Oil Filter -- Honda vs. Mobil1
#61
03-27-2013 | 01:40 PM
Member
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 170
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Where and when did you get this misinformation that you repeating here? Sorry for my tone, but napthenic hydrocarbons have not been used in motor oils for decades. Modern Group III paraffinics are synthetic. 7500 miles is a typical change interval with so-called "dino" (not dyno) oils. I've had lab analysis done on conventional oils such as Chevron Delo 400 (group II paraffinic) at 8000 miles in a high-revving BMW with no evidence of breakdown at all. The four-ball test that Amsoil used to promote does not simulate any moving part in an engine, gearbox maybe, but not engine.
Use a 5W-20 GF-5 oil in your Honda, and change it according to the meter in the odometer. All modern oils, especially 5W-20 are really synthetic blends, as Group I or even Group II paraffinics simply will not pass the qualification tests without synthetic correction fluid blended in. If you live in an area of sub-zero winters, then a 0W-20 full synthetic may be of value for cold cranking.
Please provide documentation of the 3% hp and mileage claim, thanks.
Use a 5W-20 GF-5 oil in your Honda, and change it according to the meter in the odometer. All modern oils, especially 5W-20 are really synthetic blends, as Group I or even Group II paraffinics simply will not pass the qualification tests without synthetic correction fluid blended in. If you live in an area of sub-zero winters, then a 0W-20 full synthetic may be of value for cold cranking.
Please provide documentation of the 3% hp and mileage claim, thanks.
I found this post searching "oil" and "filters" since I think I'm going to do my own oil changes on this car using a Fumoto valve, but I would like to ask a question. My Fit was purchased new. Not that this will ever come up, but keeping receipts where I purchase the oil and filter and filling out the maintenance book is enough to keep the warranty okay in case something happens?
An example of my concern, this is when I was an Audi service adviser.... anyone hear about the 2000ish Audi motors that had oil sludge problems? Audi would cover the $1,000+ repair IF you could prove you've been doing oil changes with qualified filters and oil, if not you were SOL.
#62
04-30-2013 | 10:58 PM
New Member
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 12
From: Rednekistan
Where and when did you get this misinformation that you repeating here? Sorry for my tone, but napthenic hydrocarbons have not been used in motor oils for decades. Modern Group III paraffinics are synthetic. 7500 miles is a typical change interval with so-called "dino" (not dyno) oils. I've had lab analysis done on conventional oils such as Chevron Delo 400 (group II paraffinic) at 8000 miles in a high-revving BMW with no evidence of breakdown at all. The four-ball test that Amsoil used to promote does not simulate any moving part in an engine, gearbox maybe, but not engine.
Use a 5W-20 GF-5 oil in your Honda, and change it according to the meter in the odometer. All modern oils, especially 5W-20 are really synthetic blends, as Group I or even Group II paraffinics simply will not pass the qualification tests without synthetic correction fluid blended in. If you live in an area of sub-zero winters, then a 0W-20 full synthetic may be of value for cold cranking.
Please provide documentation of the 3% hp and mileage claim, thanks.
Use a 5W-20 GF-5 oil in your Honda, and change it according to the meter in the odometer. All modern oils, especially 5W-20 are really synthetic blends, as Group I or even Group II paraffinics simply will not pass the qualification tests without synthetic correction fluid blended in. If you live in an area of sub-zero winters, then a 0W-20 full synthetic may be of value for cold cranking.
Please provide documentation of the 3% hp and mileage claim, thanks.
Practically, group III, done well, is almost as good as group IV in the properties that matter: viscosity index, lubricity, and resistance to breakdown from shear, heat and an oxidizing environment. Fwiw.
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