Dent in passenger door :(
#1
Dent in passenger door :(
I have a 3 month old fit LS and got hit by someones door in a parking lot, the dent is right on the crease of the door...just wondering what the chances are of getting it popped out without cracking the paint...anyone have the same issue thats been repaired??
#3
nah unfortunately i dont have a pic, but i can descride it, there is no cracked paint in the dent its about 2"-2.5" wide and maybe 1/2" deep in the middle of the dent its right on the door where it sticks out
#5
#7
If you read on the threads below the video (which by the way was super) that this only removes larger dents, NOT smaller ones.
For small dents replace the CPU Air Can with "Dry Ice".....heat the car dent with the hair dryer then hold the piece of dry ice on the dent wit a pair of pliers till that baby POPZ! GOOD LUCK
tonyd
For small dents replace the CPU Air Can with "Dry Ice".....heat the car dent with the hair dryer then hold the piece of dry ice on the dent wit a pair of pliers till that baby POPZ! GOOD LUCK
tonyd
#10
which one the door or the lip.... the lip i replace w/mugen lip and the door my friend she drove my car b/c i was too tired to drive after snowboarding, and she parking my car and rub against a big tire of those off road jeep,so that make nice dent on the rear door and part of the front door......
#11
i had a small dent on my fender on my integra. i went to home depot...bought me a plunger and it actually worked. it popped right out. but i am going to try the dry ice thing, because costco members love to leave their carts around my car for some reason and i get tiny little dents everywhere.
#12
Wow! What a funny/wicked way to pop out a dent!
I weld a bit and even though every once in a while I have used cold rags to control distortion...I would not have thought of this in a million years!
Thanks for posting that link and other good info...Great job guys!
I cant say that I want a dent to try this on....but...
I weld a bit and even though every once in a while I have used cold rags to control distortion...I would not have thought of this in a million years!
Thanks for posting that link and other good info...Great job guys!
I cant say that I want a dent to try this on....but...
#14
+1 for PDR.
when the ding is over decorative lines you'll only be able to get about 85%
out though. but it might be enough.
DentWizard.com : Welcome and search your area.
when the ding is over decorative lines you'll only be able to get about 85%
out though. but it might be enough.
DentWizard.com : Welcome and search your area.
#18
i have both traditional PDR tools (rods) and glue types.
either one would work but you have to remember if you pull out with
glue you *COULD* pull out too far and have high spots.
these cheep glue puller kits sometimes do not come with a knock down
tool and customers are left with high spots.
if you end up with a high spot you can use those disposable
chopsticks (just break it apart and use the one piece) and a
small hammer to tap it down. use a predetermined straight line
such as your garage door grid or wall or watever in the reflection
as a guide. when the line(s) are straight in the reflection, it means
the panel is flat.
either one would work but you have to remember if you pull out with
glue you *COULD* pull out too far and have high spots.
these cheep glue puller kits sometimes do not come with a knock down
tool and customers are left with high spots.
if you end up with a high spot you can use those disposable
chopsticks (just break it apart and use the one piece) and a
small hammer to tap it down. use a predetermined straight line
such as your garage door grid or wall or watever in the reflection
as a guide. when the line(s) are straight in the reflection, it means
the panel is flat.
#19
i have both traditional PDR tools (rods) and glue types.
either one would work but you have to remember if you pull out with
glue you *COULD* pull out too far and have high spots.
these cheep glue puller kits sometimes do not come with a knock down
tool and customers are left with high spots.
if you end up with a high spot you can use those disposable
chopsticks (just break it apart and use the one piece) and a
small hammer to tap it down. use a predetermined straight line
such as your garage door grid or wall or watever in the reflection
as a guide. when the line(s) are straight in the reflection, it means
the panel is flat.
either one would work but you have to remember if you pull out with
glue you *COULD* pull out too far and have high spots.
these cheep glue puller kits sometimes do not come with a knock down
tool and customers are left with high spots.
if you end up with a high spot you can use those disposable
chopsticks (just break it apart and use the one piece) and a
small hammer to tap it down. use a predetermined straight line
such as your garage door grid or wall or watever in the reflection
as a guide. when the line(s) are straight in the reflection, it means
the panel is flat.
#20
yep try the normal wood one, not the bamboo if you have them.
disposable chopsticks are soft vs a true knockdown tool which is
made out of hardend nylon backed resin so it provides a wider margin
for error.
disposable chopsticks are soft vs a true knockdown tool which is
made out of hardend nylon backed resin so it provides a wider margin
for error.