You can't use the number of wheel weights required as a barometer for wheel quality - they're one part of the equation. The tires themselves are NOT innately balanced, and are a much bigger variable since they're farther from the hub.

 

My RTX wheels didn't need any weights when I mounted up my ContisportContact2's, they only needed weights with the sh!t tires they came with originally.

 

yah, well, usually i have tires mounted and balanced,
not just the wheel by itself.

i think it has more to do with match mounting with
the tires, tire balance itself and how true it is, and
the tech's ability but my point was, the only time i
had issues were light weight wheels so just thought
i would post it.

now let's review the point once again:
the less mass you have, minute variations have bigger impact.

 

WHAT I LEARNED at a couple race tire booths last year at miller motorsports track was that the higher end tire you buy the less (if any) weight you'll need to balance the wheel/tire combo
think about it race wheels really shouldn't have weights stuck or pounded to them cause at 200 miles an hour if they come off - W A T C H O U T -

WELL thats for race tires
if your looking for a street tire go with a reputable tire company and a "real" wheel!

back on subject - forged wheels are worth every penny in my book - I HAD 18" cast adr's on my civic 4 dr w/supercharger and changed to forged 17" and picked up 9 miles per gallon and never bent any of them and i live in the worst state for potholes (year round)

 

Depends if you static balance them or not. Most tire shops put one inner and outer weight on the wheel to counter balance them which is the best way to do it cause both weights help balance both ends of the wheel. But when you have aftermarket wheels or chrome wheels you cant hammer a weight on the outer and inner lips. you can put on some sticky ones but most people dont really stick them on in the exact spot, or if they accidently stick them on off center are just to lazy to scrape them off. Now if you put a unbalance wheel like this on the rear instead of the front the custumer usually doesnt feel it to, until that wheel is rotated to the front. Now when you have aftermarket wheels and you static balance them the correct way using only one weight, it needs to be as far out toward the inside of the car as possible. Plus tires are not always completely round or seamless sometimes, and cause's them to be heavy on one side.
Another problem is that techs dont allways use the balance machine correctly either. You shouldnt be bumping it , leaning on it, tapping on it, and it should be calibrated every morning. And the cones and lug hub attachment shouldnt be dropped dented or beat up. And when you get them balanced correctly the wheel with the least amout of weight should always be put on the driver wheel, the next on the pass front, and so on. The only experience I have had with wheels being to light is on front drive cars with no power steering in slippery road conditions

Sorry for the long post, I tend to do that alot