I was looking around for some way to do some head work for the L15, and I came upon a post from The Temple of Vtec by our very own Chikubi, or at least least I believe it's him. So I though it would be nice to past this info on to Fitfreak.

Chikubi wrote:
Actually, Top Fuel Japan has a NA tuning package for the 1.5L that hits 142.7 HP@8000RPM. The tune includes: Cylinder head overhaul/cleaning; head face polish/resurface to bump compression up; port job/polish; cylinder hone/polish; valves; original design high camshaft; new gaskets; HKS F-Con Pro; new plugs and oil; plus dyno tuning and settings. Grand total, about $3200. They also recommend adding one of their intakes, an exhaust manifold, big-bore throttle body, a good muffler, and an ATS Carbon clutch to reach the full potential of the motor, so about another $3000. So, it can be done NA, but like others have said, you'll pay the price. Here's the page from the Top Fuel site: バーチャルショップ

NOW my question , how hard is it to get these bad boys to the US? Of course we need to do the cylinder head and the HKS F-con tuning for ourselves. And as usual shipping from Japanese is going to kill us , but I think this would give the Fit's N/A tuner some new hopes without the swapping the motor.

EDIT: Of course we won't get the biggest benefit with this because of the DBW system, BUT there a new kit to fix that for us

 

Oh, that's an old one, I remember posting that. Quite honestly, I would imagine any good engine builder here could do the same work with similar results. I don't know one off the top of my head, but there has to be one that specializes in Honda that could do it. Maybe some recommendations from members here? (hint, hint)

 

laskey racing (aka portflow) would more than likely able to do the head work. but the biggest thing is going to be a camshaft that will make power that high. but 142hp for $3500??? umm.....yeah why not boost it and stomp those numbers into the ground and lets not forget tq. tq wins races.

 

that's what the sheep dont understand.

 

engine torque and actual applied torque are 2 different things. I went through the entire calculation before in another forum about my 2 vehicles and how my festiva put down more torque than my Olds Cutlass.

Factoring in gear ratios, tire diamter, available engine torque, approx drivetrain loss. My festiva(BP swap) was laying down something in order 1500ft.lbs of twisting force in first gear. and my olds cutlass with a 305 3psd auto with .308 rear end was only giving around 1200 ft.lbs of force(not factoring in torque converter gain).

So to say it properly.

Applied torque, vehicle weight and traction win races!!

Gear ratios and tire size also have ALOT to do with who wins.

 

Its because N/A has better response then turbo. Also the thing about turbos is that the power would some time kick in at the wrong time esp during turning battles. Of course there is a few people would like to counter my thoughts (esp with the WRC). However, turbos would give you the best bang for the buck power.

Just in case your wondering what so great about having a motor being able to rev higher (something that turbos wont boost, of course I'm willing to bet a few people can counter me) is that there is some instants where there a turn coming up and your about to hit the rev limiter, so what is the natural thing to do? Slow down or up-shift. So with a higher reving motor would be able to keep "gunning" it. Also a higher reving motor doesn't means that you would keep getting power at the higher RPM, it just allows to you be able to stay at the gear longer during the corners. Once again I'm petty sure that there a few of you that can counter that.

-Jimmy

P.S I like the sound of N/A better

 

J's Racing did the same thing with their street car. The advantage of going boost however, other than usable torque is the ability to use regular octane, something an 8000RPM Honda engine just doesn't like to drink. All up to you. Any decent engine builder should be able to do this though. Talk to Earl Laskey or Bisimoto or Import Builders or someone. They're all very capable engine builders and can probably point you in the right direction. I thought about doing this for my own project as well.

 

don't most boost applications require premium grade gasoline as well?

 

they do all of them. the first thing you want to do when you add F/I to the equation is bump the octane up to premium because you want to avoid detonation. Because you are adding power, the engine has to deal with more stress and needs better octane to do so.

 

psssh spend that much and go boost. you might as well go k20

but i would do it if i had the money, to stay true with our original motors.

all motor then go boost. oh man... talking about built!

 

Not all of them. I've done some builds (non-Fit related) that didn't require anything but 87 Octane. As for detonation, most new Hondas have anti-knock, so they'll pull timing anyway to avoid detonation. Not entirely sure if the Fit is equipped or not to be honest though.

 

So I guess in a nut shell HONDA's in general have GREAT applied torque. Being that HONDA's DO NOT have huge torque numbers on paper as opposed to the horsepower.
And with HONDA's being so light, they are able to be extremely competitive in the racing sceen.


tonyd

 

Yup..

Sacrifice however is much shorter gears to yield the same effect.

 

i just wish the fit would come stock 142whp revving to 8k
i would pay 17-18k for a brand new fit if honda made it that way

 

Even though it's an old post. It is a still good find. What new kit are you talking about that would be for the US? I would love to go NA with the L15 if we could remove the DBW. It would be different.

 

yea, the dbw system really limits the fits capability. but this thread is awesome. i am so interested in motor work, internals and tuning right now. im at the HP stage with my fit and i need all the info i can get. although, im more into lowering the compression rather than raising it. WAAAAAAHHHHH PSHHHHH!

 

Wow, didn't even see that thread about the TB controllers. If the controllers work for our car, I guess there might be a chance of pushing the L15 to it's full potential

 

Earl Laskey passed away a couple of years ago. very smart and down to earth guy. RIP earl.

as for Slimjimx701x I give credit where it's do. don't get me wrong there are some very impressive n/a cars out there, but you have to look at the simple physic's of it. first off our engines have a very poor rod stroke ratio(insane loading on cylinder walls at high rpm's even with the offset crank) second our cylinder heads have small ports which is great for low end velocity but not built for high rpms. as far as i'm aware there are no aftermarket cam's out there. and look at a vast majority of built n/a cars. they have insanly low geared transmissions with very high final drives (in the 4.7-4.9:1 area's) gearing would play a huge role in making a car quick(hence the applied tq stated by another earlier) ultimately you need to have the car setup to live in it's desired power band. example say you have a "laggy" turbo car that makes the meat of its power from 4k-6.5k. havent payed much attention but last I checked our cars stay above 4k when shifted at 6.5k??? now lets say you have an asperated car that has a narrower powerband with its power being made from 6.5k-8k. ok now rap out our stock gearing and i'm willing to bet it will fall out of the powerband unless you have a tight gear ratio trans. it all comes down to volumetric efficency. bigger ports(head work) bigger cam(not that we have one) bigger exhaust all = less velocity at lower engine speeds=lower VE. hence why all n/a builds have "peaky" powerbands. not trying to discourage you but just trying to help people go in the right direction. if you want to n/a go K series.

 

as for the lag debate once I get a few more miles and can bring myself to tear into the fit i'm going to build a "hopefully" viturally lagless setup. all ready have a custom turbo i'm going to try. it will be a divided setup. for those who don't know a properly designed twin scroll turbo setup can reduce lag by 1000-1500rpms. my goal is 7-10psi by 2,000-2500rpms. I built a system for my cousin and with a "way to big turbo" full t4 1.15 exhaust P trim/t67(aka t04r) non ball bearing on a built b20vtec were building 27psi by 6100rpms and 37 by 6500 (631whp/438tq @27psi) 9200rpms granted this is apples to oranges but just to give people an idea. my prototype turbo is a hybird i'm going to try. its a divided 7cm2 td04l with a 15g compressor. the compressor flows 30lb/min which can support 300hp(way more than needed but want to keep the charge temps cool)

another option for those who have deep pockets is a positive displacement blower. nice flat tq curve and pretty much happy at any speed(just don't lug them aka low rpm wot in high gears(4th, 5th)=stupid cylinder pressures and detonation) I have a 1.2L lyscholm blower if someone wants to give it a shot. lol too much work for me.

 

Very well said. Also a good side note would be the decision to go K series would give you LOTS and LOTS of trans/clutch options as well as cam, turbo, s/c, internals, differential, etc... and the mods would be cheaper and more readily available.



You just have to rip apart every part of your car in front of your driver seat.