Iight soo all people who have systems in there car, Post up images in what you did with the boxes, And write up what kind of equipment you are useing!

 

ive run a couple of sub set ups in my fit. i dont have a camera and no photos.

19.0v (18") elemental designs in a 3 cube sealed box,
2( 13.ov) elemental designs in a 3 cubed vented tuned to 35 hz
13av elemental designs in a 2.5 cube sealed box
1 infinitly reference in a q logic sealed

same amp just tuned different for the subs.

amp and wires
with a nine1 amp with zero gauge monster cables with circuit breaker.

 

out of all those i really like the 13av of course.

 

Stock head Unit
1 - Clarion Pre-Amp
2 - 12" Kicker CVRs
1 - 1200 Watt Sony 2 Channel Amp (Subs)
1 - 200 Watt 4 Channel SSL Amp (Door Speakers)
1 - 1.5 Farad Capacitor (Forgot the Brand)

 

Alpine CDE-98??
Rockford Fosgate Power Series 6.5 components (front)
Rockford Fosgate Power Series 6.5 coax's rear)
Rockford Fosgate P3 Shallow Mount 10 inch sub in .5 ft3 sealed
Rockford Fosgate Power T-600-4 Amp
Rockford Fosgate 2 Farad Hybrid Capacitor
Rockford Fosgate 4AWG Amp Kit
Rockford Fosgate Deadskin sound deadening mat
Optima Yellow Top D51R
All factory grounds upgraded with 4 AWG

 

First of all NICE choice of equipment with all of that eD. I'm helping a friend (who might be a forum member) install a 13Av.2 into his 09 fit with a 9.1 amp. I can't seem to find what size alt this car has. Do you know? If you installed a 9.1 and any of those subs (I currently run two 13Ov.2s myself, and I know how much power they love) you no doubt would have experienced serious dimming with the stock alt. We're doing a big 3 upgrade and all, but if his alt is only 70-80 amps...he'll have some trouble.

So what size is the alt? What did you do to solve this problem.

Also, how much wire did you need for the big 3 upgrade? I'm thinking it's not much since the engine bay is so short. I know the battery to ground is less than 1 foot, but what about alt to ground and alt to battery?

Thanks a lot,
Rich

 

I plan on making my enclosure of Christmas break

 

Getting my amp wires run next week, finally, I'll get to hear my JL 12w3v2!! I'll post pics on here once it's all done...still waiting on a 2.0 farad capacitor from Amazon, and trying to decide exactly how/where to tie into my stock Navi for the sub, I'm assuming the installer will just prefer tapping into the rear speakers with a line out adapter.

 

Pics as promised!! Installer ended up tapping into the front speaker signal behind my stock navi for my sub (details below). It sounds awesome!!







1. He said it may be possible that the front speakers may have more power and a more dynamic audio signal range being sent to them from the stock head unit. (Not sure if this is true)

2. If I replace my head unit, I just need to add RCA plugs and I will have the cleanest possible signal going out, without having to run new wires.
(I don't plan to, but may be a consideration for some)

3. From what he could tell, finding a path to run the signal wires behind the head unit seemed a lot easier than than feeding them through the various crevasses and wire boots/looms inside and around the rear door panels. (Door panels are simple to remove, it's fishing the wires through that's a pain)

4. If your amplifier does not have the ability to remove the amplification sent to your rear speakers (mine doesn't) and you replace your front speakers (they would be louder!) and you move the fader to the rear to compensate, you would be giving your sub even more pre-amplification. (For example, even with my amp gain at zero, and my bass all the way down, my sub is still producing bass. Granted many newer amps don't do this, but it is still a consideration for my install.)

BTW.....my JL12w3v2 POUNDS!

 

Rich, the stock alternator is 60 amps. The computer limits the output of the alternator. I have a Ohio Generator Alternator that is rated at 160amps. The computer limits it to around 100 amps at 4000 RPMs. I have a few small Stinger batteries underneath my amp rack. Subs are JL 13W3v3's. Enclosures are sealed almost completely fiberglass.

 

i've been considering a similar setup...your sub is not bolted down i assume since you still have the cargo tray. Aren' you worried that it might slide around if you take a corner too fast?

 

not in the car yet but here is my going to be my set up
headunit = pioneer 750mp (old school, will be upgrading when i get more money)
sub = digital design 1012 in custom specs ported box
amp = diamond audio d6 450.2
components = diamond audio d3 6 inch set
amp = old school mtx 404
cant wait!!!!

 

When i get home ill post my setup!!!! its soooo loud my windshield flex's about a half inch. ill take a video of it.

 

i dont have one in my fit but the one i had in the hatch was awsome it was a full memphis set up i love memphis and swear by them.

Headunit: Panasonic CQ-C9901U
AMP: Memphis MOJO 2000D
SUBS: 2 12" MOJO subs (the old school ones)
Door speakers: Memphis PR component speakers

it was a really bangin system i won a few comps with it. like i said i love memphis and i would tell anyone to get them. but thats just me

EDIT: for the price anyways im sure you can get a way better system for a way high price and the subs have a life time warrenty and im pretty sure the new ones even come with a replaceable basket.

 

The computer wont limit the amount of amps going to your battery, the computer limits the amps going through the Fits eclectrical system so it doesn't fry the ECU. Im about to have a High Output Alternator made for my Fit Sport. Ohio Generator is going to build a 170Amp alternator in my stock housing because theres no High Output Alternator for the Fit that you can buy.

 

The stock alternator is 90 amps.The computer wont limit the amount of amps going to your battery, the computer limits the amps going through the Fits eclectrical system so it doesn't fry the ECU. Im about to have a High Output Alternator made for my Fit Sport. Ohio Generator is going to build a 170Amp for me too!! . So you can run as big of a stereo as you want and put a bigger alternator on you fit and the alternator WILL put out what it says it will. The amps are only limited to the amount going to the ECU. For my system im using 2 batteries. My stock battery and a Kinetik Hc800 Audio battery.

 

My set up isnt too hectic, nice and simple:
-Stock headunit
-Stock speakers
-1 1200W Calibra Stealth 12" Sub
-1 1200W Calibra Stealth 4 channel amp
-Ported box/enclosure
-Parrot Mki9200 ipod intergration

Looking to get some JBL 6.5" splits and co-axials in the doors, any thoughts?

 

Yep, it slides around all the time (..not good..) you should definitely bolt everything down. I just haven't figured out exactly how I want to do this yet, and I'm lazy.

 

Gee, I guess I must be a moron then. Gus at Ohio Generator is the one that tested the stock alternator and explained why you only get 100 amps out of their modified alternator. If the stock alternator is 90 amps, then I wouldn't waste your time.