doing right now

 

If you can't afford both, I'd rather lower them first. Oftem times, when I see aftermarket rims and tires floating on stock height, I think "I bet I can fit a bowling bowl between that gap". It usually makes the gap so much more wider.

 

Thank you for taking the time to comment. It does show that lowering a car can be more technical and challenging if an owner decides to do some serious drops or other equipment changes affecting the suspension.

What I will take away from this is that Swift springs are a good deal for Fit owners because the geometry of the vehicle is not significantly impacted but if can affect the life span of OEM shocks.

From other Swift reviews on this site, I would say that it is a pretty good trade off. More than not, users report no real difference in the lifespan of their OEM shocks.

It is no longer a wonder why owners looking for a little upgrade to the look and feel of their Fits go the route of Swifts.

Thanks again

Dwayne.

 

Good info in here from 555, and Ummm.

If I'm not mistake the RCA/LCA combo 555 has on his JDM GE8 should work with our USDM's. I believe it was mentioned somewhere here on this forum. I've been looking at that option for a little while (and the LSD), just need to do my research.

 

RCA's make a noticeable difference if your car is dramatically lowered (over 2"). I've noticed a huge difference personally when I've used them before, but I don't have a set on the Fit.

I would say for Swift replacement springs and anything that drops less than 2" they're not really needed. Getting more camber will make a more noticeable improvement in handling than RCAs just because of the Fit's suspension design.

As for the original question, i'd lower the car before wheels every time. I cannot stand wheel gap (trucks get a pass )

 

What's confusing is at which point do you need RCA's to regain/improve handling. Regarding the Fit, I've read 15mm, 20mm, 25mm, 2" (which is 50.8mm). I know it varies from car to car. Seems like there's no definitive answer except for busting out some protractor's and taking actual measurements (before and after lowering), and seeing how the geometry has changed to determine if you need RCA's?

Which all get's thrown out the door if your DD height is different than your track day height. Am I understanding this correctly?

Don't want to take away from the OP's topic and questions, so....
I say Swifts springs before rims in your case, especially since the OEM tires are still good.... however I'd upgrade the tires as soon as you can. Going from 185 to 205 definitely made the car more stable & better handling for me.

 

I like 205s when I'm cornering or braking but not when I need to accelerate to pass someone on a two lane highway or computing fuel mileage.

 

go with #1

unless you can order custom aftermarket wheels with converative offsets, the car is going to look lifted.

 

You are correct in a way, if you wanted to adjust roll center EXACTLY back to stock, you would need to change RCA size, but it's really not that serious to warrant all that work.

Take a look through this article. It's not Fit specific but you'll get the idea.
VW Volkswagen GTI-VR6 List - Old Library

Basically, you're trying to correct the angle between the lower control arm and the strut. Bump steer won't become bothersome until the car is signifigantly lowered. IMO the angle doesn't need to be exactly returned to stock, but somewhere closer to it is better than way off.

The way our suspension changes camber during cornering negatively impacts the handling worse than any issues caused by changing the roll center, as it ADDS camber in a turn and is why I say camber adjustment would be my first concern over RCAs. I would use them as a finishing touch really.

 

Gotcha @ Wanderer. Thanks for the info & the link!

Thanks also UmmFit for the Corner Balancing link (which links to the authors RCA link as well), good info in those links.

 

With my Fit I want to improve the handling starting with the Eibach springs and researching what other items I can do such as tires, sway bar, and under panel.
The Fit being a daily driver I was concern with road salt affect on coilovers, so I was considering keeping the springs and getting better aftermarket struts and shocks.

However I have not been able to find if Koni makes a adjustable shock or strut for the Fit or a link within the forum as to what aftermarket struts and shocks people are buying for their GE8?

 

That's because as of right now, there are none available except KYB Excel-G which are basically OEM replacements.

I am hoping some start becoming available soon.

 

I kept looking came accross the KYB which they said was OEM. It kind of leaves us with coilovers as the only option. Thanks

 

You are most welcome!