Is it safe to put in synthetic oil at 200 miles?
#1
Is it safe to put in synthetic oil at 200 miles?
Hey all! Just got my GE8 last weekend... Had a 2007 Yaris Sedan before that... the Fit is better in every way!
Question:
I want to put in some Royal Purple 5w-20 in it. Is it safe to put in synthetic oil in our Fits/Jazzes this early?
Future work on the Fit may include suspension bits like strut bars, if they become available...
Question:
I want to put in some Royal Purple 5w-20 in it. Is it safe to put in synthetic oil in our Fits/Jazzes this early?
Future work on the Fit may include suspension bits like strut bars, if they become available...
#2
The factory break in oil should be kept in there for quite a while. Generally the first oil change is around 5000 miles. If you took the car to the dealer and asked for an oil change they would give you an explaination about all the special additives in that break in oil.
That said, I would recommend you keep the break in oil there for at least 1500 miles or so. I changed mine out at 2000 miles and went to synthetic. That might have been a little early. I run synthetic and change every 5000 miles in all my cars. Still, it's your car and you can do what you want to. I think the car is nowhere near broken in yet and mine may not be either.
That said, I would recommend you keep the break in oil there for at least 1500 miles or so. I changed mine out at 2000 miles and went to synthetic. That might have been a little early. I run synthetic and change every 5000 miles in all my cars. Still, it's your car and you can do what you want to. I think the car is nowhere near broken in yet and mine may not be either.
#4
I wouldn't myself, for two reasons:
-The factory oil is LOADED with moly, whether it comes from the oil itself or particles coming off the piston skirts doesn't matter. One of the main reasons for using RP is its higher moly content than average (it's one way it reduces friction) and right now that RP has FAR less than what's already in the car. We're talking a factor of 5 to 10 less. (Do a search here for analyses done of factory oil to see for yourself.)
-The cylinder wall break-in could be effectively halted by the synthetic oil. The honing has to be flattened to some extent and the rings worn to match the pattern. If the process is halted early by an oil with too much shear strength, the hone will resemble that of a motor that's beaten on before broke in, where the coking of the oil from high temp fills the hone, increasing the effective depths of the grooves as well as reducing the width the smooth metallic surfaces the rings ride on. When the cooked oil finally comes out you get oil consumption. (This is my personal conclusion after rebuilding tractors and small engines.)
At least that's how this redneck understands it. I wait at least 5k before switching to synthetic myself, but it's fully your decision.
-The factory oil is LOADED with moly, whether it comes from the oil itself or particles coming off the piston skirts doesn't matter. One of the main reasons for using RP is its higher moly content than average (it's one way it reduces friction) and right now that RP has FAR less than what's already in the car. We're talking a factor of 5 to 10 less. (Do a search here for analyses done of factory oil to see for yourself.)
-The cylinder wall break-in could be effectively halted by the synthetic oil. The honing has to be flattened to some extent and the rings worn to match the pattern. If the process is halted early by an oil with too much shear strength, the hone will resemble that of a motor that's beaten on before broke in, where the coking of the oil from high temp fills the hone, increasing the effective depths of the grooves as well as reducing the width the smooth metallic surfaces the rings ride on. When the cooked oil finally comes out you get oil consumption. (This is my personal conclusion after rebuilding tractors and small engines.)
At least that's how this redneck understands it. I wait at least 5k before switching to synthetic myself, but it's fully your decision.
Last edited by polaski; 05-16-2009 at 07:10 PM.
#5
The factory break in oil should be kept in there for quite a while. Generally the first oil change is around 5000 miles. If you took the car to the dealer and asked for an oil change they would give you an explaination about all the special additives in that break in oil.
That said, I would recommend you keep the break in oil there for at least 1500 miles or so. I changed mine out at 2000 miles and went to synthetic. That might have been a little early. I run synthetic and change every 5000 miles in all my cars. Still, it's your car and you can do what you want to. I think the car is nowhere near broken in yet and mine may not be either.
That said, I would recommend you keep the break in oil there for at least 1500 miles or so. I changed mine out at 2000 miles and went to synthetic. That might have been a little early. I run synthetic and change every 5000 miles in all my cars. Still, it's your car and you can do what you want to. I think the car is nowhere near broken in yet and mine may not be either.
#9
i'm intrigued with the bar that goes on the top back of the vehicle... i've thought about getting something like that and putting carpeting on it so it blend with the car more...
i'd consider strut bars. the sport has sways, front and back so i don't think i'd look into replacing them with thicker bars. that seems too much for me.
#10
there is a guy on this forum that has a signature/picture that has a bunch of bars. i've been thinking about the added () value of some of those...
i'm intrigued with the bar that goes on the top back of the vehicle... i've thought about getting something like that and putting carpeting on it so it blend with the car more...
i'd consider strut bars. the sport has sways, front and back so i don't think i'd look into replacing them with thicker bars. that seems too much for me.
i'm intrigued with the bar that goes on the top back of the vehicle... i've thought about getting something like that and putting carpeting on it so it blend with the car more...
i'd consider strut bars. the sport has sways, front and back so i don't think i'd look into replacing them with thicker bars. that seems too much for me.
#11
I am the only one so far with the c-pillar bar by ultra racing for the GE8 right now so you can join the club. I like having it just plain white I think it looks nice. Here's a pic of the bar in my car let me know if you have any questions, I have a couple of more pics of it too.
was this hard to install?
do you find you got your money worth with this?
#12
was this hard to install?
do you find you got your money worth with this?
It wasn't too hard to install, you just need to remember how the washers go back on. I think it was worth the money since it feels more solid, and the crosswinds I don't feel so much movement. I have a few other parts on the way right now from UR that should compliment one another well with the C-pillar bar.
I have sent you a pm.
do you find you got your money worth with this?
It wasn't too hard to install, you just need to remember how the washers go back on. I think it was worth the money since it feels more solid, and the crosswinds I don't feel so much movement. I have a few other parts on the way right now from UR that should compliment one another well with the C-pillar bar.
I have sent you a pm.
Last edited by ekonetics; 05-20-2009 at 12:00 PM.
#13
The high additive levels in the initial fill are just from Honda's assembly lube. That being said, there's absolutely no reason to change the oil early. But there have been tons of people do so in tons of Hondas. If you want to waste money....
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