Would this affect the seats functionality at all? Would they fit? Anyone done it? Would they still fold flat?

 

No they wont fold flat. The seats use the whole lower floor when they fold flat. If subs are placed under the seats this would remove this function.

Ive thought about this.

 

Well.. you could custom fabricate it.. its probably possible to remove the arm that holds the seat up, and you could put a subwoofer box(probably like 1" MDF with tons of screws and caulk) that was the same size underneath each seat.

...but I haven't really looked at how those arms might come off. If you do it, let us know, that would be pretty sweet.

 

Just need to fabricate them INTO the seat

 

Someone could always build a box onto the rear of the seats backing. Theyll still function as normal. However folding them flat couldnt be done individually anymore due to the box.

 

Your best bass performance will be in the back of the vehicle. Doing subs under the magic seats is a little like putting your subwoofer at home in the middle of the room. Because of acoustics, it will disappear. The only difference here in the car is, the subs are under a seat boundary loading so that helps a little. The end result will be far less bass with more effort than putting them in the rear. A quick easy solution without a lot of effort is:
JL Audio: Products
It comes with a grille not pictured.

 

im thinking if they were fired downward like in s 4dr truck he might come out okay... but if you are looking to shake the doors on an apartment complex you need to fire them to the back of your hatch.

 

also using tons of screws in a box doesnt make the box stronger.. screws should only be used to brace until glue dries and then removed... wood glue bond is stronger than the wood istelf

 

Using long wood screws and a technique that includes predrilling into a box with a smaller bit before putting them in does yield a stronger box. Just having glue joints isn't that strong. Some of my boxes could have been thrown off a rooftop that were so strong-utilizing screws, glue and internal bracing.

 

try breaking a box made with glue... the wood would break before the glue joints, screws should be used to be used to hold it together before the glue dries... this is from all the box builders, cabinet makers, that i know

 

wow,,
well i would deffinatly use liquid nails or some type of bonding agent.. and screws to squeese out the material.. if you were to apply a scrim cloth for a more uniform bondline it would be more powerful than the screws and even screws and glue. besides the argument is will it work.. I am going to build mine here in bout three weeks.. problably with a 10.. i have 2 12s not but they are alpine type rand are a little large... i will be using fiberglass vacuum molded so it will be stronger than the wood with glue,,well maybe we will see.... it will also be removable. I will let you kow how good it sounds when done and send pictures as well..

 

I'm speaking from doing this myself for years, not hear say from people you know. Throw a box off a roof and the glue joints will crack apart.

Fiberglass vacuum molded....I don't think so.

 

there's plenty of room to build 1 or even 2 enclosures under the magic seats and be able to remove them; when you need the cargo space.

because of the odd angles under the seats I would build an enclosure with an MDF baffle, MDF sides and top, but fiberglass flush to the floor tog get as much space as I could.

Basically build the baffle, sides of the box, and rear, to fit accordingly. Then tape/aluminum foil off the floor where you'll be adding the fiberglass. Put the semi completed box in place and lay down your mat to form fit. Just making sure it clears the folding leg(s)

Also as for using screws etc. Glue is stronger than MDF. using screws alone a box will topple if stood on. Using glue alone and clamping it tight will be very strong.

Using glue and pre-drillin and using 2"+ screws will slightly reinforce the edges and keep the box together will the glue sets.

using 2" brad nails in abundance is WAY easier and less work to hide screw holes/heads and yields the same effect.

More important than how strong the bond is, is crossbracing to keep the enclosure more rigid so it flexes less.


As for vacuum molded fiberglass. first you need to build a plug then use sid plug to build a mold. then drill said mold with vacuum bungs. or use VERY flexible vacuum bags that will fi around the entire mold nd be able to match all the curves of your piece without tearing or warping your piece.

So if you have all the time and technology to accomplish that, you might as well just buy some scuba gear and some vinyl esther resin and do it out of CF or Carbon/Kevlar composit.