Take a gander at this BEIOTCHES!
#21
That would be a BAD idea.
Use 5W-20
The *W-30 is way too thick and out of spec.
Not recomended by anyone.......
PS with 46.3 avg you could of gone 574miles to empty so 500 with margin
You have an honest 1.8 gal after the E light comes on and in you case, about 80 miles
I went well over 100 miles Wed at 48ishmpg
Here's my 1st fill UOA
Use 5W-20
The *W-30 is way too thick and out of spec.
Not recomended by anyone.......
PS with 46.3 avg you could of gone 574miles to empty so 500 with margin
You have an honest 1.8 gal after the E light comes on and in you case, about 80 miles
I went well over 100 miles Wed at 48ishmpg
Here's my 1st fill UOA
Last edited by pcs0snq; 08-10-2008 at 09:04 AM.
#22
If you can find some documentation substantiating a detrimental effect to the engine, I'm all open.
It's well known that a synthetic oil has better flow characteristics than conventional oil. So it it would make sense that a high quality 30 weight synthetic should flow as well or better than a 20 weight conventional. I really doubt there is any danger to damage, as I've seen turbo Honda guys running 20w-50 oil in there stock B16s with no problems. If anything, the only problem I can see is a drop in MPG's, which if there is a significant drop, I will switch to 5w-20.
It's well known that a synthetic oil has better flow characteristics than conventional oil. So it it would make sense that a high quality 30 weight synthetic should flow as well or better than a 20 weight conventional. I really doubt there is any danger to damage, as I've seen turbo Honda guys running 20w-50 oil in there stock B16s with no problems. If anything, the only problem I can see is a drop in MPG's, which if there is a significant drop, I will switch to 5w-20.
Last edited by Buzzbomb; 08-10-2008 at 12:23 PM.
#24
1: I'm not 100% sure that the 5w-20 weight recommendation is based on the engine design and not to raise the CAFE MPG average like Honda and several other manufactures did in 2001.
Case in point, a friend switched to synthetic oil in 2 of his cars, a 99 Cougar, and 01 Focus. Both cars had the EXACT same engine, but the Cougar called for 5w30 and the Focus 5w20.
HOWEVER, I realize that the L15 is a newer engine and could have been designed with the lighter weight in mind, but I haven't found any info to verify.
2: Both of my other cars run on 5w30 and it's easier and cheaper to buy one oil in bulk. And because I know that the only really problem that may occur is a drop in mpg, I'm willing to give it a shot.
#25
If you can find some documentation substantiating a detrimental effect to the engine, I'm all open.
It's well known that a synthetic oil has better flow characteristics than conventional oil. So it it would make sense that a high quality 30 weight synthetic should flow as well or better than a 20 weight conventional. I really doubt there is any danger to damage, as I've seen turbo Honda guys running 20w-50 oil in there stock B16s with no problems. If anything, the only problem I can see is a drop in MPG's, which if there is a significant drop, I will switch to 5w-20.
It's well known that a synthetic oil has better flow characteristics than conventional oil. So it it would make sense that a high quality 30 weight synthetic should flow as well or better than a 20 weight conventional. I really doubt there is any danger to damage, as I've seen turbo Honda guys running 20w-50 oil in there stock B16s with no problems. If anything, the only problem I can see is a drop in MPG's, which if there is a significant drop, I will switch to 5w-20.
#26
What you think is well known is not. In fact no data at all to support most of what you just said. Go ask any of that on the Bob is the oil guy site... I paid an OIL consultant, Terry Dyson for a few years to learn what I know now. All I can do is try and help you. You will not be the 1st one to not listen to experience. Good luck.
#27
Here's what I recommend
Run the factor oil SAE 5W-20 while in warranty, that's a given. When it's out or you will not take it back if you have issues, get a oil pressure gauge and see what the Pressure is HOT at idle and cruse RPM's. Lower the oil 100csT weight and see what you have. Try a xW-10 1st. If the pressure is no less than 25psi at idle and 50psi at cruse your good.
Lighter oil does two things Better
FE and
higher flow rates (better cooling and filtering)
both are good things.
Re/ Synthetic base stock. It's will take higher temps before failing, but other than that, it's no different by design than non. The Fit eng temp is so far below those temps it does not matter. It's more for HD applications that you need that help. It also will not shear out of grade as easy as mineral oil. That's some of the WHY why you can run it longer. extended service.
The additive package makes the oil do better and that's closely linked to the cost.
Order this and listen to it. There's a great deal more to this.
Racing Oil Analysis: Terry Dyson
No way I can explain it all on here.
Amsoil is a good oil, but considered expensive unless your hooked up.
I plan to use a decent mineral oil and change it based on the test results. As with my other cars and how this 1.5L is made I expect to get 6 to 7,000 miles per change and at $3/qt spend no more than $172 over 100k miles + filters. I have done that for the last 30 years and have gone way over 250k mikes with perfect engine at the end. I do not mind changing that often as I feel even with a oil 2 or 3x the cost, you still have to do the filter.
#28
Ok, good enough. I should probably stay within recommended weight while in warranty, I'll agree to that.
I may not go as far as installing a oil pressure gauge, but I just checked Amsoil application guide, it lists 0w20, 5w20, and 0w30 as compatible oils so I should at least stick to that.
I've been doing 1 year oil and filter changes in my cars for several years with analysis results so the Amsoil is cheaper in the long run.
I may not go as far as installing a oil pressure gauge, but I just checked Amsoil application guide, it lists 0w20, 5w20, and 0w30 as compatible oils so I should at least stick to that.
I've been doing 1 year oil and filter changes in my cars for several years with analysis results so the Amsoil is cheaper in the long run.
#29
BTW
1 year on an oil change and cheaper? Please share some details
Miles in a year?
Did you do the recommended filter? How many per year?
Cost per qt delivered for your Amsoil?
#30
A case of oil and 4 filters cost approx $150. (If I had more time I'd get an exact number) That would last me 4 years.
I drive around 15,000 miles a year. So going by the 3,000 mile / 3 month rule I'd be spending about $13 an oil change 4 times, so $52 a year by 4 years = $208
But for me it's more about the time savings than money savings. Once a year changes on 3 cars is the advantage for me.
#31
Is this the 5W-30 you use?
AMSOIL - Extended Life 5W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil (XLF)
Is it this oil filter
AMSOIL - AMSOIL Ea Oil Filter (EaO)
AMSOIL - Extended Life 5W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil (XLF)
Is it this oil filter
AMSOIL - AMSOIL Ea Oil Filter (EaO)
#33
I do not see a 5W-20 in that top end version.
Looks like the ASMQT 0W-20 in Amsoil will be you only option.
The effect of the 0W-XX will be gone in 10 min and may be good in a cold area from what I hear.
Can you post some UOA after one year and 15,000 miles on this deal? I'd like to look at a few test details.
Looks like the ASMQT 0W-20 in Amsoil will be you only option.
The effect of the 0W-XX will be gone in 10 min and may be good in a cold area from what I hear.
Can you post some UOA after one year and 15,000 miles on this deal? I'd like to look at a few test details.
#34
I'd be happy to post some results up when I accrue the mileage.
#35
Buzzbomb
I have many from my V6 Accord I can post. Shell Clean 10W-30 that I took to 7,000 miles many times. Guys over on BITOG thought it was good stuff.
I use Blackstone Labs. What about you?
Do you have any tests from the other car's you mentioned that you went 1 year and about 15,000 miles on the Amsoil?
I was also wondering how that extended interval will work out with Honda's comments about oil in the Owner manual. What I read was it has to go at 15% ish regardless of it being top shelf oil or not. Could be a warranty concern?
I have many from my V6 Accord I can post. Shell Clean 10W-30 that I took to 7,000 miles many times. Guys over on BITOG thought it was good stuff.
I use Blackstone Labs. What about you?
Do you have any tests from the other car's you mentioned that you went 1 year and about 15,000 miles on the Amsoil?
I was also wondering how that extended interval will work out with Honda's comments about oil in the Owner manual. What I read was it has to go at 15% ish regardless of it being top shelf oil or not. Could be a warranty concern?
#37
Do you have in with 15k miles and 1 year of service? I thought that's is what you had been doing?? Interesting the Blackstone comments. It did not look like they would like to see it go 15k as the TBN is pretty low already.
#40
My bad sorry!
But look at the good side. All the oil info you ever dreamed of needing.
Actually the thread starter is a old bud on another form I frequent with me being close to 11,000 posts (10,000 showing) ... maybe he will chime in lol
But look at the good side. All the oil info you ever dreamed of needing.
Actually the thread starter is a old bud on another form I frequent with me being close to 11,000 posts (10,000 showing) ... maybe he will chime in lol