OEM seat removal
#2
I haven't done it, but I think it's pretty much agreed among us that you should start by disconnecting the negative battery terminal. That should make sure that you don't throw any codes. And make sure you've reconnected the airbag harnesses under the seats BEFORE you reconnect your negative battery terminal. And make sure you have your radio code, if you have the stock HU in!
#4
The manual says to pull the negative battery cable, but it's not really necessary. They recommend that becuase it prevents you from powering anything up with working on the system. Just don't leave the key in the ignition, and you are fine. I never pull the battery cable when I work on airbags, and I've never had one go off (over 100 jobs). Too much work to reset radio presets, codes etc when pulling the bat cable isn't necessary.
To pull the seat, you are right... 4 bolts, harness for seat air bag, harness for seat position sensor (drivers side) and harness for seat belt interlock (all one plug for 2009, 3 plugs for 2008 and older).
YOu don't need to through a code for air bag. Buy a 2.2 ohm resistor (not 2.2K like radio shack sells) and connect it in place of the airbag and it won't trhough a code or light up the dash as long as you transfer the seat belt to the new seat and the seat position sensor (which you can mount anywhere as long as it's plugged in). see my other posts on the topic for detail on the resistor.
To pull the seat, you are right... 4 bolts, harness for seat air bag, harness for seat position sensor (drivers side) and harness for seat belt interlock (all one plug for 2009, 3 plugs for 2008 and older).
YOu don't need to through a code for air bag. Buy a 2.2 ohm resistor (not 2.2K like radio shack sells) and connect it in place of the airbag and it won't trhough a code or light up the dash as long as you transfer the seat belt to the new seat and the seat position sensor (which you can mount anywhere as long as it's plugged in). see my other posts on the topic for detail on the resistor.
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