ok, so i've had my Fit for a few months and yesterday i got my Progress springs and RSB.

I was going to install myself and then read about axels coming out, cutting bumpstops and spring compressors and thought i would let a shop do it.

BUT, now im reading about how you should not do springs with stock shocks and im wondering, is it even worth installing the springs? i mean, i dont want to ruin the shocks in 6 months and have to spend more money replacing them. Should one just save enough and get coilovers and get it over with at once???

i cant imagine the shocks being that big an issue with SO MANY people dropping their cars by installing springs only. am i just being too paranoid about the shocks? will i ruin them really quickly by dropping it on progress springs only?

this started out as a simple "i'll get new springs and drop it myself" to " i have to get a shop to install and cut bumpstops, align and possibly ruin my shocks"

 

even if you let the shop do it unless they are specifically aware of
those cv's popping out they too will pop it out by accident. as i
mentioned many times, you just need to support the knuckle while the
strut is off the car. no issue. ive taken apart my sus 5-6 times already
with no issue.


as far as bumpstops... it's really no big deal either. just pry it out
from the boot and just cut with a utility knife.

shocks... as long as the spring rates are not that high and working
within the dampers' design it should last a good 25k miles or more.
talk to TOOL. he has both the progress springs and rearsway, and
as far as i know, he likes his setup.

have a local fit buddy help you out with the install.

 

thanks Kenchan...i guess i'm feeling a little overwhelmed with all the info out there

 

If you run aftermarket lowering springs with your stock dampers (shocks), then you run the risk of possibly maxing out and blowing your dampers. The stock dampers are made to work with the spring and have a set amount of suspension travel. If you get shorter springs that lower the car, say, 1" all around, then your dampers will have 1" less travel before bottoming out.

It's OK to just get springs if you want a lowered stance and some improved handling, but you'll have to be careful about dips and bumps and all that jazz. If you got the money for it, then get springs and dampers that work together (coilover set-up) so you don't run the risk of destroying or damaging your stock dampers and so you can get the full advantage of an upgraded suspension system that works in harmony.

If you're curious about what makes a good suspension set-up, then look here: https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-...on-theory.html

 

Oh, and regardless of which way you go (springs or coil-overs) and depending how much of a drop you have, you will need to go get your alignment adjusted. When you lower the car, you're changing the entire suspension geometry, which will change your toe (I think) and your camber.

 

It's not really as complicated as you're feeling it to be, osarias. Lowering your car on springs and stock dampers will work just fine as far as improving your appearance and the handling of the car. It isn't without its tradeoffs, notably the increased wear on your dampers decreasing their lifespan. Right now, that seems like a much bigger deal to you because you aren't yet comfortable replacing them. Once you've had your suspension apart a time or two, you won't be so intimidated by the thought of having to swap dampers out a bit more often than if you kept the stock setup...and likely by the time you need to replace your stock dampers, there will be better aftermarket options available that will more easily handle being lowered on springs anyway.

I've had good success with Eibach springs, which are designed to be used with stock shocks/struts (while admitting that aftermarket dampers would provide an additional performance gain). Honestly, I rarely carry passengers and I don't weigh my car down with useless crap, so even lowered, I'm basically operating within the tolerances of the stock dampers as though I didn't lower the car but carried passengers regularly.

 

I just installed my progress springs yesterday.. it isn't hard if you know what to look out for.. and yes my axel did pop out on one side but i can tell you what to do to prevent it from happening.. The back springs are a breeze easier if you have a friend but can still be done without one..

I'm just gonna describe how to prevent the axels from popping out so here goes...

once you take the wheel off before you loosen the hub bolts place a jack with a piece of wood on it right under two of your hub bolts and make sure the jack is applying just a tad bit of pressure then remove the hub bolts and leave the jack in place and you will be able to remove the strut no problem..

You will need a spring compressor for the front struts and you can borrow one from Advanced auto or autozone. Then just put the new springs on and make sure they are seated properly and put the strut back in and screw everything together.

For the rear if you don't have help make sure you have 2 jack stands and 2 jacks.. jack up the car and place a jack stand under the rear by the tow hook and one where you would normally place it under the re-enforced beams on the side.. then remove the jack (obviously loosen wheel nuts first) remove the wheel and then put a jack under the drum so that it doesn't fall when you remove the strut bolt under the car. Once you remove the bolt (safe to remove jack from under drum) take your standard car jack and place it inbetween the frame of the car and the A frame? the part that the drum is connected to and start applying pressure so that so that the drum begins to compress towards the ground and the spring will start to uncompress and then you can just use a screw driver to remove the springs.. remove both rubber stops and place them on your new springs (tightly wound side up) and then reseat them to the car... hold them in place and unwind the jack... replace the strut bolt under the car and your done!

I hope this helps and sorry for long paragraphs but its really easy to do.. I did not cut my bump stops but you can if you want.

 

wow, that's awefully a lot of steps to do the rear.

here's wat i did... jackup car place on jack stands. remove rear wheels.
place a hydraulic under one of the drums on the rear. remove the two
14mm bolts on the bottom of the 2 shocks.

lower drum. walla. your springs will fall out.

 

thank you guys for all the input, my mind is more at ease with everything.

DagerOne, your explanation makes sense about driving around as if you had passengers, i also dont carry anything in my car and hardly every have passengers.

I think Im going to be alright...

 

what did you lower the drum with.. and thats the same amount of steps that i've stated but i used more description..

jack up car
use jack stands
use jack under hub
loosen bolts
remove jack under hub
and lower drum(using the jack because mine didn't just fall out i had to work to get them out)

 

i used a hydraulic under the drum, so i lowered the hydraulic.

 

If you know how to PROPERLY work on a car the axle shouldn't be any problem what-so-ever. The RIGHT way to do it is take the bolt off the axle and pull the axle out of the hub before disassembling. Takes an extra minuet and avoids the issue all together.

 

or just support the knuckle when the strut is out... easier, imho.

 

that's my issue, i dont know how to "properly" do it, so i've made an appt for monday and I'll let the shop do it... hopefully I can come back with good news.

 

how do you figure that jacking it up limiting the movement on thats side and hoping it doesn't slip off or get bumped off and separate the joint is easier then removing 1 nut? It took literally 1 minuet and eliminates any chance of the axle coming apart. I've seen a few threads where people have said they tried to support it and it popped apart anyway.

Not trying to be a dick but that's like saying why use a jack and jack stand, it's easier to just use a jack.

 

because i use a hydraulic to assist in the installation of the strut
and putting vehicle load on the assembly while i tighten the piston
nut and the two strut nuts on the bottom. the hydraulic is not
there just to prevent the cv from popping out.

im done arguing with you. let's move on.

 

If your 'new' springs drop more than an inch, perhaps inch and a half max, you will run into all those problems, and then some.

 

hummm.... the DF210's i had dropped the car about -1.7" front -1.5" rear
and there was no issues with fitment or noise.

it actually rode fairly well for the most part. but 'the most part' is not to
my standards, thus why went to enduratechs.