What you DONT like about your Fit
#2481
Heater always slightly on.
I haven't seen others complain, but two dealers gave me the same song and dance: air intake is pulling hot air from the engine. My 2011 Fit Sport MT seems to always have some heat added to the fresh air from the vents. In 70F weather it should be possible to drive around without A/C, but I get 78F from the vents. Anyone else notice this?
#2482
I live in a hilly area and have a steep driveway. After 36K miles my front spoiler is worn through from the brief scrape at every entrance or exit. I just replaced the tires on my 2011 Fit Sport MT, and opted for one size larger 195-55R16 (from 185-55R16). Not sure if I would scrape if the spoiler were'nt worn, but it doesn't now. Bonus from the change is that my cruising rpm is 5% lower, and for some reason the speedo didn't lose calibration. It still is perfect vs my GPS.
Your speed would only be 1.1mph off. 1.8% DIFFERENCE
I doubt you would notice at all.
I ran 205/60/15s, about 3/4 quarters inch taller then factory (185/55/16 is exactly same as base 175/65/15). I did NOT rub at all except over HARSH bumps and VERY harder cornering. That is even with a rear swaybar and VERY stiff lowering springs (1.8 or 2.0 inch drop)
Even with those, my speedo is only 1.8mph off, reading 60 when vehicle speed should be 61.8mph
not a big difference, but it was definitely more comfy!
#2483
I haven't seen others complain, but two dealers gave me the same song and dance: air intake is pulling hot air from the engine. My 2011 Fit Sport MT seems to always have some heat added to the fresh air from the vents. In 70F weather it should be possible to drive around without A/C, but I get 78F from the vents. Anyone else notice this?
If you have the air itnake moved from recirc to fresh air, you are taking in air that passes over the engine bay. Its pretty warm.
Its of course going to be warmer.
It feels good when temps are about 60 or so *F
#2485
Nice gentle warm breeze when its a cool day, but dont wanna screw with fan settings
#2486
The vent air is warmer than ambient with the control set at cold, fan on, fresh air. The air flows over the outside of the hood to the intake in front of the windshield. The hood has a gasket full width at the top, so engine cooling airflow should exit elsewhere. Yes it's fine when ambient is 60, but it just seems odd that it gets so much warming, and it's annoying to need a/c when the outside air is so comfortable.
#2487
speedo vs larger tires
Your speed would only be 1.1mph off. 1.8% DIFFERENCE
I doubt you would notice at all.
I ran 205/60/15s, about 3/4 quarters inch taller then factory (185/55/16 is exactly same as base 175/65/15). I did NOT rub at all except over HARSH bumps and VERY harder cornering. That is even with a rear swaybar and VERY stiff lowering springs (1.8 or 2.0 inch drop)
Even with those, my speedo is only 1.8mph off, reading 60 when vehicle speed should be 61.8mph
not a big difference, but it was definitely more comfy!
I doubt you would notice at all.
I ran 205/60/15s, about 3/4 quarters inch taller then factory (185/55/16 is exactly same as base 175/65/15). I did NOT rub at all except over HARSH bumps and VERY harder cornering. That is even with a rear swaybar and VERY stiff lowering springs (1.8 or 2.0 inch drop)
Even with those, my speedo is only 1.8mph off, reading 60 when vehicle speed should be 61.8mph
not a big difference, but it was definitely more comfy!
#2489
hot air
I haven't seen others complain, but two dealers gave me the same song and dance: air intake is pulling hot air from the engine. My 2011 Fit Sport MT seems to always have some heat added to the fresh air from the vents. In 70F weather it should be possible to drive around without iA/C, but I get 78F from the vents. Anyone else notice this?
#2490
1. My armrest wore out in about 5,000 miles.
2. Seats are not comfortable for a 5+ hour trip.
3. Hondata not caring
4. Body/Track width front vs rear. My 15x8 track wheels stick out in front but not rear
5. Because I wanted a number 5.
2. Seats are not comfortable for a 5+ hour trip.
3. Hondata not caring
4. Body/Track width front vs rear. My 15x8 track wheels stick out in front but not rear
5. Because I wanted a number 5.
#2491
always get some heat
I also noticed that when my aircon and heater is off , I get hot air . I discovered that if you put the temp setting on cold , it solves the hot air coming out . I think that if you have it on high temp setting , the flap that let's hot air out stays open allowing the heater radiator air to escape into the cabin. Or it could be that the valve controling the heated water from the engine is open and allowing it to pass through the heater radiator inside the cabin.please let me know if switching to colder temp works . Btw I have a 2013 jazz with automatic climate control. (It has a digital display)
#2492
I think this is how it works:
The "heater" in a car is a small radiator located within the passenger compartment. There is a valve that determines whether or not hot engine coolant is allowed to circulate to this tiny radiator. This valve is hooked up to your cold/hot knob (or lever in old cars.) In the "Cold" position, no hot water circulates into this radiator. As you start turning the knob towards "Hot," more and more heated water is allowed to circulate into this small radiator (which is called the heater core.) The passenger compartment will start getting warmer --- just because this object is being warmed.
When you turn on the heater fan, air is blown through this small radiator --- and this air is able to pick up that heat MUCH more efficiently. But even if the fan is "OFF" the passengers will be able to feel the heat just wafting off of the heater core.
If you wish your car to remain unheated, make SURE the heater knob is turned ALL the way to the cold position! That way, ALL the hot water remains in the engine. With the heater turned ALL the way to cold, the fan will blow ONLY unheated air.
If the VALVE is not adjusted properly, it MIGHT be letting some hot water pass through---even if your knob is in the cold position. The linkage would
need to be adjusted.
I believe this is the way car heaters have works at least as far back as the 1940's
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Or... you might try this:
But I believe that if I were to go through all that trouble, I'd go the extra mile and figure out how to make the engine run off of the energy of the burning wood.
Carry a chain saw, avoid driving through desert areas, and you could make that car run forever. But, be nice and don't cut down someones prized shade tree.
The "heater" in a car is a small radiator located within the passenger compartment. There is a valve that determines whether or not hot engine coolant is allowed to circulate to this tiny radiator. This valve is hooked up to your cold/hot knob (or lever in old cars.) In the "Cold" position, no hot water circulates into this radiator. As you start turning the knob towards "Hot," more and more heated water is allowed to circulate into this small radiator (which is called the heater core.) The passenger compartment will start getting warmer --- just because this object is being warmed.
When you turn on the heater fan, air is blown through this small radiator --- and this air is able to pick up that heat MUCH more efficiently. But even if the fan is "OFF" the passengers will be able to feel the heat just wafting off of the heater core.
If you wish your car to remain unheated, make SURE the heater knob is turned ALL the way to the cold position! That way, ALL the hot water remains in the engine. With the heater turned ALL the way to cold, the fan will blow ONLY unheated air.
If the VALVE is not adjusted properly, it MIGHT be letting some hot water pass through---even if your knob is in the cold position. The linkage would
need to be adjusted.
I believe this is the way car heaters have works at least as far back as the 1940's
----------
Or... you might try this:
But I believe that if I were to go through all that trouble, I'd go the extra mile and figure out how to make the engine run off of the energy of the burning wood.
Carry a chain saw, avoid driving through desert areas, and you could make that car run forever. But, be nice and don't cut down someones prized shade tree.
#2493
I believe the Fit and newer Civics do not have at heater control valve that controls coolant. The heater core has hot coolant flowing through it all the time. A motorized door controls air flow across the heater core. If the door is misadjusted or not working, you'll have issues.
You always have a 190F heater core in the same box as the evaporator. I believe this is one reason our Fits tend to have poor post hot-soak AC performance.
Honda went away from a vacuum controlled system to an electronic one. Unfortunately in economy cars the cost of a motorized coolant control valve isn't in the design budget. I've been tempted to install an old-fashioned vacuum controlled heater coolant valve to shut off heater core coolant flow in the summer time.
You always have a 190F heater core in the same box as the evaporator. I believe this is one reason our Fits tend to have poor post hot-soak AC performance.
Honda went away from a vacuum controlled system to an electronic one. Unfortunately in economy cars the cost of a motorized coolant control valve isn't in the design budget. I've been tempted to install an old-fashioned vacuum controlled heater coolant valve to shut off heater core coolant flow in the summer time.
#2494
they have not been vacuum controlled for over 30 years in hondas.
Gm still did them in the 2000s though.
whats the big debate? all cars and trucks have a heatercore that is nice and toasty. that is not the reason why the Fits AC is not superb. Who truly thinks the BUDGET car needs to perform perfectly?
You guys are expecting too much from a car that cost under $20k
Gm still did them in the 2000s though.
whats the big debate? all cars and trucks have a heatercore that is nice and toasty. that is not the reason why the Fits AC is not superb. Who truly thinks the BUDGET car needs to perform perfectly?
You guys are expecting too much from a car that cost under $20k
#2496
I hate two things so far:
1. The automatic driver's window button. Difficult to only put the window down an inch or two without it trying to go down all the way. Maybe it's me, but it really annoys me, especially while I'm driving.
2. The "high" beams aren't as "high" (i.e. don't light up as much in front of me) as my Ford Contour's headlights did.
1. The automatic driver's window button. Difficult to only put the window down an inch or two without it trying to go down all the way. Maybe it's me, but it really annoys me, especially while I'm driving.
2. The "high" beams aren't as "high" (i.e. don't light up as much in front of me) as my Ford Contour's headlights did.
#2497
I also do not like the driver's window "auto" feature. There is a trick to it though.
From the owner's manual:
■ Automatic operation
To open: Push the switch down firmly.
To close: Pull the switch up firmly.
The window opens or closes completely. To
stop the window at any time, push or pull the
switch briefly.
■ Manual operation
To open: Push the switch down lightly, and
hold it until the desired position is reached.
To close: Pull the switch up lightly, and hold it
until the desired position is reached.
From the owner's manual:
■ Automatic operation
To open: Push the switch down firmly.
To close: Pull the switch up firmly.
The window opens or closes completely. To
stop the window at any time, push or pull the
switch briefly.
■ Manual operation
To open: Push the switch down lightly, and
hold it until the desired position is reached.
To close: Pull the switch up lightly, and hold it
until the desired position is reached.
#2498
It is definitely a shame that you are not as capable of blinding other motorists as you were previously.
#2499
I don't keep my high beams on when other motorists are approaching. But I would like to be able to see ahead of me in total darkness in farm country better than my Fit allows (compared to my previous car). There are a lot of critters that run across the road around here, and I'd prefer to see them before they get in line with my tires.
#2500
your highbeams are probably dull and worn out since the automatic daytime lights use the highbeam circuit at a lower voltage, causing excessive wear and tear.
Much easier to remove the DRL fuse and simply turn your parking lights on. and of course get new bulbs since yours are worn out.
factory bulbs are plenty bright when they are fresh
Much easier to remove the DRL fuse and simply turn your parking lights on. and of course get new bulbs since yours are worn out.
factory bulbs are plenty bright when they are fresh