Front splits 2 channel and sub monoblock amps in spare tyre well with Audison cabling.

G-Spot Soundproofing in doors - innner and outer + diffusers behind midrange speakers.

Tweeters mounted in kicks

Front crossovers for the 6.5" Crossfire x6 splits.

Aftermarket Optima battery and Audison connectors.

 

Very nice. Looks like an FHRX install.

 

Yes there are not too many places that can do the calibre of work of FHRX Studios. It is indeed one of Marty's installs. The man certainly knows his stuff.
Priceless workmanship and only the best materials.

 

Its easy to pick an FHRX install, you can tell immediately, by the sound deadener install. Very nice man.

What else in the car, audiowise??

 

Real basic by FHRX standards. Pioneer DEH-7750MP head, Crossfire X6 splits in the front powered by Crossfire VR302 2 Channel Amp, factory rears for fill running off the head unit, Infinity 8" 810w in a little sealed box powered by an Alpine V12 MSV-1050 monoblock, Audioson cable and connectors, G-Spot deadening in the front doors and the single Optima battery.

Had the monoblock and sub laying around from ages ago but the extra sealing Marty did on the sub box has given it a new lease on life. Its a shame so many people don't appreciate what a little 8" can do when setup right and it saves sooo much space.




Crossfire X6 midbass magnet vs Jazz Factory speakers

 

Very sweet. Crossfire are great products. That would be a very sweet sounding system for the price.

 

Headunit wiring loom for Pioneer after all cable joins have been soldering and heatshrink rather than joined by simple cheap electrical tape which comes apart over time. Loom has then been properly cable tied.

 

Earthing upgrade in the engine bay.

Amp earthing in the boot.

 

A dash switch was installed to turn off the sub.

 

wiring = trouble

 

Absolutely no trouble if done properly. Just the majority of people use the wrong guage cables for each specific application, they dont earth properly or with thick enough earthing cable (its just a circuit where output must equal or exceed input) and don't solder and shrink all their wire joins. Electrical tape joins are a disaster waiting to happen.

The car is designed with proper grommets and channels to do all the wire runs. You run your power wires well away from your speaker and RCA cables to minimise any chance of interference (where possible either side of the car).

Like with soundproofing you are just wasting your money on top quality audio components without proper aftermarket cables, connectors and soundproofing. A few dbs make a huge difference.

 

Wiring near the internal fuse box.

Cable runs.

Grommet thru the firewall.

 

3 steps to joining each and every cable properly.

Step 1 - Solder


Step 2 - Join


Step 3 - Heat Shrink Wrap & Cable Tie

 

where;s your spare tire?

no more?

 

The factory space saver spare which weighs more than a normal wheel is in the garage and I just carry a can the same as they supply standard on alot of new cars now including some mercs.

The stuff in a can works in most cases just the tyre shops hate it because they get covered in goop when they take the tyre off.

 

did you do some modification on the front doors?? like cutting some metal to fit the 6.5 speaker??? thnx..

 

Here in NSW, Australia cutting metal is a very serious offence as it is deemed compromising the structural integrity of a vehicle. Even slight modification would require an expensive engineering certificate. Any non-hack installers won't have a bar of cutting.

By using spaces the factory speaker holes can accomodate 6.5" speakers. The depth of the speakers magnets are an issue as you can only raise them out so far before you are unable to to still put the door trim on and clear the windows when down. That still leaves a heap of aftermarket 6.5" speakers that will fit.

 

wow...that looks great !