NICE! Can't wait to see the end results! ^.^

 

very nice! looking forward to this

 

here's the "how-to"...

i'll probably be doing editing to this over the next little while...
the parts list is in the first post of the thread

as always: #notresponsibleforyouscrewingupordoinganythingstup idtoyourowncarokbye

putting the discs/calipers on is by far the easiest part of this entire adventure... the parking brake cables, as suspected, are what take quite a while... BUT, with some basic know-how and tools you can do it...

tools:
metric sockets
ratchets
17mm box wrench (if getting brake lines from fastbrakes)
10mm flare wrench (not absolutely needed but highly recommended)
4 jack stands
dremel with grinding wheel
32mm socket (yes - 32mm)

here's what i did, your mileage may vary:

before you start - i preassembled the rear calipers with all the clips, grease, pads, and even the brake line... this helps it go faster when you actually get there...

1. rear wheels off
2. use a screw to get the drum off
3. remove the cover for the hub nut
4. undimple the hub nut, and remove nut
5. remove bearing/hub assembly
6. unclip two brake line clips holding the junctions in place, and unhook from all hardline clips
7. unscrew frame hardline from soft junction, having the new caliper/brake line next to you so you don't leak too much brake fluid everywhere... unscrew old, screw in the new
8. unscrew 4 bolts that hold the parking brake assembly to the axle - set assembly aside (it will still be attached to the car by the parking brake - i couldn't for the life of me get the parking cable loose from the drum assembly)

9. install scarebird brackets - tabs going inboard and to the rear, and secure using the 4 bolts you just removed
10. reinstall the bearing/hub/nut and redimple
11. install rotor
12. install caliper
13. bleed the system (do all four corners in order)

at this point you can route the brake lines and secure them as you see fit (you'll be able to reuse one of the brake clips per side for the new junction, and DO SAVE THE OTHER ONE... you'll be able to use it for the parking brake attachment at the caliper) - i used a few rubber sections to protect the line as i secured it at a few points

good breaking point (get it)... get lunch, beer, or whatever...

go inside the car

14. lift the rear of the center console and position yourself in the back seat
15. loosen the parking brake adjustment nut, and remove cable ends from the equalizer
16. unscrew cable holding bracket and set aside
17. going underneath the car, you'll need to remove the bracket that protects the fuel filler where it enters the tank, the plastic undertray, and the mid-frame brace as well as the parking brake bracket nuts

-it helps to have two people here - one inside one underneath

18. push the grommets through from the top, and pull the cables out of the bottom - drivers side first, then passenger side
19. rebend the cable holding bracket to accommodate the larger ends of the new parking brake cables
20. transfer the stock grommets to the new cables (silicone/wd40/lube helps a lot here)
21. remove new and stock cable brackets from each set, and hold onto them - you'll want to use them, but how and where is up to you
22. you'll need to dremel the cable slots in the floor to accommodate the larger width of the new cables... keep grinding and testing (about 1/8" of additional width is needed per slot)
23. put the new cables in from the bottom - passenger side first, then drivers (REALLY helps to have someone helping at this point)
24. reinstall cable holding bracket, and put cable ends back on equalizer
25. using the brake junction clips that you saved from earlier, attach the parking brake to the caliper arm and secure using the brake clip - and use pin and cotter pin to attach cable end to the caliper spring arm
26. creativity time - using all the new/old cable brackets, secure the rest of the parking brake cable taking care to keep the cable close to the axle as it leaves the caliper (you'll need to check for wheel clearance to be sure)
27. adjust parking brake cable adjustment screw inside
28. profit

 

scarebird brackets mounted, new brake line attached


bearin/hub reattached


rotor on


caliper assembly on


midframe brace, undertray, and fuel plate removed


parking brake cable holding bracket bent to accommodate new cables (right is done, left is stock)


dremel'd slots to accomodate wider cable ends


new cables installed


routed lines/cables, attached cable to caliper arm



as it sits now (yes... the car is dirty... its winter in michigan)

 

that looks excellent!! good job.

 

here is the link to purchase the brackets:

Scarebird GD Rear Disc Conversion Brackets

 

Sweetness! Glad you finally got everything to work together.

Just curious though... Were there any clearance differences with the EP3 SI's parking brake cable ends compared to the Acura Legend's?

Also, did you happen to notice that pistons for the rear calipers were push-in styles like our OEM fronts or the rotate in style (has a +on the face of the piston)?

 

Let me ask you this one on the disc conversation. Will it work with the full camber shims (adds -1* camber)?

 

two issues with the ep3 cables on the integra rear calipers: (1) they were too long and would invite binding issues, and (2) they didn't have the correct style end to connect to the caliper... they would work fine for the larger rotor/ep3 caliper setup but the longer run issue would still be present...

rear caliper pistons are the big X screw-in type...

i'll start off by saying that i don't have shims so i don't absolutely know...
BUT, yes they should work just fine... the adapter bolts onto the spindle and the shims are under the spindle so they won't really interact at all...

 

very nice, thank you very much.

 

Interesting... I'm currently curious to see if DC2R rear calipers will work with the Legend cables and this bracket. Sure, running this configuration is great since it is designed to as close to OEM as possible BUT I'm beginning to want the largest OEM Honda like brake/rotor combo possible on a 15... WITHOUT going to a 4 piston caliper for parts accessibly reasons.

 

np

trying to shift the brake bias rearward?

the good news is that with the bracket you should be able to use any integra gsr big rear disc conversion bracket on this... brackets on brackets

lmk what you come up with or if i can help

 

I just came to say that I like your car. Good work

 

Nope, debating on running DC2R (Type R) front (282mm) and rear (260mm) brakes now. Just haven't really decided yet since I JUST bought a set of AX6 Carbotechs within a week or two of someone posting ITR front brakes in here.

 

thank you sir! i like it too


hootie - lmk what i can help with

 

Thanks so much for figuring all this out!! Now that you've driven it for awhile any issues with brake bias? I'm guessing you didn't change the master cylinder or proportioning valve? Any other issues you've run into? Thanks again!

 

no issues at all... i like it... it's nice - the further you push the pedal, the more braking you get...

i know that might sound stupid, but the stock fit doesn't do that... stock only brakes up to a point...

 

Great to hear! Again, thanks for all the work and info. Gonna have to start ordering parts.

 

post pics!

 

Done...






Some notes here...
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-...ml#post1301918