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HELP removing side molding... UGH

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  #1  
Old 06-05-2008, 11:29 PM
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HELP removing side molding... UGH

I bought the zeta side molding and I f*cked it up guys. After spending forever lining the masking tape up, measuring etc (easy install my ass) I stuck these things on there and now I am realizing that the two sections (front and rear doors) are further apart than they should be. There is a nice big fat gap between the two and it looks like sh*t.

I want them OFF.

Is there any SAFE way to remove this 3M adhesive taped on plastic crap from my brand new car without ruining the paint job?????

F*ck...

The gap was my fault, but honestly I don't feel like the 4 pieces of plastic I got were worth anywhere near $109.

I just want them off and in the dumpster and my nice clean looking car back. I'll take my chances with dings. HELP.
 
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Old 06-05-2008, 11:34 PM
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i'd say the safest route is to buy some adhesive remover, but since it's still fresh i'd try some warm water or steam if you can and then slowly remove and carefully watch. Got the steam idea becasue i had to get my windows retinted cuz they cut it wrong and they used a steam thing to loosen the adhesive
 
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Old 06-05-2008, 11:38 PM
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Try using a blow dryer to soften the adhesive. Be super careful and if you at all doubt yourself see how much a body shop will charge to remove them. They will probably go about it the same way.

Originally Posted by From another site.
How do I remove my existing factory emblems?
If you would like to remove your original factory emblem(s) before installing your unique or custom made emblem you'll need the following:
*Blow Dryer or Heat Gun
*Waxed Dental Floss/ Rubber wedge
*Damp Microfiber Towel
*Cotton Balls/Rubbing Alcohol

Step 1- Begin to heat your factory emblem from 4-6 inches away (spreading motion to insure even exposure to heat) for approximately 3-4 minutes with Blow Dryer, 1-2 minutes with Heat Gun. Small letter emblems should practically fall off, larger badge emblems may take additional time depending upon size. Most factory auto paint finishes can withstand extreme heat from this distance/time period without any adverse reactions (fading/discoloration). However, others may not depending upon the age/quality of your automobile. Use your best judgement in regards to time of heat exposure to your auto finish. NOTE: Exotic Emblems will not be held responsible for any adverse reactions during any removal/installation process.

Step 2- If using Waxed Dental Floss begin a sawing motion on either left or right edge working behind the emblem until emblem is removed. If using rubber wedge be very carefull not to press the opposite edge of the emblem into our paint finish causing a blemish. Note: Some newer model vehicles use additional emblem clips which are inserted into holes made in the sheetmetal. In this case grasp the emblem from both sides and carefully rock back and forth while pulling outward.

Step 3- Quickly and vigorously rub the excess factory adhesive residue with the Damp Microfiber Towel/cloth. Do not attempt this process with a regular terry cloth. For stubborn adhesive residue removal add a small amount of a mild adhesive remover. Once the excess adhesive is removed use a standard rubbing alcohol and cotton balls to prepare the surface for your new emblem.
 
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Old 06-05-2008, 11:40 PM
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A few things you'll need:

Dental Floss
Goo-Gone
Hair Dryer/Heat Gun

Use the dental floss behind the molding to separate it from your car. Heat the tape with the heat gun and see if you can get it off. If not, soak the tape on the car with goo-gone. slowly pick at it with your nails. Continue soaking the tape until the adhesive starts to give way and you should be able to remove the residue from the remaining tape easily.
 
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Old 06-05-2008, 11:47 PM
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Heat gun (low temp!)
Fine wire (I use piano)
And Gone (the paint prep)
Heat slow and pull through the tape with the wire.
I could get both mouldings off and clean it up in about 40 minutes.
Its not a big deal. I would reapply the tape and try again.
Many body shops screw this up also so your not alone.
 
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Old 06-05-2008, 11:59 PM
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dental fross mang
 
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Old 06-06-2008, 12:03 AM
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Yeah for sure use waxed floss. Wire may scratch the paint due to it being harder than the paint.
 
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Old 06-06-2008, 12:10 AM
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fishing line!

heat gun...

and goo off!


yeah.......
 
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Old 06-06-2008, 12:12 AM
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It's tape not gorilla glue, just take it off...
 
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Old 06-06-2008, 12:14 AM
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its double sided tape though...that could strip the paint


and that too...double sided tape is super strong.


heat gun(low temp)


and go little by little.....start from one side then go to the other of course.
 
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Old 06-06-2008, 12:16 AM
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double sided tape won't strip paint.
 
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Old 06-06-2008, 01:01 AM
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Thanks guys, I really appreciate the quick and helpful replies.

I've got waxed floss and a hair dryer. I'm not brave enough to use piano wire! I'm going to pick up some goo gone at Home Depot tomorrow. Hopefully this will not be too much of a PITA. Ugh.

I really doubt that I am going to go through all that b.s. again to put the molding back on after that. I'll stick it in a closet for a rainy day...maybe.

 
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Old 06-06-2008, 02:27 AM
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blow drier + fingernails + wax job afterwards
 
  #14  
Old 06-06-2008, 02:42 AM
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I used goof off to remove the adhesive from a dealer sticker. It didn't seem to bother the Honda paint but I was careful not to leave it on long. YMMV

When I replaced the faded emblems on my Saab, I just pulled them off. The foam tape separated. More goof off to get off the remaining foam and adhesive.
 
  #15  
Old 06-06-2008, 06:10 AM
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Bug and tar remover works well on adhesives, too.
 
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Old 06-06-2008, 08:44 AM
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You wont damage the paint just pulling them off, so go to town. What I always use to remove adhesive is Afta, can get it at Home Depot and it works awesome. Been using to for years. Matter if fact I just used it to remove adhesive from the Fot roof, after the idiot shop that tinted my windows F'ed it up, when I had them redo it they somehow got adhesive up there. Morons.
 
  #17  
Old 06-06-2008, 10:03 AM
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Your best bet if you ever decide to put em back on is to just use your eyes when you line em up. At the dealership I used to work at I'd just call over a buddy and have them stand at the front or rear of the car and eyeball height while I judged side to side.
 
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Old 06-06-2008, 10:59 AM
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I put mine on last week, and had a buddy help. It makes it a lot easier to have someone help. I know the directions say that the adhesive promoter will fade the paint, so you may end up having to put them back on if it did. it didnt seem like it did for me, but after some time it might have. Good luck with it!
 
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Old 06-06-2008, 11:08 AM
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Good double sided tape is very strong and the adhesive will not give way. Instead the foam between the two adhesive sides will give way before the adhesive does. If you want to preserve the side moldings so you can either re-sell or re-install, the heat gun + floss + goo gone is the way to go. You could just yank them off, but you'll break the moldings and will still leave adhesive behind. Goo Gone has been safe on all vehicle paint surfaces I've used it on including my Fit, friends black Civic, G35, and a C320. Definitely recommend waxing over the area treated with the goo gone!
 
  #20  
Old 06-06-2008, 02:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Rod2Rice
I know the directions say that the adhesive promoter will fade the paint..
I know. I'm a little concerned about that. I'm thinking I will be able to take care of it though. I'm going to try and get around to this tonight, I'm really not looking forward to all the work though.
 


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