Brake line recommendation
#21
Thanks for the responses guys. But, JDM, do you concur with Artisan that with the brake lines I'll only notice a difference while doing canyon runs and such? I would like the effects to be palpable during street driving.
Great news with the Hawks. I'll order them in a few weeks. Even if I don't get the brake lines the Hawks may just be enough to make me content.
Great news with the Hawks. I'll order them in a few weeks. Even if I don't get the brake lines the Hawks may just be enough to make me content.
#22
I really can`t comment on the effect of the brake lines on the USDM GE Fit .. but on my buddys JDM GE8 if made all of the difference in the world in pedal feel on a Daily driver.... but then again I have had cars that I have put brake lines on and I have not noticed jack...
#24
I really can`t comment on the effect of the brake lines on the USDM GE Fit .. but on my buddys JDM GE8 if made all of the difference in the world in pedal feel on a Daily driver.... but then again I have had cars that I have put brake lines on and I have not noticed jack...
seems like maybe USDM brakelines are heavier duty than other markets
due to the higher average speeds? naw, cant be, right?
ive yet to even think about swapping out brake lines on my cars.
#26
J's racing also. Also, though I know this is about pedal feel more then stopping ditance, and these will do nothing to help, J's also has replacement rotors for the GE's on their site. Wish I could speak or read Japanese.
#27
They can and do, but I doubt it under normal driving conditions. If you're tracking your car or attacking a canyon road or a downhill set of mountain switchbacks then your brakes and brake fluid are going to be very hot. It is at these high temperatures that rubber brake hoses begin expanding like a balloon when you press the brake pedal. The brake fluid is stretching the rubber lines instead of acting on the piston and caliper. This leads to both spongy pedal feel as well as increased stopping distances. Braided steel lines will help eliminate this, and if I were using my car for track events I absolutely would install steel lines.
For regular street driving I doubt you would ever know the difference.
For regular street driving I doubt you would ever know the difference.
#28
I would like to substantially improve my brake pedal response. My GE8's pedal requires a lot of effort for stopping power.
I'm thinking of getting Hawk HPS pads for the front, but are there any brake lines out there that will contribute to better stopping power or friction?
I'm thinking of getting Hawk HPS pads for the front, but are there any brake lines out there that will contribute to better stopping power or friction?
There are HP brake lines but they don't contribute much to stopping power, just to long term reliability as we use on our race cars. Your best bet is Hawk front pads HPS 218 if I remember correcrtly. They make a large difference in stopping. And thats not enough get rear wheel disc brakes.
And don't forget that tires make a big difference as well. HiPo tires will stop a lot quicker than the average tire but you have to have improved pads to take advantage of the extra stopping friction.
Last edited by mahout; 03-12-2009 at 07:54 AM.
#29
brake fade can happen in the coldest of climates when you're tracking or going crazy in the canyons.
project mu and j's have SSBB lines? can anyone point me in the right direction?
#30
These are for the GE Fit:
J'S RACING JAPAN
There are two sets. The more expensive one reads "Stainless" (JPY42,000) while the other reads "Olive Chrome (?) (JPY33,600)"
Pardon my Japanese as it's not very good. HTHs
J'S RACING JAPAN
There are two sets. The more expensive one reads "Stainless" (JPY42,000) while the other reads "Olive Chrome (?) (JPY33,600)"
Pardon my Japanese as it's not very good. HTHs
#31
There are HP brake lines but they don't contribute much to stopping power, just to long term reliability as we use on our race cars. Your best bet is Hawk front pads HPS 218 if I remember correcrtly. They make a large difference in stopping. And thats not enough get rear wheel disc brakes.
Don't forget tires. The most important item is the friction level between the tire and road.
#32
for those who said brake lines are useless why those tuning cars still running them?
Project Mu, Js racing, Mugen, APP,Goodridge brake lines for GD,GE are made by Stainless steel compare stock rubber one. it will help to provide constant brake pressure, the pedal feeling will be the less spongy and more firmer.
its definitely helps and works well compare to stock!
personal experience though!
Project Mu, Js racing, Mugen, APP,Goodridge brake lines for GD,GE are made by Stainless steel compare stock rubber one. it will help to provide constant brake pressure, the pedal feeling will be the less spongy and more firmer.
its definitely helps and works well compare to stock!
personal experience though!
#35
On my previous car (2004 STi), I installed goodridge lines, and they worked as they were supposed to, but I couldn't tell that big of a difference, the brakes on that car were already excellent.
To the OP - How old is the brake fluid, what brake fluid are you using, and have you flushed the lines yet? Remember that brake fluid is hygroscopic, and absorbs water over time that will become vapor at the higher temperatures, and then will cause bubbles in the fluid over time. Try replacing the fluid first, and see if that helps. This is assuming that the car isn't brand new (when my fit was brand new, the brakes felt fine for the car).
I haven't done this in my fit yet, but I plan on using ATE Super Blue brake fluid for my flush. It is a good value in terms of hygroscopic tendencies, and boiling points (dry and wet). As the name implies, it is also blue, so you know when you have removed all of the old fluid, and have completely new fluid in.
The following year (or when you want to do another flush), you can use the ATE Type 200, which is the same fluid, but amber, so that you know when all of the blue fluid is out, you have replaced all of it in the system. This is what I did when I still owned the STi.
I also have to reiterate what others have said here - it doesn't matter how good your brake system is if you have horrible tires. If you still have the OEM dunlops, replace those with the brakes as well, and you should notice a significant difference.
To the OP - How old is the brake fluid, what brake fluid are you using, and have you flushed the lines yet? Remember that brake fluid is hygroscopic, and absorbs water over time that will become vapor at the higher temperatures, and then will cause bubbles in the fluid over time. Try replacing the fluid first, and see if that helps. This is assuming that the car isn't brand new (when my fit was brand new, the brakes felt fine for the car).
I haven't done this in my fit yet, but I plan on using ATE Super Blue brake fluid for my flush. It is a good value in terms of hygroscopic tendencies, and boiling points (dry and wet). As the name implies, it is also blue, so you know when you have removed all of the old fluid, and have completely new fluid in.
The following year (or when you want to do another flush), you can use the ATE Type 200, which is the same fluid, but amber, so that you know when all of the blue fluid is out, you have replaced all of it in the system. This is what I did when I still owned the STi.
I also have to reiterate what others have said here - it doesn't matter how good your brake system is if you have horrible tires. If you still have the OEM dunlops, replace those with the brakes as well, and you should notice a significant difference.
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