Audiobahn ATB10AT installed today
#22
Looks great. I have a DUB8AT (made by Audiobahn, and essentially the same as the ATB8AT, though shaped a little differently) in my current car and I'm thinking of moving it to the Fit when I get it. Nice to see I can expect it to work out well. The DUB8AT has the same RMS, though with an 8" woofer, so I might upgrade to a ATB10AT.
One thing I'll note, though. You can remove those four little screws on the front of your gain control and flip it so it's right-side up in the mounting bracket. Silly, but that would drive me nuts to see it upside-down all the time.
One thing I'll note, though. You can remove those four little screws on the front of your gain control and flip it so it's right-side up in the mounting bracket. Silly, but that would drive me nuts to see it upside-down all the time.
#23
wow dude u and me are FIT BROTHERS!! i have the exact same setup in my trunk!!! lmaooooo. check it below!!
i was wondering, what wire did you hook up the amp turn-on to. i hooked it up to the purple wire b/c that gave me a current when i turned the key, but now that i turn on my headlights after about 15 minutes of driving my sub turns off and i have to turn the radio off and on again for the sub to turn back on.
i was wondering, what wire did you hook up the amp turn-on to. i hooked it up to the purple wire b/c that gave me a current when i turned the key, but now that i turn on my headlights after about 15 minutes of driving my sub turns off and i have to turn the radio off and on again for the sub to turn back on.
#25
Did you guys use the wiring kit provided with your Audiobahn tubes? In particular, I'm thinking about the power wire. Where you did you guys run it into the cabin from the battery? I've looked at the other threads and it seems most folks pierce the grommet over on the passenger side. Just wondering if you'd come up with better options since the wiring that comes with the tubes is a lot smaller than the 0 and 4 guage wires I've seen others use for power.
#26
Yeha i used that grommet also but i didn't pierce it, i just slid it off and fished the wire through then put the grommet back. I'm not worried about water b/c if u look inside the engine bay, it's tucked VERY far back there (like almost under the windshield) and the plastic window deflector also blockes water from entering so i'm not worried about water. Check out the pic below of what i'm talking about:
#27
wow dude u and me are FIT BROTHERS!! i have the exact same setup in my trunk!!! lmaooooo. check it below!!
i was wondering, what wire did you hook up the amp turn-on to. i hooked it up to the purple wire b/c that gave me a current when i turned the key, but now that i turn on my headlights after about 15 minutes of driving my sub turns off and i have to turn the radio off and on again for the sub to turn back on.
i was wondering, what wire did you hook up the amp turn-on to. i hooked it up to the purple wire b/c that gave me a current when i turned the key, but now that i turn on my headlights after about 15 minutes of driving my sub turns off and i have to turn the radio off and on again for the sub to turn back on.
#28
BTW, when I used to do install several years ago I installed these Audiobahns and they did sounded good. I can imaging how awesome they sound in a little ass Fit. Especially it being small and a wagon type car.
#29
the wire that i tapped it into is the purple wire in the back of the headunit. this wire gets signal when the car is placed in the ACC position as well as the ON position. It also turns off when u turn the radio off so everythign is nice. My amp doesn't turn off anymore like i had the previous problem. something was just being wierd. its all good now.
What I ended up doing was tapping into the rear speaker wires on the right and left before they enter the doors by removing the panels covering the seat belts. Those wires run to the back under the other panels to the high-level inputs of my DUB8AT. For the ground, I removed the right front-most cargo loop, sanded to bare metal, attached my ground wire and replaced the loop. For the remote turn-on, I used a Littelfuse Add-A-Circuit kit placed into the #10 position in the fuse box and run down the driver's side. For the power, I did like everyone else, removing the wire loom on the passenger's side, fishing my power wire through, replacing it, and running the wire down the passenger's side. I placed a Radio Shack rocker switch inline with the remote turn on. This way I can switch it off entirely when listening to AM Sports Radio, reducing the drain on my power. It's a perfect fit into the rectangular holes in the underside of the dash, and only requires snipping the back of one of the clips that holds the sound deadening material in place. It looks like this:
I'm pretty pleased with how it turned out.
Sidenote: Anyone interested in picking one of these tubes up, do a search on eBay for DUB8AT. A seller is liquidating them for $60 shipped, and has the auction set up to take offers, so they may go for less. DUB Mag Audio no longer exists, but it was simply Audiobahn, and the DUB8AT is essentially the same as the ATB8AT for less money. A great, quick way to add some bass without weighing you down and taking up all of your cargo space. Three quick-disconnects, and you have your entire car back.
Last edited by DagerOne; 09-23-2007 at 08:58 PM. Reason: Added pictures.
#30
sorry to double up...
...new problem with my install that I can't figure out.
My sub has stopped working. When I first power it up, the power LED lights up brightly and everything's great. Then after a few minutes, the LED fades a bit and the sub powers down (but the LED stays on, just dim). After that, if I switch it off and on, the LED lights up and fades immediately and no power. It's not completely dead, because this will happen for a few days, then one morning I'll start it up and everything will work great. The protection light never comes on. Then, the next time I'm in the car, it's back to the above problem. Anyone have any idea?
My sub has stopped working. When I first power it up, the power LED lights up brightly and everything's great. Then after a few minutes, the LED fades a bit and the sub powers down (but the LED stays on, just dim). After that, if I switch it off and on, the LED lights up and fades immediately and no power. It's not completely dead, because this will happen for a few days, then one morning I'll start it up and everything will work great. The protection light never comes on. Then, the next time I'm in the car, it's back to the above problem. Anyone have any idea?
#31
do u have the ATB10at subwoofer? i know for a while i would have trouble with the in-line fuse that is attached to the 8gauge power wire. Check that one out, it's either loose or soemthing. I placed mine behind the kick panel (where the dead pedal installs, right by the hood opening latch) so i would gently kick that and it would turn back on. Check the fuse.
#32
do u have the ATB10at subwoofer? i know for a while i would have trouble with the in-line fuse that is attached to the 8gauge power wire. Check that one out, it's either loose or soemthing. I placed mine behind the kick panel (where the dead pedal installs, right by the hood opening latch) so i would gently kick that and it would turn back on. Check the fuse.
Thanks for the quick response. You might have just saved me from disassembling the whole damned thing.
#36
Audiobahn has fallen off the world. I heard rumblings of Chapter 13, but who knows. As for finding one of these, they pop up on eBay from time to time. There are a LOT of the DUB8ATs on eBay right now for $49.00 OBO plus $15 shipping which, to me, is a steal. Heck, there are so many, offer them $30 and I'll bet they'd take it. I'm very pleased with mine. 2" smaller than the ATB10AT, but with the same power I believe.
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10-21-2007 10:24 PM