Honestly... If anyone ever did make this work or found a solution... I would like to know as well >_<

 

this will not fit. ive stated that it will not fit without modifications. If you want to modify the torsion bar or fuel line, do so at your own risk, and i do not recommend messing with those.

im back with the progress bar. i wont get into discussion about if the progress bar is a real bar or not, that topic has been talked about.

nope

 

sucks that the whiteline sway bar wont work with the usdm fits. that would be awesome. do you have the gd or the ge fit?

 

Im gonna purchase this bar. I have the 19 mm progress bar.and need more rotation. This is where its at. Good find.

 

No one was able to make it fit on a USDM Fit...

I had a similar experince with there front caster increasing LCA bushings. They were designed on an entirely different chassis than the US spec car.

With that said, I am also searching for a source of more consistent and reliable rotation. If you do drop the $$$ and find a SAFE way to fit this adjustable bar, +REP AND I WILL EMULATE YOU

 

Im gonna buy it and make it fit even if modifications needed.

 

Pretty pretty please document it for others!!!

 

[QUOTE=Previc93;1169789 need more rotation. [/QUOTE] Run more air in the rear/run a rear tire with a higher twr/ run a tire that's not as wide in the rear.

 

^All good advice. I am doing some of that now. I run at least an additional 10PSI in the rears as opposed to the fronts, but my Toyo T1R's really prefer lower pressures (they wear the center FAST if at higher PSI.) Also, for the purposes of competing for contingency prizes at national levels, all 4 of my tires have to be the same : / I also run with the E light on...

 

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^E light?

 

Low on fuel Trying to cut weight, at roughly 8 pounds per gallon I seem to be OK for 6+ AutoX runs with the light on. I always bring 2 gallons with me though just in case. Have had no problems with starvation.

 

I havent wanted to result to smaller tires in rear as i like to rotate them each event. But have that if nothing else works. I got stiffer rear springs and have the shock adjusted to full hard and my rear tires i have at 40psi hot and fronts at 36 hot. Running rs3 tires.

 

What are your current spring rates?

What damper/shocks are you running?

I ran the RS3 last season and LOVED them. They had excellent feed back and wore well making them a great learning tire for me. Once they had heat in them, the grip was excellent... As long as I had a co driver, I did great

I', on Toyo T1R 195 50R15's now and they are FAST. Much higher grip overall, especially in the cold or damp. A very odd feel though, and certainly less durable, i may only get 50 or so AutoX runs out of them before they need to be flipped due to my driving style and soft spring rates

As a side note, I ran 32 psi cold front and rear on the RS3's and now run 30psi front 40psi rear cold on the T1R's

 

Running ksport coilovers with ksport front springs at 9.8k and used to have ksport 7.5 k but moved up to swift 10 k rears cold tire pressures I'm running 28 up front and 33 in rear. Depending on track.

Im running 225 45 15 tires and have -2.6 camber up front and -1.8 in rear. Also have progress rear sway bar.

 

Good luck! I hope that it works for you. The adjustable feature of the bar might make it worth the expense and the labor for the modifications, and would make it a real competitor for Progress (for those who are willing to modify it).

 

Back from the dead thread!!!

Has anyone gotten this bar to work? I tried the WL bar the other day a day and there is no way it even lines up.

Looking at the picture above its not even close to what it's like on the USDM Fits. The bar goes straight while the strut bolt end go on an angle. The hardware they give you doesn't fit around the torsion beam as well. I was thinking about getting hardware that will work and making some sort of bracket to mount the end like to the bar.

 

I never did. I just bought stiffer rear springs. I would.like to get it though. But just don't know what the problem is with the fitment

 

The problem with that is rotation. I went stiffer rear spring (14K) and new struts to handle the rates but lost rotation. I was hoping this bar would work and help increase rotation for the stiffer rear. Looking into some mods to make this bar work or I'll be going custom.

 

it was never designed to fit the USDM chassis the rear swing arm and the fuel lines are totally different and that screws the majority of the install. I ended up making shims for more camber and towing the rear end out slightly and sticking with the progress rear bar. I also run higher rear pressures by quite a bit.

still if you go custom and you get something fab. That works let me know I'd be all over getting to run a slightly softer rear spring rate cuz I live at 13 K right now myself lol

 

I'm not sure how you lost rotation unless you also went with a stickier tire as well I've noticed my tire is more understeer.

I'm still at 10k front and rear and have the T1R front bar which I don't want anymore and the progress rear sway bar. I run the rear shocks full stiff and the front shocks at about 75% stiff. I never touched the rear alignment and the front is 0 toe and -3.2 degrees. I run 35psi front and 38psi rear tire pressures hot. The setup was perfect on street tires but when I went to r comps it's not much.

I'm completely reducing my car setup and it will be 12k front with oem bar and I'll get 14k 16k and 18k rear spring rates with the progress rear bar. Hopefully with the cage the chassis will be rigid enough to do what I want it to.