Specific Set Up Question
#1
Specific Set Up Question
OK, so, I've looked all over this forum and found a bunch of usefull info but am trying to be extra cautious because in the past I've rushed into stuff and gotten burned.
Anyway, I need new springs. Here's the thing(s)
1. I need a pretty mild drop, I have an Eibach Pro Kit now, and it's too low.
2. I would like improved cornering, and though I'm sure this is a result of any lowering spring I'd want the best cornering considering the rest of my conditions.
3. The biggest problem I have is my wheels. They're 16's and they've got a +40 offset. This combined with the drop made for some pretty scary scraping on the walls of my rear tires going over harsh bumps or whenever I had passengers in the back.
4. Though I do like my wheels, if it is the general opinion of anyone responding to this thread that I'm not going to be able to get any results without replacing the wheels, I'll start researching for those - if anybody want's to help they need to be 16's as I'd want to continue to use my Parada Spec 2's.
Thanks a lot in advance for your help guys.
Anyway, I need new springs. Here's the thing(s)
1. I need a pretty mild drop, I have an Eibach Pro Kit now, and it's too low.
2. I would like improved cornering, and though I'm sure this is a result of any lowering spring I'd want the best cornering considering the rest of my conditions.
3. The biggest problem I have is my wheels. They're 16's and they've got a +40 offset. This combined with the drop made for some pretty scary scraping on the walls of my rear tires going over harsh bumps or whenever I had passengers in the back.
4. Though I do like my wheels, if it is the general opinion of anyone responding to this thread that I'm not going to be able to get any results without replacing the wheels, I'll start researching for those - if anybody want's to help they need to be 16's as I'd want to continue to use my Parada Spec 2's.
Thanks a lot in advance for your help guys.
#2
Stay with your wheels,look into Mugen springs with the J's racing adjustable dampers.
Your rubbing and whatnot because of the stock shocks. In lamens terms, they suck. Mugen springs give the least aggressive drop known to mankind, and the adjustable dampers will help your handling.
Your rubbing and whatnot because of the stock shocks. In lamens terms, they suck. Mugen springs give the least aggressive drop known to mankind, and the adjustable dampers will help your handling.
#4
What about the stock shocks? Should I look into simply replacing those, or replacing those as well as getting new springs?
Coilovers seem like a good idea but pretty expensive.
Thanks guys keep the suggestions coming, I need help on this one!
Coilovers seem like a good idea but pretty expensive.
Thanks guys keep the suggestions coming, I need help on this one!
#7
If you're replacing your stock springs and dampers piecemeal, chances are the spring rate of the springs and the compression/rebound settings of the dampers aren't built to match one another from the get-go. The best you can do is make an educated guess and experiment with what combo works best (e.g. which will work better with my stock dampers, Swift Sport springs or Skunk2 springs?).
Coilovers by comparison are a set of springs and dampers made to match from day one. They are built from one maker, and have been tuned and designed so that their spring rates and damping are "correct" for that combination. Their main benefit is that the guesswork of matching spring rates and damping behavior is eliminated.
That you can adjust the damping and ride height on some coilovers is a bonus...that said, some of the cheaper coilover sets such as the TEIN Basic Compact set don't have adjustable damping.
HTHs
#9
It's all about how they all match up.
If you're replacing your stock springs and dampers piecemeal, chances are the spring rate of the springs and the compression/rebound settings of the dampers aren't built to match one another from the get-go. The best you can do is make an educated guess and experiment with what combo works best (e.g. which will work better with my stock dampers, Swift Sport springs or Skunk2 springs?).
Coilovers by comparison are a set of springs and dampers made to match from day one. They are built from one maker, and have been tuned and designed so that their spring rates and damping are "correct" for that combination. Their main benefit is that the guesswork of matching spring rates and damping behavior is eliminated.
That you can adjust the damping and ride height on some coilovers is a bonus...that said, some of the cheaper coilover sets such as the TEIN Basic Compact set don't have adjustable damping.
HTHs
If you're replacing your stock springs and dampers piecemeal, chances are the spring rate of the springs and the compression/rebound settings of the dampers aren't built to match one another from the get-go. The best you can do is make an educated guess and experiment with what combo works best (e.g. which will work better with my stock dampers, Swift Sport springs or Skunk2 springs?).
Coilovers by comparison are a set of springs and dampers made to match from day one. They are built from one maker, and have been tuned and designed so that their spring rates and damping are "correct" for that combination. Their main benefit is that the guesswork of matching spring rates and damping behavior is eliminated.
That you can adjust the damping and ride height on some coilovers is a bonus...that said, some of the cheaper coilover sets such as the TEIN Basic Compact set don't have adjustable damping.
HTHs
#10
Straight off TEIN Japan's website.
?????????BASIC COMPACT / HONDA
BASIC COMPACT - GD3
Recommended ride height drop range:
Front 4.5-6.5 cm (1.77-2.56") / Rear 2-4 cm (0.79-1.57")
Max ride height drop range: Front 4.3-7.5 cm (1.69-2.95") / Rear 1.3-4.7 cm (0.51-1.85")
?????????BASIC COMPACT / HONDA
BASIC COMPACT - GD3
Recommended ride height drop range:
Front 4.5-6.5 cm (1.77-2.56") / Rear 2-4 cm (0.79-1.57")
Max ride height drop range: Front 4.3-7.5 cm (1.69-2.95") / Rear 1.3-4.7 cm (0.51-1.85")
#11
I'm guessing I'd want to be within the recommended range for the best performance and in the rear the .79 would probably be ok, but the front I would probably want to go with less than a 1.5 inch drop - how's that going to affect the set up?
#14
Progress RSB for the handling and springs for lowering. U can find both cheap on here used. Or coils same thing find some on here used. I have progress springs for sale i just bought a RSB and now i found a great deal on T1R coils. So i am going with coils and the RSB. I got mine for $700 shiped and they only hace about 2300 miles on them new they go for around $1200 i belive.
#16
I might be able to offer some relevant advice;
I run a set of Tanabe GF210's; these springs and the Swift ones (I think) offer the least amount of drop available to the Fit. (about 1.5" in the front and 1" in the rear). However they are remarkably good at giving a much more responsive and better handling drive.
Like you I have fought and fought with rubbing issues, I have taken my car out to autocross and a minor rubbing problem can quickly turn into major issue causing damage to your fenders and tires under those conditions. Here are my basic findings;
-I was using 17" rims on my car, with a +42 offset and 205/40 tires I rubbed on stock suspension
-With a 17" rim & +45 offset I did not rub with 205/40's... however after the springs were installed the rubbing returned.
-With a 17" rim, +45 offset & odd sized 195/40 tires I had zero rubbing
Now, I am planning to pick up a 15" or 16" rim with a +45 offset wheel. I think with a 16" rim and +45 offset mixed up with 205/45 rubber I should be ok... however I will probably go with a 15" rim and 205/50 instead just to be sure. Exchanging rims and tires is time consuming and can have cost implications, better safe than sorry IMO.
Any questions
Hopefully this helps, rubbing sucks! I know lots of people run +42 and even lower offsets with "minor rubbing" under certain conditions; but I use my car for packing lots of stuff and autocross and in both situations I need zero-rubbing.
I also run a 24mm front sway bar, after really looking in depth on how the deflection of the bar behaves I believe any car that is dropped from stock height with benefit greatly from it. With stock height the stock sway bar does not have as much load and probably is sufficient. I did notice a much firmer feel and it seemed to hold better when I was hitting off-ramps and corners on the course after I installed the bar. I like it and would recommend it.
I run a set of Tanabe GF210's; these springs and the Swift ones (I think) offer the least amount of drop available to the Fit. (about 1.5" in the front and 1" in the rear). However they are remarkably good at giving a much more responsive and better handling drive.
Like you I have fought and fought with rubbing issues, I have taken my car out to autocross and a minor rubbing problem can quickly turn into major issue causing damage to your fenders and tires under those conditions. Here are my basic findings;
-I was using 17" rims on my car, with a +42 offset and 205/40 tires I rubbed on stock suspension
-With a 17" rim & +45 offset I did not rub with 205/40's... however after the springs were installed the rubbing returned.
-With a 17" rim, +45 offset & odd sized 195/40 tires I had zero rubbing
Now, I am planning to pick up a 15" or 16" rim with a +45 offset wheel. I think with a 16" rim and +45 offset mixed up with 205/45 rubber I should be ok... however I will probably go with a 15" rim and 205/50 instead just to be sure. Exchanging rims and tires is time consuming and can have cost implications, better safe than sorry IMO.
Any questions
Hopefully this helps, rubbing sucks! I know lots of people run +42 and even lower offsets with "minor rubbing" under certain conditions; but I use my car for packing lots of stuff and autocross and in both situations I need zero-rubbing.
I also run a 24mm front sway bar, after really looking in depth on how the deflection of the bar behaves I believe any car that is dropped from stock height with benefit greatly from it. With stock height the stock sway bar does not have as much load and probably is sufficient. I did notice a much firmer feel and it seemed to hold better when I was hitting off-ramps and corners on the course after I installed the bar. I like it and would recommend it.
Last edited by Sugarphreak; 02-12-2009 at 12:35 AM.
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