^^BINGO^^

Side to side distribution is also important - if not critical. The primary use my trailer has seen is loaded for camping. Heavy stuff centered over the axle, the rest distributed to balance it out. Have a nice staved tarp cover lashed to make the whole thing weather proof at highway speed. Been hauling it around for close to 20yrs, never have had an issue - save light bulbs now and again.

Quality hubs/bearings and 13" wheels makes a huge difference.

Tongue weight is relative to the total load and quite easy to manage. The thing is many don't understand it's importance. The load in the trailer needs to be well balanced and secure, secure, secure. The coupler needs to be well maintained and always locked when attached to the ball. The ball needs to be well torqued. Safety chains need to be connected to solid points on the tow vehicle. Not sure where I'll hook them on the FIT.

 

This is the more correct answer. I researched quite a bit after reading the reply to my 25 lb question. Bottom line is 25 lb tongue weight would be acceptable tongue weight for 250 lb total trailer weight (trailer plus cargo). 9%-15% is the accepted ratio of tongue weight to trailer weight. If the trailer weight is heavier than 250 lbs then the tongue weight needs to be heavier as well.


Think of a 1,000 lb trailer with a 25 lb tongue weight. That trailer would be swaying all over the road and the trailer could actually be lifting the rear wheels up slightly reducing traction.

Good to review this for safe trailering. I never gave it much thought before, although I think my setup is within limits and well balanced. I might see if U-Haul has a tongue weight scale and can measure mine. The method to weigh tongue weight yourself is not the easiest, brick, scale, cut pipes, cut wood, measure, etc.

_

 

Actually it isn't hard at all. Stand on bathroom scale, see how much you weigh, lift tongue and see how much you now weigh. Hold trailer at the connector.

Positive tongue weight is needed. Excessive tongue weight needs to be avoided.

Not mentioned thus far is a hitch jack. I can't tell you how much this simplifies things. Not all 'light duty' trailers come with them, but if you've ever used one you know what I mean.

Edit: What I use: Gander Mountain® > Zinc-Plated Trailer Stand

 

Just do it and see what happens. I would agree with some of the other post that adding all that weight behind the rear axle. l will cause handling problems. or just shear off the back end if you kit a big bump at speed

 

as much as I favor experimenting with other people's cars, it won't fit to even try. Class 3 and 4 receivers have a different dimension from 1 and 2. No one makes those for the fit.

 

Here is a pic of our new trailer......a Big Tex. Hitch wt when empty is 20 lbs. The capacity is 1500 pounds. We also have a scooter, and 3 kayaks. The trailer rides very well, and I don't intend to put more than 1000 pounds in there.

Note the two chains....they hook up easily to the trailer hitch, which has a large loop to handle that.

Honda Autos :: NewtrailerS02.jpg picture by stanman55 - Photobucket

 

The standard rule for tongue weight on a towing trailer is that it should be 10 -15% of the total weight. So if you are pulling a 1000 pound load, then the tongue weight should be 100 -150- lbs.

You can tell a badly loaded trailer on the hwy....it usually is wandering all over the road.....very dangerous!

 

Even with a hitch installed it shant void your warranty! A hitch does not have to imply you are towing... perhaps a hitch mounted bike rack.

 

Consider this.... and it only weighs 166lbs

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Dirt-...Q5fAccessories