Grounding Wire Kits - How's it worth it?

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  #21  
Old 02-16-2008, 01:35 PM
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pwned

Originally Posted by kelsodeez
i have my hid ballasts close to my battery and i have a teeny spoon battery. when i installed my hid's, i started to get that interference sound with my ignition and in fifth gear, i would get this weird low tone through my stereo speakers. i put in a grounding kit, it didnt help at all. BUT as desperate as i was, i decided to try a voltage stabilizer and BAM! problems solved. i took out the grounding kit and it was still perfect. i agree that the grounding kit had little to no effect on my problem but the voltage stabilizer came through for me.
You, sir, just got kicked in the nut$...
 
  #22  
Old 02-16-2008, 02:47 PM
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Originally Posted by REXXXXXXXXX
You, sir, just got kicked in the nut$...
haha ouch! reminds me of that movie "idiocracy". yea I don't claim to know how they work or why it worked for me and I probably won't ever run one in another car but for some reason it worked for me. go figure eh
 
  #23  
Old 02-16-2008, 04:26 PM
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hey if you can afford it who cares... lol jk... man now i am throwen between getting one or not cuz i really hate it when my lights dim when i role all my windows up...
 
  #24  
Old 02-19-2008, 04:05 AM
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Originally Posted by randomracer
hey if you can afford it who cares... lol jk... man now i am throwen between getting one or not cuz i really hate it when my lights dim when i role all my windows up...
Why do your headlights dim when you roll your windows up?
 
  #25  
Old 02-19-2008, 10:19 PM
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Originally Posted by fshwcrs
Why do your headlights dim when you roll your windows up?
Voltage drop due to load.
 
  #26  
Old 02-19-2008, 11:43 PM
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and would a voltage stabilizer help stop this???
 
  #27  
Old 02-20-2008, 01:10 AM
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not worth it
 
  #28  
Old 02-20-2008, 10:42 AM
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Originally Posted by AppleMac*Fit
Voltage drop due to load.
I was hoping he would answer so he would think about it and realize a grounding kit isn't going to help him at all.
 
  #29  
Old 02-20-2008, 02:29 PM
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I always had wondered about these but never asked. I never really understood them and just wrote them off as a good way for someone to make a buck. (in terms of newer cars)

Thanks for doing the leg work!

but i may try these on my 63 Nova. That shi..t is wack!
 
  #30  
Old 02-20-2008, 04:14 PM
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Originally Posted by randomracer
and would a voltage stabilizer help stop this???
Voltage stabilizer will have no effect on voltage drop due to load. The voltage drop due to heavy loads due to the alternator trying to supply a lot of current. Alternators are rated for a certain current output, usually at certain RPMS. As you try and exceed that amperage output it can't really magically come up with more power then it can create, at a certain point the voltage drops because of the high amperage draw.

I'm probably not explaining it well, but power output of an alternator has limits. Power = Voltage X Amps. Usually you won't run up against the max power output limitations of the alternator, but if you do, the voltage will necessarily drop when the Amperage goes up.

And on the subject of voltage stabilizers, I agree with the main poster that their worthless, I have no idea how the small voltage ripple of an electrical system would effect power and fuel efficiency of an engine which is an entirely mechanical system. Electronic controls either work or don't work, they won't magically work better. A simplification but the point remains.
 
  #31  
Old 02-20-2008, 04:16 PM
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Originally Posted by gimme
Thanks for doing the leg work!

but i may try these on my 63 Nova. That shi..t is wack!
No problem.

I might give it a try in your 1963 Nova as well if I were you. Especially if you put together your own kit from scratch (which wouldn't cost much). I'm certain my 1969 Camaro could have benefited from a grounding kit. BUT - I would have needed to check it out as well with a meter.
 
  #32  
Old 02-20-2008, 07:07 PM
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i understand what you say about the alternators limits ... so the only way to get rid of this voltage drop is with a better one??? or is there another way...
 
  #33  
Old 02-22-2008, 03:25 PM
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Honestly I'd just ignore the effects, it's not going to hurt anything in a stock electrical system.

If you've started doing major modifications to the electrical system, adding components with lots of current draw then you're in another situation, but if that's not the case then leave it alone.
 
  #34  
Old 02-22-2008, 07:51 PM
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I'd like to here about your changes to reduce inside noise you listed in your sign. Did you happen to take some db measurements before and after and based on results have some recommendations.
 
  #35  
Old 02-23-2008, 12:58 AM
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man screw that i want to get rid of that voltage drop and i will find a way too... (i got money to throw around)
 
  #36  
Old 04-29-2008, 10:26 PM
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What about replacing the wire from the alt to the bat with a lower awg wire?

Josh
 
  #37  
Old 05-25-2010, 10:13 PM
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Originally Posted by AppleMac*Fit
***Note - I ran an 8' long wire clamped to the metal near the taillight housing to near the battery, that way my Fluke meter's leads would be able to reach... This way also - the electrical path was effectively DOUBLED.
Back from the dead, I know . . . but I don't understand. Your battery is near your taillight housing?

Or you just ran a wire to the rear of the chassis for your negative ground?
 
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