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Brake line recommendation

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  #21  
Old 12-19-2008, 12:28 PM
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Thanks for the responses guys. But, JDM, do you concur with Artisan that with the brake lines I'll only notice a difference while doing canyon runs and such? I would like the effects to be palpable during street driving.

Great news with the Hawks. I'll order them in a few weeks. Even if I don't get the brake lines the Hawks may just be enough to make me content.
 
  #22  
Old 12-19-2008, 01:08 PM
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I really can`t comment on the effect of the brake lines on the USDM GE Fit .. but on my buddys JDM GE8 if made all of the difference in the world in pedal feel on a Daily driver.... but then again I have had cars that I have put brake lines on and I have not noticed jack...
 
  #23  
Old 01-14-2009, 11:33 AM
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two words for you - GREENSTUFF! or is that one word?
 
  #24  
Old 01-14-2009, 11:58 AM
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Originally Posted by JDM_DOHC_SiR
I really can`t comment on the effect of the brake lines on the USDM GE Fit .. but on my buddys JDM GE8 if made all of the difference in the world in pedal feel on a Daily driver.... but then again I have had cars that I have put brake lines on and I have not noticed jack...
yah, that has been my repetitive experience too... not sure, but
seems like maybe USDM brakelines are heavier duty than other markets
due to the higher average speeds? naw, cant be, right?

ive yet to even think about swapping out brake lines on my cars.
 
  #25  
Old 03-10-2009, 11:49 AM
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Project Mu brake lines already available for GE8 FIT.
 
  #26  
Old 03-10-2009, 12:11 PM
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Originally Posted by FITGD3
Project Mu brake lines already available for GE8 FIT.
J's racing also. Also, though I know this is about pedal feel more then stopping ditance, and these will do nothing to help, J's also has replacement rotors for the GE's on their site. Wish I could speak or read Japanese.
 
  #27  
Old 03-10-2009, 01:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Artisan
They can and do, but I doubt it under normal driving conditions. If you're tracking your car or attacking a canyon road or a downhill set of mountain switchbacks then your brakes and brake fluid are going to be very hot. It is at these high temperatures that rubber brake hoses begin expanding like a balloon when you press the brake pedal. The brake fluid is stretching the rubber lines instead of acting on the piston and caliper. This leads to both spongy pedal feel as well as increased stopping distances. Braided steel lines will help eliminate this, and if I were using my car for track events I absolutely would install steel lines.

For regular street driving I doubt you would ever know the difference.
So you would never reach that temp tipping point on a hot summer day with a full day of driving?
 
  #28  
Old 03-11-2009, 07:21 PM
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Originally Posted by CrystalFiveMT
I would like to substantially improve my brake pedal response. My GE8's pedal requires a lot of effort for stopping power.

I'm thinking of getting Hawk HPS pads for the front, but are there any brake lines out there that will contribute to better stopping power or friction?

There are HP brake lines but they don't contribute much to stopping power, just to long term reliability as we use on our race cars. Your best bet is Hawk front pads HPS 218 if I remember correcrtly. They make a large difference in stopping. And thats not enough get rear wheel disc brakes.
And don't forget that tires make a big difference as well. HiPo tires will stop a lot quicker than the average tire but you have to have improved pads to take advantage of the extra stopping friction.
 

Last edited by mahout; 03-12-2009 at 07:54 AM.
  #29  
Old 03-12-2009, 02:30 AM
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Originally Posted by minnemike
So you would never reach that temp tipping point on a hot summer day with a full day of driving?
brake fade does not happen on the hottest of days when you're driving in the city.

brake fade can happen in the coldest of climates when you're tracking or going crazy in the canyons.

project mu and j's have SSBB lines? can anyone point me in the right direction?
 
  #30  
Old 03-12-2009, 05:52 AM
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These are for the GE Fit:
J'S RACING JAPAN

There are two sets. The more expensive one reads "Stainless" (JPY42,000) while the other reads "Olive Chrome (?) (JPY33,600)"

Pardon my Japanese as it's not very good. HTHs
 
  #31  
Old 03-12-2009, 07:51 AM
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Originally Posted by mahout
There are HP brake lines but they don't contribute much to stopping power, just to long term reliability as we use on our race cars. Your best bet is Hawk front pads HPS 218 if I remember correcrtly. They make a large difference in stopping. And thats not enough get rear wheel disc brakes.

Don't forget tires. The most important item is the friction level between the tire and road.
 
  #32  
Old 03-12-2009, 10:00 AM
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for those who said brake lines are useless why those tuning cars still running them?

Project Mu, Js racing, Mugen, APP,Goodridge brake lines for GD,GE are made by Stainless steel compare stock rubber one. it will help to provide constant brake pressure, the pedal feeling will be the less spongy and more firmer.

its definitely helps and works well compare to stock!

personal experience though!
 
  #33  
Old 03-12-2009, 10:36 AM
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PROJECT MU PADS WITH STAINLESS LINES AND STOCK ROTORS

good set up

personal experience also

also have a guy running this on his S2000 and he loves it.
 
  #34  
Old 01-13-2010, 09:16 PM
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Anyone have any specific recs for brands of stainless steel lines? How are the goodridge ones?
 
  #35  
Old 01-16-2010, 11:30 AM
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On my previous car (2004 STi), I installed goodridge lines, and they worked as they were supposed to, but I couldn't tell that big of a difference, the brakes on that car were already excellent.

To the OP - How old is the brake fluid, what brake fluid are you using, and have you flushed the lines yet? Remember that brake fluid is hygroscopic, and absorbs water over time that will become vapor at the higher temperatures, and then will cause bubbles in the fluid over time. Try replacing the fluid first, and see if that helps. This is assuming that the car isn't brand new (when my fit was brand new, the brakes felt fine for the car).

I haven't done this in my fit yet, but I plan on using ATE Super Blue brake fluid for my flush. It is a good value in terms of hygroscopic tendencies, and boiling points (dry and wet). As the name implies, it is also blue, so you know when you have removed all of the old fluid, and have completely new fluid in.

The following year (or when you want to do another flush), you can use the ATE Type 200, which is the same fluid, but amber, so that you know when all of the blue fluid is out, you have replaced all of it in the system. This is what I did when I still owned the STi.

I also have to reiterate what others have said here - it doesn't matter how good your brake system is if you have horrible tires. If you still have the OEM dunlops, replace those with the brakes as well, and you should notice a significant difference.
 
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