i would recommend doing it yourself if you have 1/2 hour to 2 hrs free time

it shouldn't take more than an hour to do it, the only really difficult part is getting the oil filter off with the stupid POS plastic oil filter cap

IMO installing stuff and doing your own maintenance is more rewarding, fun, and you definetly learn more about your car

for the fits its pretty simple to change oil, but on RSX's you have to burn yourself just to reach the oil filter

 

The filter cap wrench I got from Bernardi is metal. It wasn't cheap ($17) but I'm glad I got it. The first filter I did without the cap wrench (Bernardi said they had trouble finding it in their warehouse so it shipped later than I expected) wasn't bad but it was a little tricky getting a strap wrench that fit, then getting the strap wrench in under the vehicle. In a pinch, you could always just punch a phillips screwdriver through the can and twist the filter off.

With my fumoto valve, an oil change should take 15min to 1/2 hour tops.

 

[quote=Rob22315;376377]In a pinch, you could always just punch a phillips screwdriver through the can and twist the filter off.
quote]
lol i use the same method except with huge pliers if the oil filter wouldn't budge

 

I echo the others. Don't use the kwikey lube places.

I've had them strip an oil pan, consistantly overfill, and use the wrong oil several times. The last time I went to one of these (while I was waiting for the Fit to be delivered), they didn't even have the 5w20 oil that the Fit requires, though this may have changed by now...

No more for me. I used to change the oil myself but where I live now it's a bit tougher, and saving $10 isn't as big a deal to me as it used to be.

I go to the dealership. I'm in and out in a max of 45 minutes (4 changes so far), they do everything right, and they wash the car for me to boot, all for - for $29. I've never made an appointment, but I tend to go when they first open up on the weekends.

 

I only go to the dealer for oil changes because I got lifetime free oil changes with the Fit. Otherwise I would do it myself.

As for the quicky oil change places, stay away from them like the plague because they're infamous for making up problems about the car - I remember there was a investigative report by a news channel where they had their car inspected by a certified mechanic with nothing wrong with the car; can you guess what the people at the lube place (I think it was Ez-lube in this case) said? I even ran into this problem myself when I used to have a Ford Mustang 05 - I was in a hurry and the guy who I was paying was insisting that my rear differential fluid needed to be changed (on a car with less than 15,000 miles, and on the basis that the color of the fluid was "dark"), and that my air filter NEEDED to be changed to a K&N drop in filter. It was ridiculous.

 

I hear far more complaints from my customers regarding past experiences with quick lubes who messed up their ride or snaked them into paying for upgrades and repairs they really didn't need than regarding dealerships doing the same.

It may be common to run into dealerships that are heavily pushing OEM oil and filters (often with the implied or overt threat of warranty issues), but it's much less common to have them make the kind of stupid mistakes that are so common at quick lubes.

I've done my own oil changes for 20 years, and, once you work out the kinks, most vehicles will only take you 1/2 hour or so. The first oil change, pay attention to the things that took you the most time and made the most mess. Then, go looking for available products or ingenious homemade doohickes that will alleviate the additional time and mess.

The Fumoto valve that was mentioned in an earlier post is one that I highly recommend and which has saved me a great deal of time and mess in the past. They're awesome. A large capacity covered/sealed drain pan can be useful as well.

Otherwise, if you're really averse to doing the work yourself, find yourself a dealership that doesn't threaten you with a voided warranty for not using OEM replacement parts - it's not legal or ethical and is, to me, a sign of a less than trustworthy dealership.

 

Dealerships will charge you their flat rate to rebuilt an engine, diagnose your ECM, or change your oil. What changes between these is the talent they assign to the task. In the case of an oil change, they'll give the job to the noobie who worked at Jiffy Lube yesterday, or was washing the cars in the parking lot last week.

Private garages tend to pay their mechanics better than dealerships as dealerships have a lot more overhead, so you'll get a good mechanic, probably one who is a part owner, or at least an overqualified mechanic assigned to the task.

I buy the oil and the filter and just have them do the work while I watch, or at least I did for years. I'm retired now so I do the work myself. Once you remove the lower engine cover the drain plug and filter are right there, so very easy to R&R. Buy a good (17mm IIRC) 6-pt box-end wrench for the drain plug, or a 6-pt socket for a 3/8ths drive. I like the Fram filters that have the grippy stuff on the end as it give you a great grip. You'll also need an oil-drain pan, a floor jack and jack stands. AutoZone, for one (probably all parts stores) will gladly take the used oil. I use Mobil One 15k or Annual Protection and change the oil every spring after putting about 7k miles on the car. Honda doesn't want oil in the engine for more than a year as acid can build up in the oil and attack the engine.

I almost got crushed by a car when my dad accidentally pushed my car hard enough to topple his 15 ton jack stands, so I always put blocks of wood under the floor pan just in case. It adds a few minutes, but could save your life. The FIT is super-easy to work on, one of many, many virtues of the car.

 

Rotating tires when changing oil can be a good idea, especially if you have SuperSyn oils like Mobil One 15k or Annual Protection, AmzOil, etc, BUT, it should be obvious that tires that have higher tread ratings don't need to be rotates as often as tires with low tread rating.

EG: I'm running Michelin Defender T+H, which have a Treadwear rating of 820 (80,000 mile warranty), so they don't need to be rotates as often as soft, "sticky" tires (usually the traction rating is no better on such tires, they're just really cheap, crap tires) with a 20,000 mile warranty.

 

Too, if your car is within its powertrain warranty period, taking it to the Dealer for oil changes helps preserve the warranty and its protection. Yes, I know about Magnuson-Moss, but in times of trouble, a clear path to resolution is preferable to a protracted legal fight with Attorneys in the mix. Within warranty coverage, I take our vehicles to the Dealer. Once out of warranty, I do it myself.

 

Take it to the dealer, most dealerships preform oil changes at cost, secondly they go through and do a multi point inspection so you have a better idea of what needs to fix ,and now that you are a service customer if there was anything wrong that is discretionary , they will go to bat with Honda for you as a regular service customer. Never take a car to a quick lube place, they do crap work, will try and scare an upsell you into flushes and services that will ruin your car. Occasionally you may get up sold at a dealer but at least the work they perform they stand behind and they’ll do it correctly and 99% of the cases.

 

Dealer when under warranty. After that, find an independent local mechanic/garage that you can trust - ask around. Ideally one that specializes in Hondas. For example, Hoshi Motors here in Boulder, CO. Suggest avoiding ALL of the "Jiffy Lube" type places.

 

My 2018 Fit came with lifetime oil changes from our dealership. I would never trust those cheap oil change shops. They always have kids working there.