How to modify skunk 2 coilovers (What did Raaaaaay do? lol)
#1
How to modify skunk 2 coilovers (What did Raaaaaay do? lol)
So after seeing Raaaaaays car before he totaled it, it convinced me to get the Pro-c coilovers. I would PM him, but he hasnt been on line for a year or so. For those that knew his setup and what he did to achieve such slammage, please chime in. For everyone that has them and modified them let me know what you did as well.
I know removing one or both of the perches in the rear, but I'm thinking he replaced springs or something else?
Any and all input is appreciated!
Thanks,
Mac
I know removing one or both of the perches in the rear, but I'm thinking he replaced springs or something else?
Any and all input is appreciated!
Thanks,
Mac
#4
You'll likely struggle to find it.
Go through his old threads, it might be in there.
Outside of that, most people on this site weren't around back when Ray roamed the forum.
Consider my original post though, that ride height made him go through components much faster than a normal person would and eventually led to the car's demise.
Go through his old threads, it might be in there.
Outside of that, most people on this site weren't around back when Ray roamed the forum.
Consider my original post though, that ride height made him go through components much faster than a normal person would and eventually led to the car's demise.
#5
All I was able to find was that the front coil overs were modified, he was pretty cryptic about the whole thing. Wanted to keep the title I assume. From what I could tell that was the lowest the rear would go. Again, cryptic.
I'd just run shorter springs on the front and no collars in the rear and tie the rear springs to the perch somehow so they don't fall out when you three wheel into driveways. Don't bother about shock travel and all that it's pointless at that height anyway.
Or be totally JDM and run nosus. LOL but US roads do not = Japanese roads.
I'd just run shorter springs on the front and no collars in the rear and tie the rear springs to the perch somehow so they don't fall out when you three wheel into driveways. Don't bother about shock travel and all that it's pointless at that height anyway.
Or be totally JDM and run nosus. LOL but US roads do not = Japanese roads.
#6
Rear perches were cut, most likely in half. Not hard to do considering they are just a chunk of billet aluminum.
Just without the perches in the rear though, most cars will have significant rear fender/tire fitment issues. You can get the full contact camber shims I had made to help clear though. Shoot me a PM if interested.
S2 rear shocks are CRAP. I have two sets, both with "40K miles" and they are both DEAD. The only benefit is that they are adjustable body length, so they can be used to SLAM the rear. I would recomend a set of the modified Koni Yellow's for the rear from RedShift (now at BestSuspension.com) but I do not know how well they will work if your goal is to SLAM the car. You would have to run incredibly tiny bump stops at the least.
Front S2 coils will allow you to drop the car at least 3 inches.... With HORRIBLE effects to steering geometry. You can adjust them shorter than the included adjustable end links will go. I can't really see a reason to modify them... Maybe to attempt to get a better angle or more clearance for a extremely short end link? Only modification I made was torrington thrust type washers (These guys: 4x and 2x ) to eliminate bind and Swift springs to change the rates and save some weight.
The 6K barrel type rear springs they come with for the rear are SOFT and semi progressive. Good for a daily but MEH for performance. Without the collars though, they will ride LOW.
I'm sure I forgot something... I just picked up a second full set of Pro C's so I can ship the front strut/damper cartridges out to be rebuilt/used as templates to make me some custom valved pimpy performance shocks for AutoX.
Just without the perches in the rear though, most cars will have significant rear fender/tire fitment issues. You can get the full contact camber shims I had made to help clear though. Shoot me a PM if interested.
S2 rear shocks are CRAP. I have two sets, both with "40K miles" and they are both DEAD. The only benefit is that they are adjustable body length, so they can be used to SLAM the rear. I would recomend a set of the modified Koni Yellow's for the rear from RedShift (now at BestSuspension.com) but I do not know how well they will work if your goal is to SLAM the car. You would have to run incredibly tiny bump stops at the least.
Front S2 coils will allow you to drop the car at least 3 inches.... With HORRIBLE effects to steering geometry. You can adjust them shorter than the included adjustable end links will go. I can't really see a reason to modify them... Maybe to attempt to get a better angle or more clearance for a extremely short end link? Only modification I made was torrington thrust type washers (These guys: 4x and 2x ) to eliminate bind and Swift springs to change the rates and save some weight.
The 6K barrel type rear springs they come with for the rear are SOFT and semi progressive. Good for a daily but MEH for performance. Without the collars though, they will ride LOW.
I'm sure I forgot something... I just picked up a second full set of Pro C's so I can ship the front strut/damper cartridges out to be rebuilt/used as templates to make me some custom valved pimpy performance shocks for AutoX.
#7
Appreciate the advice so far. Thanks for the help. Tyler Im gonna hit you up on fb when I get them and start playing around with them. If any other older og members know any tips I appreciate it. Ray keeping quiet about it makes sense
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