Originally Posted by Skimmer

I recently installed the Monroe air shocks, too, and I did it exactly as described by SSM above. My only complaint about the whole setup is the "interior panel noise" he describes. I only notice it when the car goes over short, sharp bumps, like pavement expansion joints, when the noise is like a slight thump, almost as though something is loose. I'm not really sure what causes this. But I suspect it's because the upper rubber bushing that comes with the Monroe shock, which you have to install between the shock and body, as SSM described, isn't as big as the OEM Honda bushing, so it might transmit this noise to the body.

Otherwise, I'm pleased with these shocks. They help make the rear suspension feel part of the chassis, instead of just going along for the ride. And they are noticeably firmer than the OEM shocks and seem to have removed some of the understeer that's noticeable in aggressive street driving. My hope is they will make the car more neutral handling, and will reduce some of the wheelspin that was a problem for me in autocross. I'll find out at my next race on April 26.

As for pressures, I'm running 25 pounds in the shocks. This gives me a nice level ride height when my two dogs are in the back of the car (instead of sagging with the OEM shocks). An even 20 pounds would work just fine if you don't need to raise the rear a little. The shocks basically start raising the car as soon as they get any air at all.

The only other concern is that these shocks are fatter than the OEM shocks. I still have clearance for my 205/50/15 race tires, but it's tight.

Here's a pic of the installed shock. You can just barely see the two washers installed on either side of the shock eye at the bottom.

Originally Posted by SSM0423

that groan/creak noise that I've been hearing for the past few days has gotten me enough to look for it. To make a long story short - try getting a rubber mallet and tapping on the right-rear tire while listening inside the car (with the hatch open). At certain impacts, I would hear a vibrating thudding panel noise. I isolated it to the right rear shock tower area. Before pulling the panel, I tried unbolting/removing the top shock-nut and washer that sits on the large OE top bushing. Tried the same tapping to simulate the uneven pavement and NO NOISE. Looked at the washer to see if it was too large (OE washer vs Cavalier shock-threaded area) and noticed that the washer could "jiggle" a little. Removed the OE Upper bushing (you can now see the small Cavalier-shock bushing thru the hole), lubed with white-grease. Teflon-taped the threaded area on the shock to elliminate the "jiggle". Re-installed the OE top bushing, washer and Cavalier-nut. Started tightening and noticed the teflon tape making a nice padding in between the nut and the washer while tightening. Did not tighten too much - once the OE bushing started to compress I stopped. Snugged vs Impacting on like we did at work. Tapped tire again - no noise. Did the same thing to the drivers rear - even if the noise wasn't noticable - no noise. Test drove - no noise. I made sure that while the top-nuts were removed - I bounced the car a few times to ensure it was level and the shock not loaded-up. My thoughts: either tightening down the shock too much was too much for the small cavalier lower bushing to handle and/or the washer/nut combo was creating an audible noise that simulated panel-type noise. Try this out - good luck!

Originally Posted by Evotech8

^I ordered these a few days ago too.

I'm hoping the Monroe shocks will have better compression/rebound stroke than stock?
Right now, the stock rear shocks are little too soft on rebound for my taste.


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Originally Posted by HEMI-Fit

Richard,
I forget where I posted these previously, but here are my notes on the rear shocks:

extended = 20-13/16"
compressed = 17" @ bump
lower loop = 0.409" id, 1.565" od
Upper stud = 0.381" threads
upper sleeve = 0.554" dia
upper washer = 1.910"

Still need to pull the dust cover off and check those bump stops...

Originally Posted by manxman

Some new info. to complicate things for interested folks who have not yet bought their air shocks:

In a PM exchange with member mrFroge, I found out that he installed air shocks made by Gabriel, who also makes air shocks for Chevy Cavalliers. According to him, Gabriel air shocks are rebuild-able. If my Monroe air shocks fail and I generally like their performance, I will replace them with Gabriels.

Originally Posted by SSM0423

cool - but if you ask around the general consensus is the Monroe's internal valving is better and producers a smoother ride. Being in the auto-industry - Gabriels don't last as long and the defect rate is much higher vs monroes; at least in my experience. To each his own though - good luck! Either way - the rear OE shocks seem to suck in comparison.. You'll be a believer when you get rid of the OE...MAN what a difference!

Originally Posted by Skimmer

I ran two autocrosses with the Monroe air shocks on Saturday and Sunday and they helped the handling tremendously. The car was way more balanced and controllable. I was able to do more trail-braking oversteer, there was less understeer overall, and the wheelspin problem I had before was much reduced. I still got some wheelspin, but at anything other than extreme cornering angles, the car would flatten out quicker, and the inside front tire would then grab and launch the car. It was way more satisfying.

BTW, I ran the shocks with the minimum recommended 20 pounds of pressure. Anything more would raise the rear of the car beyond the stock position. I didn't want to mess with the car's center of gravity like that, but it's possible more pressure would have helped to stiffen things further. Maybe I'll try a little more pressure next time.

Anyway, I'm pretty sure I won the H Stock class. Results aren't posted yet.

Originally Posted by richard612

So if the stocker's long elastomer bump-stop normally sets the compression limit for the suspension, what sets the compression limit with the new shocks? The tires smacking the wheel-wells?

Originally Posted by ciburri

Guys,
drilling a punch point is a standard procedure for installing lowering springs.
You are instructed by aftermarket spring manufacturer to shorten elastomer bump stops by 20-30mm (depending on how much lowering springs provide in contrast to OEM springs).
If you do not do it, with lowering springs you will have very little if any damper travel. You would practically "rest" on the elastomer bump stop.
Maybe you won't be able to tell driving a car by yourself unless you hit some serious dips in the bumpy canyons, take 3 people for a ride, or load your Fit up a bit with back seats folded down.

If you are swapping springs, but do not feel like drilling OEM damper, just purchase aftermarket bump stops from Energy Suspension or likewise.

With that cleared, I am hoping Monroe factored lovering springs in their equation, since I am not aware if you can take Monroe Air damper apart to install a bump stop. I never dealt with any.

If anybody could reliably shed some light for me on the subject, IMO, will be manxman! I know him and I trust his lifetime of engineering experience!
Also mahout's feedback is good. He is pushing his car more extremely than most and has experience through his job. So far he reports no issues.

Ivan

Originally Posted by manxman

Hi Ivan!
I don't know how much help I will be in this matter. I am not lowering my Fit because of road conditions where I live (no county budget left for pot hole repair, and winter tree falls & mudslides), so I don't have any interest in shock bump stop alterations. My Monroe air shocks will be here in a few days (5/1), and I plan to re-use as much of the stock bushings as I can when installing them. Will use stainless steel fender washers as spacers for the lower bracket/bolt mounts. Will post my impressions, and maybe another DIY/photo install.

"mrFroge" is running Gabriel air shocks, made to fit Chevy Cavalliers, on his AutoX Fit. He can almost certainly answer questions on how Cavallier-sized air shocks work with lowering springs, and whether or not the air shocks need to be altered to provide a usable stroke length.

BTW, for others thinking about buying air shocks, I already own several small battery powered air compressors for automotive use, and was looking around for the smallest one available to use with these air shocks and not take up too much space while stored in the car. At Ace Hardware, I found a high volume, 100 psi foot operated pump that is much smaller than most electrical compressors. Since I will be running the shocks at 20 psi most of the time when the car is unloaded, I doubt that I will need more than the 100 psi capacity of the foot operated pump even in occasional overload conditions. The pump only costs $10.00, and has its own gauge.