Brake Upgrades
#1
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: British Columbia
Posts: 1,920
Brake Upgrades
Hey, i' found this site in the new D Sport magazine.
FastBrake Enterprises, LLC - Intro
They actually have multifple number of performance brake upgradesfor the Fit.
Here's the DIRECT link for them:
Fastbrakes.com
I'm interested in their inhouse brand because of financials. $530 sounds good to me for a rotor, caliper, pads and steel lines upgrade!!!
BTW, does anyone konw if they're good or not?
FastBrake Enterprises, LLC - Intro
They actually have multifple number of performance brake upgradesfor the Fit.
Here's the DIRECT link for them:
Fastbrakes.com
I'm interested in their inhouse brand because of financials. $530 sounds good to me for a rotor, caliper, pads and steel lines upgrade!!!
BTW, does anyone konw if they're good or not?
#3
my fear is that they state the kits state for a 2006 fit, instead of the usdm's '07 MY.
their rear kit doesn't come with a hub like aj-racing will include in their kit, is there something the hub will help, or is it not neccessary?
looks like exactly what i wanted, but i'd like to see some people that have installed them.
their rear kit doesn't come with a hub like aj-racing will include in their kit, is there something the hub will help, or is it not neccessary?
looks like exactly what i wanted, but i'd like to see some people that have installed them.
#4
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: British Columbia
Posts: 1,920
I emailed them. Here's what it said:
"The Fit 11" setup will fit the stock 15" wheels, but not 14"
steelies"
Just in case ppl are wondering. I've got 15 inch OEM rims plus 14 inch winter tires. Too bad i can't upgrade without gettingrid of the snows
"The Fit 11" setup will fit the stock 15" wheels, but not 14"
steelies"
Just in case ppl are wondering. I've got 15 inch OEM rims plus 14 inch winter tires. Too bad i can't upgrade without gettingrid of the snows
#5
Rotors drilled all the way from one side to the other and not just small dimple holes tend to crack at the holes. They were very popular a few years ago until they started devdeloping cracks at the holes. The best ones now have slots milled in or small dimple holes that allow built up gasses to escape but are not all the way through.
Drilled rotors do not crack under normal conditions. its the people who road race and constantly heat up the brakes to the extremes of the sport. i bought some ebay drilled and slotted rotors for my car, been holding up just fine to my stopngo all city driving.
for daily driving, the rotor will not crack (assuming you buy a quality rotor in the first place.) fastbrakes.com is a legit site and dealer.
i'm sure most of you know, drilled slotted rotors, ss lines, bigger rotors generally do not help braking ability. they are mostly for cosmetics. -drilled/slotted-keeps pad cleaner and cools better, but CANNOT be resurfaced and reused after several pad changes. this is bad b/c deposits from old pads do not let the break-in compounds of the new pads to properly burn off on the rotors. so you'll end up replacing rotors every year or so. also, do not road race with drilled rotors.
-bigger rotors-increase surface area, BUT adds unsprung weight and counteracts benefit of bigger surface area.
-ss lines-more for pedal feel, if u're concerned with brake fade, get ATE blue brake fluid or Motul RBF600 Dot4.
if you really want added braking ability setup, you have 2 options.
-OEM blank rotors and better brake pads. SS lines and ATE/Motul fluid are extras. Hawk HPS and Axxis Ultimate pads are the best for daily. Axxis outperforms Hawk a bit but gets REAL dusty.
-Wilwood brake setup-bigger rotors, BUT aluminum center hat so less unsprung weight vs. weight of bigger solid rotors and even OEM rotors. 4 piston calipers, and all the benefits and cosmetics.
StopTech is the proven BEST aftermarket brake setup thats cheaper than Brembos. but at the moment, i dont think they have a kit for the Fit.
#6
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: British Columbia
Posts: 1,920
wow, love that writeup 03DSM-RSX. That's great!! it's nice to see they're smart ppl out there that are willing to take the time to have a informative reply!! Thanks!!
#7
glad to be of help. for more in depth info, stoptech.com has great writeups on explaining everything and dispells many myths associated with brake setups.
#8
Try reading this one of many. Here's a little starter quote from page 2
"One thing we see debated all the time is the concept of drilled rotors. Back in the day, brake pads generated quite a bit of out-gassing during heavy use, and the holes would help keep this gas from interfering with the pad-to-rotor contact. Modern pad technology has pretty much gotten rid of these gases, so why are the holes still there? The simple answer is that they look really cool. But, this bitchin' look comes at a price. If not done right, the holes are a recipe for cracking when subject to heavy use. Under hard driving, every hole can become a new place for a crack to form."
Try reading the whole series to get yourself up to date. Do a little looking and there more just like this one for your reading pleasure.
Braking Systems - Popular Hot Rodding Magazine
"One thing we see debated all the time is the concept of drilled rotors. Back in the day, brake pads generated quite a bit of out-gassing during heavy use, and the holes would help keep this gas from interfering with the pad-to-rotor contact. Modern pad technology has pretty much gotten rid of these gases, so why are the holes still there? The simple answer is that they look really cool. But, this bitchin' look comes at a price. If not done right, the holes are a recipe for cracking when subject to heavy use. Under hard driving, every hole can become a new place for a crack to form."
Try reading the whole series to get yourself up to date. Do a little looking and there more just like this one for your reading pleasure.
Braking Systems - Popular Hot Rodding Magazine
even they state that under "severe/heavy duty use" that its prone to cracking. we're talking about daily drivers here. stop n go driving, braking after 1/4mi drag racing will not bring the rotors to such danger zone. road racing is the where the brake system is really put to the test.
you need to read your own source:
For a street car that occasionally sees open-track days, there is no problem in using a properly engineered drilled rotor. You want to make sure the rotor was designed to be drilled, was drilled correctly, and that the holes have been at least chamfered to minimize stress and wear. If you plan on hitting the track a lot and really punishing your brakes, then you will be better served to forego the holes and run a solid rotor. Besides cracking, rotors are also subject to heat-checking, which is the precursor to cracking. Heat checks are very small cracks on the surface of the rotor caused by thermal stress. While they are not a cause for concern (yet), they do indicate that the disc is not getting adequate cooling and are a warning sign that cracks may follow.
if you're gona try to give advice, i suggest you just post up that link in the beginning instead of stating your opinion. ppl are better off knowing about the brake subject as a WHOLE. HAHAHA your "source" is proving me right. thanks!
Last edited by 03DSM-RSX; 01-08-2007 at 01:20 PM.
#9
i guess Porsche Carreras, Brembo, Stoptech, Rotora, Wilwood are all behind the times too huh?
Porsche, BMW, and Mercedes rotors are molded with the holes in them so the grain of the metal aligns around the holes. Cross drilled rotors are drilled after the rotors are molded so the holes go through the grain of the metal thus making it easy for for cracks to develop around the holes.
Last edited by 03DSM-RSX; 01-08-2007 at 11:32 PM.
#10
Gee I guess you haven't read the whole article yet another quote....
Also, we all see big rotors and think they look really great filling up that wheel, but there is an added benefit to large rotors. A larger rotor will have more mass for better heat control and the larger diameter will allow more leverage for the caliper. There is a point of diminishing return since as the rotor gets bigger it also gets heavier; lots of rotating mass robs acceleration and hinders stopping. Like all things in life, a happy medium needs to be kept.
Looks like you missed that part
Also, we all see big rotors and think they look really great filling up that wheel, but there is an added benefit to large rotors. A larger rotor will have more mass for better heat control and the larger diameter will allow more leverage for the caliper. There is a point of diminishing return since as the rotor gets bigger it also gets heavier; lots of rotating mass robs acceleration and hinders stopping. Like all things in life, a happy medium needs to be kept.
Looks like you missed that part
your own quote proves me right, yet again.
There is a point of diminishing return since as the rotor gets bigger it also gets heavier; lots of rotating mass robs acceleration and hinders stopping.
care to explain how porsche, bmw, etc are "behind on the times"?
Please make like brakes and stop, Claymore.
#11
A&J Racing :: Suspension & Brakes :: Fit/Jazz (GD3/4) :: T1R Rear Disc Brake conversion - Honda Fit 07 & up GD-3
this should be a rear brake option in the future.
this should be a rear brake option in the future.
#12
Here's what you said in post number 6
"i'm sure most of you know, drilled slotted rotors, ss lines, bigger rotors generally do not help braking ability. they are mostly for cosmetics"
and this is from the article "and the larger diameter will allow more leverage for the caliper."
So the question is who to believe you or the brake experts......
"i'm sure most of you know, drilled slotted rotors, ss lines, bigger rotors generally do not help braking ability. they are mostly for cosmetics"
and this is from the article "and the larger diameter will allow more leverage for the caliper."
So the question is who to believe you or the brake experts......
READ IT!!
leverage for the caliper (for larger 4/6piston calipers) does not mean increased/better braking ability! it says in the fuking same paragraph taht you posted!!
Gee I guess you haven't read the whole article yet another quote....
Also, we all see big rotors and think they look really great filling up that wheel, but there is an added benefit to large rotors. A larger rotor will have more mass for better heat control and the larger diameter will allow more leverage for the caliper. There is a point of diminishing return since as the rotor gets bigger it also gets heavier; lots of rotating mass robs acceleration and hinders stopping. Like all things in life, a happy medium needs to be kept.
Looks like you missed that part
Also, we all see big rotors and think they look really great filling up that wheel, but there is an added benefit to large rotors. A larger rotor will have more mass for better heat control and the larger diameter will allow more leverage for the caliper. There is a point of diminishing return since as the rotor gets bigger it also gets heavier; lots of rotating mass robs acceleration and hinders stopping. Like all things in life, a happy medium needs to be kept.
Looks like you missed that part
Last edited by 03DSM-RSX; 01-09-2007 at 11:48 AM.
#13
srsly i never met someone who cant read and understand their own source in an attempt to discredit someone else's statements, but in turn, the source they provide HELPS and SUPPORTS the other person's points.
whoever appointed you as moderator needs to recheck your recent posts. they have seen a new low.
whoever appointed you as moderator needs to recheck your recent posts. they have seen a new low.
#14
Big brake kits are sort of a band-aid to the source of the problem.
The stock brake rotors are too small, thin and retain too much heat. The heat is transferred to the brake calipers which in turn heats the brake fluid beyond its boiling point. When the brake fluid boils the gas bubbles in the brake lines compress and absorb the pressure placed on it from the brake master cylinder. The brake pedal gets spongy and you experience brake fade.
Brake fluid is the main reason why heat is a bad factor. Brake fade AFFECTS braking ability. lets say you change the fluid to ATE/Motul with higher boiling points. Honda fluid has a wet boiling point of 284*F. Motul has wet point of 421*F. Honda fluid boils a lot easier under extreme use and you'll notice brake fade easily. With Motul, the fluid doesnt boil as easily and braking system stays stable, not matter how hot the rotors/calipers get.
Now about your brake leverage argument, another potential downside of a brake upgrade is increased brake pedal travel. If the big brake kit has larger (or more) brake caliper pistons than stock (which most kits do), more brake fluid will have to be pushed through the brake system to move the pistons. The brakes will be biased and may also shift to more front brakes because a larger front rotor gives the caliper more "leverage" to stop the wheel. This bias shift may be offset by the new larger caliper's requirement for more brake fluid flow (more pedal movement). No where does it increase braking ability, but may make the brake pedal feel "longer".
The stock brake rotors are too small, thin and retain too much heat. The heat is transferred to the brake calipers which in turn heats the brake fluid beyond its boiling point. When the brake fluid boils the gas bubbles in the brake lines compress and absorb the pressure placed on it from the brake master cylinder. The brake pedal gets spongy and you experience brake fade.
Brake fluid is the main reason why heat is a bad factor. Brake fade AFFECTS braking ability. lets say you change the fluid to ATE/Motul with higher boiling points. Honda fluid has a wet boiling point of 284*F. Motul has wet point of 421*F. Honda fluid boils a lot easier under extreme use and you'll notice brake fade easily. With Motul, the fluid doesnt boil as easily and braking system stays stable, not matter how hot the rotors/calipers get.
Now about your brake leverage argument, another potential downside of a brake upgrade is increased brake pedal travel. If the big brake kit has larger (or more) brake caliper pistons than stock (which most kits do), more brake fluid will have to be pushed through the brake system to move the pistons. The brakes will be biased and may also shift to more front brakes because a larger front rotor gives the caliper more "leverage" to stop the wheel. This bias shift may be offset by the new larger caliper's requirement for more brake fluid flow (more pedal movement). No where does it increase braking ability, but may make the brake pedal feel "longer".
#15
oh btw, the #1 thing that helps braking ability: your tires. Better tires, better braking. simple as that.
Taken off of Stoptech:
The brakes don't stop the vehicle - the tires do. The brakes slow the rotation of the wheels and tires. This means that braking distance measured on a single stop from a highway legal speed or higher is almost totally dependent upon the stopping ability of the tires in use - which, in the case of aftermarket advertising, may or may not be the ones originally fitted to the car by the OE manufacturer.
Claymore, you (or anyone) can go do your own research on the internet and find the facts for yourself and they will go hand-in-hand with the points i've made. i'm not trying to impress you or anyone, just stating facts to clarify the subject. Yah, i may try to come off as a know-it-all, but i've been thru the same predicaments myself and found the internet to be a great learning tool.
Taken off of Stoptech:
The brakes don't stop the vehicle - the tires do. The brakes slow the rotation of the wheels and tires. This means that braking distance measured on a single stop from a highway legal speed or higher is almost totally dependent upon the stopping ability of the tires in use - which, in the case of aftermarket advertising, may or may not be the ones originally fitted to the car by the OE manufacturer.
Claymore, you (or anyone) can go do your own research on the internet and find the facts for yourself and they will go hand-in-hand with the points i've made. i'm not trying to impress you or anyone, just stating facts to clarify the subject. Yah, i may try to come off as a know-it-all, but i've been thru the same predicaments myself and found the internet to be a great learning tool.
Last edited by 03DSM-RSX; 01-09-2007 at 01:59 PM.
#17
i do own a Fit. Knowledge comes from experience. Just b/c i dont mod the Fit, doesnt mean i dont know jack shit. I worked on other ppl's cars as well, low end to high end. not just my own. i may use examples from mine b/c its one platform that i've pretty much touched it in every nook and cranny. Hey, i put in my bro's TRD supercharger in his tC. OMG thats 2 cars!!!11one!! I did not pronounce all of whatever. YOU requested me to be specific of MY experience, so think that i'm FLAUNTING b/c i do know better. So yes, i made a statement, AND i was prepared to back it up. Not used to it? FUK YOU MR. PWNED-BY-A-NOOBIE.
Brakes is a GENERAL topic. All brakes work the same way. "Dubious statements" my ass. All of what i said holds true, even YOU proved me right. Pulling the "NOOB" card is weaksauce. i guess post counts=size of e-dick right?? If so, i have 9k+ posts on another Honda forum. w00ptie d00!!
I called YOU out on it b/c your original post is WRONG. i proved you wrong, you proved me right, in attempts to prove me wrong. Are you pissed off b/c you were owned by a n00b? You STILL cant hold your to your own statements in trying to disprove me. If its not one thing, you ask another. You try to cover it up and say "its noob bait". yeah, right!
The bait? If you spreading misinformation INTENTIONALLY is bait then i'll gladly eat the bait and eat you along with it.
Theres nothing much different about a Fit/Jazz/RSX for that matter. They all work similarly. I dont see how a RSX's brake system is superior/inferior to the Fit. Engine dynamics/managment all work the same way. Theres nothing "special" about the Fit/RSX.
EVERYONE here can already see who the asshat is. ALL THE FACTS of what i said on this forum pertains to ANY car. If one thing was specific only to the RSX, i would not be advising anything on it. Theres assumptions, and there are things that hold true. I know the difference. I done on this thread. The facts are up, Claymore clearly supports it. /thread
Although i do believe that you're a stand-up person in reality. If we were to meet in person, surely we'd shake hands.
Have a nice day!
Brakes is a GENERAL topic. All brakes work the same way. "Dubious statements" my ass. All of what i said holds true, even YOU proved me right. Pulling the "NOOB" card is weaksauce. i guess post counts=size of e-dick right?? If so, i have 9k+ posts on another Honda forum. w00ptie d00!!
I called YOU out on it b/c your original post is WRONG. i proved you wrong, you proved me right, in attempts to prove me wrong. Are you pissed off b/c you were owned by a n00b? You STILL cant hold your to your own statements in trying to disprove me. If its not one thing, you ask another. You try to cover it up and say "its noob bait". yeah, right!
The bait? If you spreading misinformation INTENTIONALLY is bait then i'll gladly eat the bait and eat you along with it.
Theres nothing much different about a Fit/Jazz/RSX for that matter. They all work similarly. I dont see how a RSX's brake system is superior/inferior to the Fit. Engine dynamics/managment all work the same way. Theres nothing "special" about the Fit/RSX.
EVERYONE here can already see who the asshat is. ALL THE FACTS of what i said on this forum pertains to ANY car. If one thing was specific only to the RSX, i would not be advising anything on it. Theres assumptions, and there are things that hold true. I know the difference. I done on this thread. The facts are up, Claymore clearly supports it. /thread
Although i do believe that you're a stand-up person in reality. If we were to meet in person, surely we'd shake hands.
Have a nice day!
Last edited by 03DSM-RSX; 01-10-2007 at 10:07 AM.
#18
TBH, I don' tknow 03DSM from a hole in the ground. What he does offer up as knowledge is EXTREMELY truthful. I have had trial and error on quite a few of the subjects I have seen him post in. And in the end, I wish i met him 5-6-7 years ago. He could have saved me some $$$. I think it's better to have different perspectives here, than an on going pissing contest. Soooooo, how bout we kiss and make upo? awwww preez?
#19
i'm fine as long as Claymore stops trying to label me as a know-nothing n00b, and his job is to fish out the n00bs with his bait instead of taking care of forum members and properly research to provide his members with accurate information. if he is unfamiliar with the topic, he can steer members into the right direction of where they can find answers. I'm not here to flaunt or show off, i'm here to learn as well as share information, as with any forum. btw, i love my Fit.
i'm willing to shake hands.
i'm willing to shake hands.
Last edited by 03DSM-RSX; 01-10-2007 at 05:54 PM.
#20
fastbrakes makes good stuff. Good guy runs it too.
The wilwoods they sell (unless it is specified otherwise) do not have a dust seal, so they will need to be serviced more regularly. I had the 11" kit on my civic and they were great.
The wilwoods they sell (unless it is specified otherwise) do not have a dust seal, so they will need to be serviced more regularly. I had the 11" kit on my civic and they were great.