Idle Learn Procedure
#21
08-20-2006 | 03:37 PM
New Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 8
From: Champaign,IL
Originally Posted by VelociRacer
Before you get jerked around further by the Honda clowns, do yourself a favour and try the Idle Learn Procedure. To shorten the length of this process, do this:
1- Making sure you have your radio code, remove the Backup/Radio fuse in your engine compartment fuse box. Re-install after 2 minutes. Close the hood.
2- Making sure no electrical items are on, even the dome light, start the car and rev between 2k-3k rpm until the fan comes on once. Let it idle until the fan comes one the second time.
3- Let the car idle for another 10 minutes after the second fan cycle and you're done!
This is not going to hurt your car, it can only help it find the right computer settings if you're not happy about mileage, etc.
1- Making sure you have your radio code, remove the Backup/Radio fuse in your engine compartment fuse box. Re-install after 2 minutes. Close the hood.
2- Making sure no electrical items are on, even the dome light, start the car and rev between 2k-3k rpm until the fan comes on once. Let it idle until the fan comes one the second time.
3- Let the car idle for another 10 minutes after the second fan cycle and you're done!
This is not going to hurt your car, it can only help it find the right computer settings if you're not happy about mileage, etc.
#22
08-21-2006 | 10:29 AM
Member
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 89
From: Phoenix, Arizona USA
Originally Posted by claymore
People if you are expecting any mileage change from the Idle rest procedure don't hold your breath. All that does is to allow the ECU to reset itself after you disconnect the battery. Then it allows for your driving style and chooses what map to use and then later it refines the process so resetting it just makes it start over and gets you right back to where it was set before you disconnected it. It also just resets the idle to the cars specs. no better no worse. No magic in this procedure.
I'm with you on this one. I performed this only as a last resort, basically grasping at straws to help things. I know that on my Toyotas this is the same thing and will affect emmisions more than anything.
All things equal, I've got to suspect ECU problems, but if it was burning so rich I'd expect to see artifacts of this in the tail pipe.
bob
#23
08-21-2006 | 09:57 PM
Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 30
From: folsom, CA
claymore...
In regards to the "idle learn procedure", if the vehicles computer was going to learn how you drive and the conditions where it is driven by itself so it can maximize whatever honda has programed into it, why have a Idle learn procedure at all?
In regards to the "idle learn procedure", if the vehicles computer was going to learn how you drive and the conditions where it is driven by itself so it can maximize whatever honda has programed into it, why have a Idle learn procedure at all?
#24
08-26-2006 | 11:32 PM
Member
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 191
From: Pennsylvania
OK - anyone do the Idle Learn Procedure and have a report? I believe it would do nothing (as I think Claymore suggested) as the computer is constantly adjusting its settings, but I'd like to hear a report.... Particularly from someone that was getting in the 20's prior to trying the ILP
#25
08-27-2006 | 03:05 AM
Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 428
From: Vancouver, Canada
Originally Posted by trowpa
OK - anyone do the Idle Learn Procedure and have a report? I believe it would do nothing (as I think Claymore suggested) as the computer is constantly adjusting its settings, but I'd like to hear a report.... Particularly from someone that was getting in the 20's prior to trying the ILP
http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/WebX?14@@.f0c139c/496
#26
08-29-2006 | 01:37 PM
Member
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 198
From: hercules, ca
I did the idle learn procedure and it appears that i'm getting worst milage then before. I hope that is not the case.. but i'm at about half and it's at about 121.. before i would be at about 150 at half tank... maybe i should;ve left things alone and not do the idle learn.. darn it! i was getting about 29-30 all highway... was hoping for better not worst
#28
08-29-2006 | 08:43 PM
hqly:
No, I never did the Idle Learn procedure because I didn't feel I needed to.
I increased my tire pressures to 38 psi all around this month when I started using the Scangauge. I check tire pressure every week to make sure it stays there because there always is some leakage.
On highway driving, I'm staying at 65 MPH (which is our speed limit) on routes that have lots of speedtraps. Elsewhere I set the cruise control to ~70 MPH and it keep the RPM's below that magic number of 3400 to keep V-TEC from sucking more gas.
Also, where possible I'm coasting in neutral and anticipating stops so that I don't waste gas that will be eaten up by last minute braking.
No, I never did the Idle Learn procedure because I didn't feel I needed to.
I increased my tire pressures to 38 psi all around this month when I started using the Scangauge. I check tire pressure every week to make sure it stays there because there always is some leakage.
On highway driving, I'm staying at 65 MPH (which is our speed limit) on routes that have lots of speedtraps. Elsewhere I set the cruise control to ~70 MPH and it keep the RPM's below that magic number of 3400 to keep V-TEC from sucking more gas.
Also, where possible I'm coasting in neutral and anticipating stops so that I don't waste gas that will be eaten up by last minute braking.
#29
08-29-2006 | 08:51 PM
Member
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 191
From: Pennsylvania
JRLNC - that's pretty much my method as well - 38psi and very very easy on the throttle. I haven't started coasting in neutral yet, but I might on long downhill runs.
Its pretty much comon sense isn't it? More throttle you give it, the more gas its getting - so minimize throttle as much as possible.
one thing that is misleading in the manual and in many articles about driving for mileage...it is often stated "try not to vary speed" or "use cruise control as often as possible" Well, both of these are only true on a completely flat road - which most of us don't drive on. Cruise control is designed to keep a constant speed - NOT to help mileage. To help mileage you should accelerate going down hill and allow the car to slow down going up hill..thus keeping the throttle mostly steady.
Its pretty much comon sense isn't it? More throttle you give it, the more gas its getting - so minimize throttle as much as possible.
one thing that is misleading in the manual and in many articles about driving for mileage...it is often stated "try not to vary speed" or "use cruise control as often as possible" Well, both of these are only true on a completely flat road - which most of us don't drive on. Cruise control is designed to keep a constant speed - NOT to help mileage. To help mileage you should accelerate going down hill and allow the car to slow down going up hill..thus keeping the throttle mostly steady.
#30
08-29-2006 | 10:28 PM
Originally Posted by trowpa
JRLNC - that's pretty much my method as well - 38psi and very very easy on the throttle. I haven't started coasting in neutral yet, but I might on long downhill runs.
Its pretty much comon sense isn't it? More throttle you give it, the more gas its getting - so minimize throttle as much as possible.
one thing that is misleading in the manual and in many articles about driving for mileage...it is often stated "try not to vary speed" or "use cruise control as often as possible" Well, both of these are only true on a completely flat road - which most of us don't drive on. Cruise control is designed to keep a constant speed - NOT to help mileage. To help mileage you should accelerate going down hill and allow the car to slow down going up hill..thus keeping the throttle mostly steady.
Its pretty much comon sense isn't it? More throttle you give it, the more gas its getting - so minimize throttle as much as possible.
one thing that is misleading in the manual and in many articles about driving for mileage...it is often stated "try not to vary speed" or "use cruise control as often as possible" Well, both of these are only true on a completely flat road - which most of us don't drive on. Cruise control is designed to keep a constant speed - NOT to help mileage. To help mileage you should accelerate going down hill and allow the car to slow down going up hill..thus keeping the throttle mostly steady.
We who own manual transmission Fits have a lot more control over things than the a/t owners, but with paddle shifters they might be able to accomplish some of the same things.
In real-world highway driving I can't drive like some of the Prius and Insight owners that I see every day. In theory, not using cruise control will give you better mileage, but everyone else is speeding and will ride your @ss if you slow down while going uphill.
North Carolina is very hilly, but I still use the cruise control on the highway anyway. I figure 'I paid for it, why not use it?'. It really makes highway driving more enjoyable for me and I have less tendency to speed.
Driving while glancing at my Scangauge, I have learned that city driving and accelerating from a dead stop yield the poorest MPG readings. You can improve that by using a feather-touch on the accelerator and then going neutral downhill or before a stop. The MPG for that brief interval jumps to ~120 MPG or so and that does figure into your average MPG for a trip/tank. On suburban roads where the speed limit is 25-35 MPH, I can often get 35-40 MPG by using good techniques. Complete stops, hills, and a/c use really take their toll.
#31
08-29-2006 | 10:55 PM
Member
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 79
From: San Diego, CA
Originally Posted by jrlnc
In theory, not using cruise control will give you better mileage, but everyone else is speeding and will ride your @ss if you slow down while going uphill.
#32
08-30-2006 | 12:06 AM
Member
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 198
From: hercules, ca
Originally Posted by jrlnc
hqly:
No, I never did the Idle Learn procedure because I didn't feel I needed to.
I increased my tire pressures to 38 psi all around this month when I started using the Scangauge. I check tire pressure every week to make sure it stays there because there always is some leakage.
On highway driving, I'm staying at 65 MPH (which is our speed limit) on routes that have lots of speedtraps. Elsewhere I set the cruise control to ~70 MPH and it keep the RPM's below that magic number of 3400 to keep V-TEC from sucking more gas.
Also, where possible I'm coasting in neutral and anticipating stops so that I don't waste gas that will be eaten up by last minute braking.
No, I never did the Idle Learn procedure because I didn't feel I needed to.
I increased my tire pressures to 38 psi all around this month when I started using the Scangauge. I check tire pressure every week to make sure it stays there because there always is some leakage.
On highway driving, I'm staying at 65 MPH (which is our speed limit) on routes that have lots of speedtraps. Elsewhere I set the cruise control to ~70 MPH and it keep the RPM's below that magic number of 3400 to keep V-TEC from sucking more gas.
Also, where possible I'm coasting in neutral and anticipating stops so that I don't waste gas that will be eaten up by last minute braking.
3-5 psi a month does not seem normal for me.. before i drove on tires without ever putting more air in them for the longest time.. bt at this rate.. after 9 months i would be at 0 psi lol..
#34
03-16-2007 | 12:46 PM
For those with bad MPG
Have any of the FiT owners here with bad MPG tried the ILP technique?
This is what I've read that would help you gain MPG:
Start with a cold engine.
Turn on ignition switch and make sure that every accessory is turned OFF. AC,radio,all lights, everything.
Turn off ignition switch
Disconnect the negative battery cable for 5 minutes.
Re connect cable
DO NOT TOUCH THROTTLE. Turn ignition switch on for 2 seconds, then start car.
Let it idle with all accessories turned off.
In about 10-15 minutes,in 70-80 degree weather, the radiator cooling fans will cycle. After the second cycle let idle an additional 10 minutes.
The fans will cycle some more during this additional 10 minutes.
Switch off engine. Reset radio and driver AUTO window.
Some have claimed to gain 4-5 MPG with a Sport AT. Can anyone confirm or deny if this helps?
Thanks
This is what I've read that would help you gain MPG:
Start with a cold engine.
Turn on ignition switch and make sure that every accessory is turned OFF. AC,radio,all lights, everything.
Turn off ignition switch
Disconnect the negative battery cable for 5 minutes.
Re connect cable
DO NOT TOUCH THROTTLE. Turn ignition switch on for 2 seconds, then start car.
Let it idle with all accessories turned off.
In about 10-15 minutes,in 70-80 degree weather, the radiator cooling fans will cycle. After the second cycle let idle an additional 10 minutes.
The fans will cycle some more during this additional 10 minutes.
Switch off engine. Reset radio and driver AUTO window.
Some have claimed to gain 4-5 MPG with a Sport AT. Can anyone confirm or deny if this helps?
Thanks
#35
03-16-2007 | 11:48 PM
Member
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 289
From: Northern, VA
Have any of the FiT owners here with bad MPG tried the ILP technique?
This is what I've read that would help you gain MPG:
Start with a cold engine.
Turn on ignition switch and make sure that every accessory is turned OFF. AC,radio,all lights, everything.
Turn off ignition switch
Disconnect the negative battery cable for 5 minutes.
Re connect cable
DO NOT TOUCH THROTTLE. Turn ignition switch on for 2 seconds, then start car.
Let it idle with all accessories turned off.
In about 10-15 minutes,in 70-80 degree weather, the radiator cooling fans will cycle. After the second cycle let idle an additional 10 minutes.
The fans will cycle some more during this additional 10 minutes.
Switch off engine. Reset radio and driver AUTO window.
Some have claimed to gain 4-5 MPG with a Sport AT. Can anyone confirm or deny if this helps?
Thanks
This is what I've read that would help you gain MPG:
Start with a cold engine.
Turn on ignition switch and make sure that every accessory is turned OFF. AC,radio,all lights, everything.
Turn off ignition switch
Disconnect the negative battery cable for 5 minutes.
Re connect cable
DO NOT TOUCH THROTTLE. Turn ignition switch on for 2 seconds, then start car.
Let it idle with all accessories turned off.
In about 10-15 minutes,in 70-80 degree weather, the radiator cooling fans will cycle. After the second cycle let idle an additional 10 minutes.
The fans will cycle some more during this additional 10 minutes.
Switch off engine. Reset radio and driver AUTO window.
Some have claimed to gain 4-5 MPG with a Sport AT. Can anyone confirm or deny if this helps?
Thanks
sounds intersting.. did you try it yourself?
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