Optima battery sizes?
#21
What is there to worry about? I am sure when you hide the wires, anything you put the by is going to still be pretty much inside the protection of the car. If not, try some convoluted tubing (Black stuff with ribs on it and a slit down one side). It is very very durable.
#22
I know titanium asked this but I am curious also, Why are you moving the battery? I responded to your post about the wiper bottle, and now I see why you wnat to move it. I am just curious why move the battery.
#23
aesthetics only...
I want a clean bay, less wires, moving the fuses out of the area too, going to put them up against the upper engine walls, both sides.
Anyways, not a big deal, just making the questions, and seeing where it goes in the end =D
I want a clean bay, less wires, moving the fuses out of the area too, going to put them up against the upper engine walls, both sides.
Anyways, not a big deal, just making the questions, and seeing where it goes in the end =D
#24
Use wire loom over your wires for basic overall protection. Any good car audio shop will have some or a good automotive parts store. As for cable quality, I know Stinger and JL Audio (their anal about their stuff) have cables that are true AWG (American Wire Gauge) rated wires and the jackets are of a really good quality. They haven't cheesed out with aluminum clad copper wire like 80% of the crap on the market these days. Soundquest from Stinger is their cheap line so stay away from that.
#25
Use wire loom over your wires for basic overall protection. Any good car audio shop will have some or a good automotive parts store. As for cable quality, I know Stinger and JL Audio (their anal about their stuff) have cables that are true AWG (American Wire Gauge) rated wires and the jackets are of a really good quality. They haven't cheesed out with aluminum clad copper wire like 80% of the crap on the market these days. Soundquest from Stinger is their cheap line so stay away from that.
That's what I wanted to hear, now I have an idea of where to go.
I have industrial grade wireloom, heat resistant and anti-corrosive material I got at the electronic supply store. I asked about automotive supplies, but they carry for stuff for elevators, escalators, etc.. all industrial grade. Hardly any of their supplies are meant for automotive.
#26
Go to Select Products - Car Audio Installation Materials
Click on Products, then in the search, type in wire loom. They take paypal.
I get my grille metal to cover amps and subs from them.
For JL wire, I went in their dealer locator.
California Concepts, 1020 Hansen Way, Redwood City
Auto Sound, 670 El Camino Real, Redwood City
JJ Audio Images, 1010 California Drive, Burlingame
Car Stereo Company, 4646 El Camino Real, Los Altos - Signature dealer status
Precision Auto Stereo, 21181 Mission Blvd, Hayward - Signature dealer status
One of these not only will have quality cable, but should be able to sell you a few feet of loom besides.
Click on Products, then in the search, type in wire loom. They take paypal.
I get my grille metal to cover amps and subs from them.
For JL wire, I went in their dealer locator.
California Concepts, 1020 Hansen Way, Redwood City
Auto Sound, 670 El Camino Real, Redwood City
JJ Audio Images, 1010 California Drive, Burlingame
Car Stereo Company, 4646 El Camino Real, Los Altos - Signature dealer status
Precision Auto Stereo, 21181 Mission Blvd, Hayward - Signature dealer status
One of these not only will have quality cable, but should be able to sell you a few feet of loom besides.
Last edited by radareclipse; 08-10-2008 at 09:55 AM.
#27
HAH! auto sound is the place I used to hang out at all the time.
I'll go talk to them, that's where I got my Qwest cables from, but they had no specs on the cables so I couldn't find out what their wiring was rated for. And no info on the jacket to know what their types and limits were.
Thanks for the information, I'll check them out since they are all local, with exception to the Hayward one. I don't want to pay the extra cost of the toll.
I'll go talk to them, that's where I got my Qwest cables from, but they had no specs on the cables so I couldn't find out what their wiring was rated for. And no info on the jacket to know what their types and limits were.
Thanks for the information, I'll check them out since they are all local, with exception to the Hayward one. I don't want to pay the extra cost of the toll.
#29
i used one Stinger SP1000 Car Audio Deep Cell High Amperage Replacement Battery it worked oustsanding and could be lifted with 1 hand,,
it
it
#30
i used one Stinger SP1000 Car Audio Deep Cell High Amperage Replacement Battery it worked oustsanding and could be lifted with 1 hand,,
it
it
Here are the specs if you are interested. Odyssey PC1200
#33
Most likely, yes. Increase the current draw with an amp to drive subs, and Honda shouldn't be responsible for the resulting toasted battery. That said, unless you do a lot of listening with the engine off and drain the battery, the alternator should handle any reasonable amp draw, with little to no drain on the battery. Depends on your setup, though - plenty of amperage calculators to be found online if you need to find out for sure.
Even though this is an old thread, I'll vouch for the Deka batteries as a legitimate daily use starter, and way less expensive than when they get rebadged as a Braille. But with such a tiny battery, you're obviously going to need to drive the car every day, and make sure it runs long enough to keep it charged up. I've got an ETX14 for the summer, and an ETX16 for the winter.
Even though this is an old thread, I'll vouch for the Deka batteries as a legitimate daily use starter, and way less expensive than when they get rebadged as a Braille. But with such a tiny battery, you're obviously going to need to drive the car every day, and make sure it runs long enough to keep it charged up. I've got an ETX14 for the summer, and an ETX16 for the winter.
Last edited by Daemione; 05-18-2010 at 08:12 PM.
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