Hey guys!

Sorry if this is a dumb question, but...

I'm putting in a set of Pro-kit springs, and was thinking that while i'm at it, it might look better if the wheel's were out a bit - closer to flush w/ the openings... maybe a 10mm spacer?

(I really like the look of the 205 series tires - they seem to fill the opening much nicer. But i'm a little short on cash, and want to stick w/ the stock rims. So thought thought popped into my head "maybe you can get the same outside-lineup as the 205's, while sticking on the stock rubber")


Anyway - never messed w/ wheels before. Thinking about it, it seems like it'd be fine, but figured I might be missing something. Am I missing something? Any downsides to adding offset?


(Running the stock 2010 Sport 16" wheels)

 

Hope those help explain whats going on with various wheel specs!

Adding a spacer may help you clear the spring seat/knuckle but it could push the wheel close enough to rub or hit on the outside of the tire.

The best way to approximate it would be to get a couple tape measures and straight edges. It might help if they are in millimeters though!

 

three words...don't do it!
1. it will screw up the geometry of your suspension...will not handle right.
2. adding a wheel spacer is just like putting a cheater bar on your wrench. It will significantly increase the load on your wheel bearings...not good!
3. wheel studs get a real boost in load too...loosing a wheel can't be fun.

 

Sure, you can add 10mm spacers and 205/50R16s without lowering and shouldn't rub (I'd still do more research before buying though). The additional 10mm from the spacer would bring your wheel offset to +43mm.

You'd just have to either get the two piece spacers that work with a 4 x 100 bolt pattern and have the lugs built into them or get a regular one piece 10mm spacer with extended lugs. Just do not put a one piece 10mm spacer on the factory lugs, it is not safe due to the reduced amount of threads the lug nut catches.

The problem is figuring out whether the offset and tire size would not rub with the Eibach Pro springs since it has a 1.2" front drop and 1.4" rear drop. I know of a member here running Swift Springs (1.2" front drop, 1.0" rear drop) on their '09 GE Sport with 205/50R16s on a wheel with a +45 offset. They daily drive the vehicle and have reported that they did not experience any rubbing.

What I would recommend doing is getting a long string that runs the length from the ground to the inside of the rear wheel well, blue painter's tape (won't damage paint), and a tape measurer. Measure 2 Centimeters (20mm) from the outside (visual side) of the wheel and tire, line the string up with the 2 cm mark and tape it in the wheel well.

Using the string as a guide, see if any of the parts of the car's body go past that string towards the center line of the car. If any part goes past the string the tire could rub on that part during suspension compression and/or turning. Unless someone with first hand knowledge posts, this is one way of giving you an idea of whether or not running a spacer would work.

 

DiamondStarMonster...I made a drawing of a Honda Accessory wheel (16 X 6.5J) with 55-mm offset compared to 16 X 7J wheel with 40-mm offset...

 

That is more than a bit of an exaggeration. While they do change the wheels leverage on the hub to an extent, and that depends on the size and style of spacer used, it is definitely not as dramatic as you suggest.

Even Sprint Cars use wheel spacers. Torquing them properly and not buying cheap ones is the key.

If you are worried about the studs pound in some ARP studs.

You did raise valid considerations, but it is certainly not dangerous when properly employed.


Excellent points. And I embiggened the part you put in bold, as that is going to be the OPs biggest concern, and another reason I would recommend some ARP extended studs.

 

Well done! +Rep!

 

ah! good stuff, thanks guys!

I realize the OP was a little misleading. To be clear, I'm sticking w/ the stock wheels AND stock tires (for now). It's really just a question about ... well the kind of stuff Jodele brought up...

Personally, just thinking about it - I was thinking that people putting bigger/heavier wheel/tire combos on there is a much bigger change than simply adding offset to stock wheels... I hadn't thought about the getting longer lugs, but that makes total sense.

hmmmmm

 

(anyone have specs/links for what studs I'd need?)

 

There is a one digit difference in the part numbers between these two.. I would call the site or call ARP and see which you need:

2007 HONDA FIT ARP Wheel Studs 100-7712

2007 HONDA FIT ARP Wheel Studs 100-7711


You will need to take a torch to the hub and hammer out the old ones... or take it to someone with a shop press.

Read this thread:
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...ded-studs.html

This one as well:
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-...eel-studs.html

And maybe if you ask nicely in PM, kelsodeez or grtpumpkin can give you a hint as to what else needs to be done specifically to the Fit.

In the future though use the search feature and google, as I get the feeling there is a bunch of information on this forum about these topics.

Fortunately your thread in particular has become a dumping ground for good info from other members so I don't mind doing some of the footwork at the moment!

 

I've put in the ARP studs...what PITA! I have a 20-ton hydraulik press at home and it took every bit of it press them out. I chose not to grind on anything, so I had to remove the hubs to press out the studs. I've destroyed the disc splash shields in the process.

the 100-7711 is 16 studs for 4 x bolt patterns and
the 100-7712 is 20 studs for 5 x bolt patterns...

this is what they look like installed. I've installed a 3-mm wheel spacer for Integra
Type-R caliper clearance and needed the longer studs. I've since trimmed the studs to the correct length.

 

I got mine here...
100-7711 - JEGS High Performance

to get full strength out of a nut and bolt combination, there must be 1 bolt diameter of engagement...that is, you have a 12-mm stud, there must be 12-mm of threads in the nut engaged to the stud. Since the thread pitch is 1.5, that means that you must get at least 8 turns of the nut for full strength.

 

ok, I've officially been talked out of adding a spacer for purely cosmetic reasons xD

 

iirc, you can add a 5mm spacer on the stock bolts and be fine... just as previously stated, torque properly and in order...

 

I'll keep it in mind, but... the change was only to improve the stance a bit. If it alleviated some rubbing, that'd be one thing, but I'm not sure one could even see a 5mm difference in offset

Anyway - thanks for the help guys! Saved me some pain for sure

 

every little bit... 3mm isn't really noticeable, 5mm is nice...

 

I got my extended studs from Jegs as a kit, the ARP 4 lug set mentioned above. I only added the spcers to the rear on my car for exactly the reasons mentioned by the OP. I went with H&R 10mm spacers on stock alloys (I have an 08 GD3) at the time of install I was running 205-50-15 Nitto Neogens and had no rubbing on Skunk2 springs with one full coil cut. I have since gone to a 205-55-15 Continental Extremecontact and they rubbed like a mofo! I had to go back to a backup set of Skunk2s that had not been cut to stop most (but not all) of the rubbage. The 10mm spacers look really right with the stock alloy wheels, it does away with the "wheels hiding in a cave" look IMHO

 

Something like this?




damn... pretty pricey... $153 for the pair.


what about something like this?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...#ht_2561wt_800

 

At first glance, neither one looks acceptable...because neither one of them tell you that they are "hub centric"...pick up the center bore.

If you absolutely need to have 10-mm or thicker wheel spacers, this is the way it should be done...but that fit snugly over the center bore.

 

^ x2

and don't cheap out on these... cheaper is not better here...