I got an used fit a month ago with 20k, stock on everything except for wheels and tires with the same specs as OEM. At first, whenever I drive with passenger I would noticed scraping noise as I go over bumps and uneven road. I discovered that the scraping noise was caused by the driver side rear tire touching the rear fender as it goes up and down over bumps. The aftermarket tire is probably a little fatter than original thus there are clear signs of cut marks on the tire from the fender. I also noticed that the driver side rear tire is about half an inch lower than the passenger rear unloaded and alot more when loaded. I took the car to get checked out and the mech. found the driver side rear shock was leaking. I changed that shock out with another one from the yard. However, now the compression is still uneven and the tire still scrape the fender when I got over uneven road. It might happen less than before but still does so. I'm thinking it's the spring and probably going to change out the spring on that side in a couple of days. Anyone has a different opinion though?

 

what is the wheel's specs and tire name size you're running?

the FitS is notoroious for being uneven in the rear. one way
to fix that is to get coilovers and set the rears uneven by
about 1".

or you can try raising the lower side by adding a donut
spacer above the rear spring top mount... ..but you only
got like 1" working area so a 1/2" spacer is not going to net
you much change.

you can also get it to flatten by using the progress rear swaybar
as it binds the ends of the torsion beam together.

 

Sportmax Rim with Egerutti tire @ 195/55/15. I was thinking the rear spring on the driver side is weaker. So you're saying changing it out to another stock one wont make a difference? I'm surprised you said FitS is notorious for being uneven on the back but i'm pretty sure it's not supposed to be this bad. I see there's a 60 degree bent bar going from the middle to the rear driver side suspension. Is this thing adjustable at all or have anything to do with the problem? I'll probably raise the car up today and take a more careful look at suspension set up. thanx

 

No, its not adjustable. By any chance, do you think your Fit has been wrecked?

As for the wheels, we need specs on them. Size, width, and offset is most important.

 

I'm curious, why is the fit sport more notorious for rear uneveness... What differs between the base and the sport that could be remotely related aside from the body kit, rims and tires? I doubt some fairly light pieces of ABS plastic could cause that.

 

if the torsion beam is visually bent from the center of the car then
obviously it is screwed up. even if you change the coil spring i doubt
it can over power the torsion beam's torque.

the beam itself should appear visually flat to the naked eye.
it is until you put weight on the car you notice that the rear ride
heights are not even Fit or Fit Sport running stock suspension.

put your stock cars on a flat garage floor and measure the heights.
some of them (including mine) came from the factory with uneven
heights on the rear. mine has preload of about 9mm which i dialed
out using my EnduraTechs.

run a search. i read a few thread where people were talking about
the uneven rear heights.

 

btw, wats the specs on the sportmax wheels? width, offset.

im thinking they are 7" wide +38 or +40. never heard of that tire you're
running. if you're running the above spec wheels, you're going to need
to run at least a 195/50/15.

 

Wow, 9mm is a good 3/8"... I guess that's one to chalk up for the awkward way the torsion beam is designed on the fit. Now that you've pointed that out, It's a little backwards than what I've seen on my B15 SE-R Spec-V...

 

The torsion beam seems flat to me but if you can discribe more ways to recognize something is wrong with it would be great. The previous owner put on a brand new rim and tire package so i have no idea what the specs are on the rim. I jacked up the rear end up today to look at the suspension and to my surprise, without any load and being on the jack stand, the rear driver side actually sprung out more than the passenger side. I measured the springs to be 11 inch on the driver side vs. 10 inch on the passenger side. Again that was unloaded on a jack stand. When i put the car down the spring on the driver side is more compressed than the passenger as I stated before. I am really confused. Any thoughts?

 

leo- take the springs out on the rear and swap them out driver side and
passenger side. see if that changes anything.

it's only 2 bolts. one bolt at the bottom of each rear shock. remove
both in a pair while your rear is off the ground.

40lbs/ft on the rear shock bottom bolt.

 

So i finally got the right tools to open up the nuts and swap the springs. One of the nut was over tighten and it took me forever to loosen it. Unfortunately, the problem did not go away or shift to the other side so I can rule out the problems with the spring. Now i am wondering if the torsion beam is adjustable? Can anyone advise me on this? I also wondered if I could change the springs from another car cuz it seems that these springs are so spongy. Would springs from any other cars fit the Fit? Thanx

 

torsion beam is not adjustable. it's like a non-adjustable swaybar.

you should just get the progress rear swaybar and lock the
ends together, or do wat i do and get coilovers. my car has preload
but now sits dead even.

you can try other springs from another fit, but i can almost guarantee
that wat you're seeing is the torsion beam preload, not the springs.

 

Could you clarify or explain how the torsion beam preload can cause uneveness in the rear wheels and springs? I am trying to see if i can fix the back by using stock items either from the fit or other cars because i can get hook up from the junk yard through someone i know.

 

leoster- consider the torsion beam as being in a shape of a U.

The springs/tires are at the tips of the U.

if the torsion beam is bent out of shape with preload when you place
the U on flat ground it will not lay flat. it will be twisted.

that twist is causing one side of the car to ride higher than ther other
side. the only way to compensate for this twist on a torsion beam
is to place positive force on it at a neutral state to force the twisted
U to lay flat on the ground.

you can do this by locking the ends of the U with the progress rear
swaybar, or by offsetting the height of your rear springs by 1" or more.

your overall rear height of the car will depend on how much compensation
you can achieve within the allowable room you have. on a coilover kit
like on mine, i have offset the L/R by about 22mm and still have room
to lower the car by another 7-8mm.

on other non-torsion beam suspension, the swaybar asks as the
torsion beam. so on those cars you can just get adjustable endlinks
and offset the twist. infact having adjustable endlinks is important
on those suspension systems when running coilovers as it will have
no effect on the corner weights (corner heights). swaybar/torsion
beam can affect the ride height of the corner by preload...

 

Thanx alot for the explaination. It all makes sense now. I had a different image of the "torsion beam" before. I thought it was the bar that is attached to the rear driver side suspension and run to the middle of the car with about 60 degree bend. What is that bar called then? How does it affect the suspension? For now, thanx again for your explaination kenchan. I guess i will take a look at the torsion beam tomorrow on the ground and being raised see if it is flat.