when is a good mileage to switch to synthetic?
#1
when is a good mileage to switch to synthetic?
I picked up my 07 milano red manual sport about three weeks ago and i have 956 miles on it. I did the break in like the manual says and have continued to baby it until i switch to mobil 1. I do a lot of short trips so mobile 1 goes in everyone of my cars. I have heard many different opinions on changing the oil for the first time so i would like to hear from some people before i decide. I havent owned a honda before so i dont want to switch over to early. Let me know what you all think.
#2
there is no mileage you should wait, i don't know what idiot started that rumor...but that's all it is, a rumor. same thing with the people that use dino oil to break in engines... synthetic is VERY VERY similar to regular oil...and it does NOT affect engine break in. An engine is FULL broken in with in the first 5 min of it running. Ask any NASCAR team, and drag team, and any SAE tech....
every engine that comes out of RLZ is cranked/broke in/and runs on VR1...and look what they've done
every engine that comes out of RLZ is cranked/broke in/and runs on VR1...and look what they've done
#5
there is no mileage you should wait, i don't know what idiot started that rumor...but that's all it is, a rumor. same thing with the people that use dino oil to break in engines... synthetic is VERY VERY similar to regular oil...and it does NOT affect engine break in. An engine is FULL broken in with in the first 5 min of it running. Ask any NASCAR team, and drag team, and any SAE tech....
every engine that comes out of RLZ is cranked/broke in/and runs on VR1...and look what they've done
every engine that comes out of RLZ is cranked/broke in/and runs on VR1...and look what they've done
#6
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Just a tidbit of info here, my dealer told me very seriously if I swap the oil out of my Fit before the first scheduled oil change I will totally void my warrenty. He said the oil in the engine when you first get it is full of special detergents and additives that need to be run for a certain amount of time to help break the new engine in. I plan to switch to synthetic as my first scheduled oil change.
They told me the same stuff. Ive been running synthetic for a while now.
#7
lol, nice
No way they can give you a hard time if they did the oil change!
I didn't know the Fit needed a hard break in, I know on some of the older Honda's you needed to do it so that the rings seat correctly or you will end up with an oil burning engine (or so I have been told anyway). I am pretty sure if it does need a hard break in I accomplished that anway
Love that redline!!
![Big Grin](https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
I didn't know the Fit needed a hard break in, I know on some of the older Honda's you needed to do it so that the rings seat correctly or you will end up with an oil burning engine (or so I have been told anyway). I am pretty sure if it does need a hard break in I accomplished that anway
![Big Grin](https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
#9
there is no mileage you should wait, i don't know what idiot started that rumor...but that's all it is, a rumor. same thing with the people that use dino oil to break in engines... synthetic is VERY VERY similar to regular oil...and it does NOT affect engine break in. An engine is FULL broken in with in the first 5 min of it running. Ask any NASCAR team, and drag team, and any SAE tech....
every engine that comes out of RLZ is cranked/broke in/and runs on VR1...and look what they've done
every engine that comes out of RLZ is cranked/broke in/and runs on VR1...and look what they've done
For those of us who have seen a rebuilt engine being broken in and the oil change that ensues its break-in period has seen the little metal shavings in the oil. The idea of using regular oil is not only because its cheaper but because it doesn't lubricate as well as synthetic. So with less lubrication and more friction, the idea is that the rings will seat properly instead of "gliding" past with all the synthetic goodness.
The question for me is do OEM manufacturers use the crosshatch on the cylinder walls to seat the rings from the factory and are engines broken-in from the factory? if the engines are broken in from the factory, I would bet theres really not much to worry about and to just wait until its time to change your oil before switching.
Sorry if it sounds like I'm attacking your claim. But after reading so many articles ... I just had to say something.
#10
the crosshatch just isn't to seat rings...it also effects the way th oil attaches and detaches to the cylinder walls and effects windage on teh rings
but the rule of thumb iv'e used in every form of motorsports ive worked in (NASCAR, several drag racing teams from import to outlaw 10.5, to SCCA/ECHC/NASA stuff....) you run the oil you want to run...from the first second the engine is cranked.
and there is no need to change the oil at 50/100/500/1000...that's a waste. get the engine in...crank it with a target air/fuel around what you want, crank it up and let it heat up unitl the fan cycles twice...then let it cool down. then crank it up and beat the immortal shit out of it for 50 miles...cahnge the oil and you're done. 4000-5000 miles later...change the oil again and continue to do that
but the rule of thumb iv'e used in every form of motorsports ive worked in (NASCAR, several drag racing teams from import to outlaw 10.5, to SCCA/ECHC/NASA stuff....) you run the oil you want to run...from the first second the engine is cranked.
and there is no need to change the oil at 50/100/500/1000...that's a waste. get the engine in...crank it with a target air/fuel around what you want, crank it up and let it heat up unitl the fan cycles twice...then let it cool down. then crank it up and beat the immortal shit out of it for 50 miles...cahnge the oil and you're done. 4000-5000 miles later...change the oil again and continue to do that
#13
I think the original meaning behind waiting to use synthetic wasn't because of the engine break-in period. But it was because its cheaper to break-in an engine using regular oil because of the recommended oil changes ... ie 50, 100, 500, 1000 miles. The idea of using regular oil to break-in is because it is different than synthetic, meaning is lubrication properties are not as good and is why we pay for synthetic oil. If it was as SO similar, I should just use regular oil.
For those of us who have seen a rebuilt engine being broken in and the oil change that ensues its break-in period has seen the little metal shavings in the oil. The idea of using regular oil is not only because its cheaper but because it doesn't lubricate as well as synthetic. So with less lubrication and more friction, the idea is that the rings will seat properly instead of "gliding" past with all the synthetic goodness.
The question for me is do OEM manufacturers use the crosshatch on the cylinder walls to seat the rings from the factory and are engines broken-in from the factory? if the engines are broken in from the factory, I would bet theres really not much to worry about and to just wait until its time to change your oil before switching.
Sorry if it sounds like I'm attacking your claim. But after reading so many articles ... I just had to say something.
For those of us who have seen a rebuilt engine being broken in and the oil change that ensues its break-in period has seen the little metal shavings in the oil. The idea of using regular oil is not only because its cheaper but because it doesn't lubricate as well as synthetic. So with less lubrication and more friction, the idea is that the rings will seat properly instead of "gliding" past with all the synthetic goodness.
The question for me is do OEM manufacturers use the crosshatch on the cylinder walls to seat the rings from the factory and are engines broken-in from the factory? if the engines are broken in from the factory, I would bet theres really not much to worry about and to just wait until its time to change your oil before switching.
Sorry if it sounds like I'm attacking your claim. But after reading so many articles ... I just had to say something.
![Smile](https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
lol, this is getting way too technical for me
![EEK!](https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/images/smilies/eek.gif)
![Stick Out Tongue](https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/images/smilies/tongue.gif)
Speaking of which my little yellow wrench icon showed up today finally, time for my first oil change!
![Big Grin](https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
Last edited by Sugarphreak; 09-24-2007 at 01:17 AM.
#14
I think the original meaning behind waiting to use synthetic wasn't because of the engine break-in period. But it was because its cheaper to break-in an engine using regular oil because of the recommended oil changes ... ie 50, 100, 500, 1000 miles. The idea of using regular oil to break-in is because it is different than synthetic, meaning is lubrication properties are not as good and is why we pay for synthetic oil. If it was as SO similar, I should just use regular oil.
For those of us who have seen a rebuilt engine being broken in and the oil change that ensues its break-in period has seen the little metal shavings in the oil. The idea of using regular oil is not only because its cheaper but because it doesn't lubricate as well as synthetic. So with less lubrication and more friction, the idea is that the rings will seat properly instead of "gliding" past with all the synthetic goodness.
The question for me is do OEM manufacturers use the crosshatch on the cylinder walls to seat the rings from the factory and are engines broken-in from the factory? if the engines are broken in from the factory, I would bet theres really not much to worry about and to just wait until its time to change your oil before switching.
Sorry if it sounds like I'm attacking your claim. But after reading so many articles ... I just had to say something.
For those of us who have seen a rebuilt engine being broken in and the oil change that ensues its break-in period has seen the little metal shavings in the oil. The idea of using regular oil is not only because its cheaper but because it doesn't lubricate as well as synthetic. So with less lubrication and more friction, the idea is that the rings will seat properly instead of "gliding" past with all the synthetic goodness.
The question for me is do OEM manufacturers use the crosshatch on the cylinder walls to seat the rings from the factory and are engines broken-in from the factory? if the engines are broken in from the factory, I would bet theres really not much to worry about and to just wait until its time to change your oil before switching.
Sorry if it sounds like I'm attacking your claim. But after reading so many articles ... I just had to say something.
#15
Well i couldnt wait anymore and took it to the dealership and talked to them about it and they told me that their are aditives in the oil and running it till the light came on is what honda recomends. They did however say that as long as a dealership does it then there is nothing to worry about because if there is issues later on with the internals that showing the dealership that all the maintenance has been done by them that they cant disregard your claim. In other words 60 some dollars later i have mobil 1 and a recipt from the dealership so i am covered. My mileage was at 1018. The car seems to be a little happier with high revs now then it did but that could be just me thinking its more then its not. haha. Thanks for your inputs and information.
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