i think i found my next battery

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  #21  
Old 08-10-2009, 03:30 AM
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Originally Posted by kylerwho
why is that poo bar not powder coated candy black to go along with the under the carbon bonnet theme?
because im not done with it haha. i am going to redesign it soon enough to handle more power and connect the walls of my engine bay.
 
  #22  
Old 08-10-2009, 03:32 AM
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gonna weld in a custom strut?

i know that voodoo your dropping in might require some more bracing because the torque increases quite a bit.
 
  #23  
Old 08-10-2009, 03:40 AM
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Originally Posted by kylerwho
gonna weld in a custom strut?

i know that voodoo your dropping in might require some more bracing because the torque increases quite a bit.
yea, i am going to design the piece and fit everything up and have my buddy weld it on because i am horrible at welding. another arm on each side coming down to reenforce the fenders, and i am going to have another bar welded to the A frame coming through the firewall to clasp onto the existing bar in the middle. its hard to explain but i see it in my mind.
 
  #24  
Old 08-10-2009, 01:22 PM
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i have seen what you are talking about on m works 350z so i see what you are saying......

you pick a horsepower figure to shoot for yet?
 
  #25  
Old 08-10-2009, 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Tork
Odyssey Batteries are military spec

here is what they have to say about 'cold cranking amps' in relation to their battery design, and having used odyssey batteries since 1997 I have found it to be true.
I know someone who works for a company that builds systems for the military that require backup batteries. Here's what he has to say about Odyssey batteries:

Where the Enersys batteries are head and shoulders above anything else are in other areas, like:

1) Lifecycle - rated for 8-10 years @ +25C, vs. about 4-6 years on average for the others. That's TYPICAL, not iron clad.

2) Op Temp Range - compare it to the others, and think about how hot it is in the battery tray of your bike. Heat is your battery's #1 enemy. With the metal jacket, op temp range can be pushed to +65C - pretty incredible. The jacket just keeps the battery from deforming in the heat - the actual battery is the same, and the jacket is certainly not necessary in a motorcycle application.

3) Ruggedized to meet MIL-standards for shock and vibration - the others are not.

In the military applications we serve, there is really no choice but to use Enersys if AGM is called for - not great for us because they're expensive and sometimes long lead, but their performance is simply beyond anything else on the market.
 
  #26  
Old 08-10-2009, 10:02 PM
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Originally Posted by kylerwho
i have seen what you are talking about on m works 350z so i see what you are saying......

you pick a horsepower figure to shoot for yet?
yea i am shooting for 260whp NA. i just put my fit engine back to stock. what a ball-less engine. cant wait to get the k in!
 
  #27  
Old 08-11-2009, 12:10 AM
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so you have a buyer for all your goodies?

glad you are planning this out.......
 
  #28  
Old 08-11-2009, 12:14 AM
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where did you get the spoon battery? I see them for $500 and $322. thats insane!
 
  #29  
Old 08-11-2009, 12:26 AM
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Originally Posted by kylerwho
so you have a buyer for all your goodies?

glad you are planning this out.......
yea i have all the plans, im just a little low on funds. i am going to be starting a for sale thread for all my engine parts. i am in no rush tho. when you rush things, they never turn out right.

Originally Posted by dewthedew
where did you get the spoon battery? I see them for $500 and $322. thats insane!
yea, they have gotten crazy in price. i bought mine about a year and a half ago when the battery was around 200 bucks, and i also got it for cost because opak racing is awesome.
 
  #30  
Old 08-11-2009, 12:29 AM
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so are itb's on the list or is that even possible.
 
  #31  
Old 08-11-2009, 12:35 AM
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Originally Posted by kylerwho
so are itb's on the list or is that even possible.
possible and on the list. i have been toying with the idea of getting a mugen hood, cutting it in half and fusing it with my spoon hood so the vent is only on one side for the itb's. but i may just run a modified sheet metal intake mani because i DO NOT want to cut my rad frame.

another option would be to run a smaller radiator and have the runners for the itb's run in the top grille of the bumper.
 

Last edited by kelsodeez; 08-11-2009 at 05:14 AM.
  #32  
Old 08-11-2009, 01:15 AM
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or you can tilt the raditator like in the v configuration in the drifting circuit and push the velocity stacks forward so they are sitting almost where the grille is. still there is alot of fab work needing to be done.
 
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