I'm finally going to do it. I've decided to splurge and go all out with the audio installation for the Fit. My goal for my installation would be a) as stealthy as possible (stock HU), b) not giving up any practicality of the car (custom subwoofer enclosure), c) and achieving the cleanest sound possible (high end speakers only). Here is my plan...

First thing's first, the goods:
1) Front Speakers - JL Audio VR600-CSi (6.5" + 1" Tweeter 60W RMS)
2) Rear Speakers - JL Audio VR600-CXi (6.5" 60W RMS)
3) Subwoofer - Kicker Solo-Baric L7 06S12L74 (12", 4-ohm, 600W RMS)
4) Amp #1 - JL Audio A1400 (240W RMS @ 4-ohm)
5) Amp #2 - JL Audio A4300 (45W RMS x 4 @ 4-ohm)

Second, the install:
Since I have no time and limited skills, I'm planning to send my car out to Traffic Jamz since I live in Southern California and saw what they've done to this Mini as well as many other cars. The front and rear speakers are obvious, but I want my trunk layout to be completely stealth. I was thinking about building a false floor like what p11wrg did, except my subwoofer will be mounted into the spare wheel well like what 12o177e did or what Jester did, and the amps will be on two sides of the subwoofer. I also plan to insulate the whole car like what invisible21 did.

Lastly, the questions:
1) Subwoofer -- Like I've said, I'm ready to splurge, but I couldn't justify purchasing a JL Audio W6 or W7. They are very expensive compared to the Kicker L7. The Kicker L7 gets similar performance (on paper) compared to the JL Audio W6. Is there any reason why I should consider the W6 or even the W7? (The W7 seems outrageously priced...)
2) Sound quality -- I know, the sound quality from the wheel well mount is not going to be as good as a well designed box. But, is there anything wrong with the false floor install? What should I look out for with the design of the false floor to improve the sound quality? I was thinking about making a little "air box" in the false floor...
3) Cost -- Is Crutchfield the best place to obtain all the goodies? I'm a big fan of JL Audio, so there's no question about the brand selection.
4) Installer -- Anyone have any better suggestion with an audio installer in the Southern Cali area (preferably in the LA area) that can hook me up with a better deal and does good quality custom work?
5) Power -- Should I consider installing a capacitor for the setup? If so, what capacitance should I get? I was thinking a 2 farad should be plenty for the subwoofer/amp if at all necessary...

Sorry for the long-winded post. I would love to have some serious answers to my questions. Thank you so much in advance.

 

Update:

After reading Sound Deadener Showdown, I have decided on using the following for my sound insulation:
6) SecondSkin Damplifier
7) SecondSkin OverKill

Browsing through the VW forum, I've also discovered another custom audio installer - Auto Essentials Inc. They have done the exact false floor design that I was talking about here with this RSX.

Comment/Advise anyone? Thanks...

 

an RSX has a full size spare tire well so there's alot more room for the false floor. The Fit has very little room where the spare is. you'll have to raise the floor about 5-6" but otherwise it'll work fine.

 

I was thinking more around 4 - 5". The mounting depth for the 12" Kicker L7 is listed at 6-5/8". There's about 3 - 4" in the well from Jester's guide. This is the other reason that I don't think 12" JL Audio W6 or W7 would be ideal for this install. Hopefully the false floor is not going to be higher than the hatch opening or else it's time to go back to the drawing board again -__-

 

you still need at least 1 1/2" preferable 2" behnd the basket for the rear vent to work properly. Otherwise bass gets boomy sounding and thermal drops alot.

 

Good stuff. I measured the depth last night. I have about 10" total. 6" in the well, and I can raise the floor by 4" without it being higher than the hatch opening. Time to find an installer...

 

Very nice glad you have the space available. If i ca throw a monkey wrench in your works though if you want one very clean looking install check into a Memphis Belle amp. and get the dual 4ohm L7 and wiring it down to 2ohms. it'll give you 4x75Wrms and 1x550 for the sub. it's very slim and lon so it doesn't take up alot of practicle real-estate... Just trying to help

 

Hehe, that's not a wrench... that's what I would call a suggestion.

I'm just curious though, what are the advantages of going with 1 5-channel hybrid amp as oppose to just 1 4-channel AB amp and 1 1-channel D amp? I know that space is probably the best reason... but other than that?

I presume you're talking about the Memphis Belle 16-MCH600? On paper, it doesn't seem like I'll be saving much on height vs. the A series amp (2.4" vs. 2.5"), but I'll be saving on the width and the overall length. However the hybrid is about $100 more... So I guess back to the original question: what's the advantage of using a hybrid amp?

 

the memphis is not a hybrid amp per se.. it's actually 2 amps in 1 chassis on a shared circuit board. The 4ch section and the mono section each have independant power supllies (unlike the nine.5) an I ws talking about the MCH-1300. The MCh600 is a shared power supply amp and is really wimpy on the subwoofer section.

JL's A series amps are bargain basement quality with a JL badge on them. they only make the amp to filla whol for retailers who carry JL's full line up. They are not the normal great quality JL stuff. IF your on a tighter budget there's better amps in that price range. Like the kenwood KAC series.

 

Oops, I was looking at the MCH-1300. Thanks for keeping me away from getting the A series amp. I think I'll take your advise and get the MCH-1300.

Like I've mentioned before, budget is less relevant in this build. With that said, I don't plan to go balls out and get high end equipments because that would be a waste on the stock HU...

Speaking of stock HU, I've noticed that I forgot one very important item in my original plan... the sound processor. I know that you've mentioned in another post that the JL CL441 dsp CleanSweep is "meh." I think compared to all the others; the CleanSweep doesn't look half bad. I know that invisible21 used a RF 3sixty in his setup. I wonder which one would be better... I am not willing to go to an aftermarket HU (see my original post).

 

Of processors I've used, the AudioControl DQL 8 did everything and worked amazing. the Alpine F.I.T works great too, but you need to buy a whole differen processor unit jus to tune it so it's dumb.

 

(just read the review on the DQL 8... I'm speechless)

I'm sold. I'm even more excited about the build now. So I guess the updated setup is:
Front - JL Audio VR600-CSi
Rear - JL Audio VR600-CXi
Sub - Kicker 12" L7 4-ohm
Amp - Memphis MCH-1300
Processor - AudioControl DQL 8

Comments?

 

for your L7 you want the dual 4ohm, or dual 2ohm if you want massive power. @2ohm though it'll have a little more control from the amp. and still 600wrms.

 

Just wondering how running a amp at a lower impedence makes you have less control over the sub, care to explain?

 

higher impedance= higher damping. The memphis belle's sub section is a class D amo so it's allready at a slight disadvantage for control.

 

isnt the difference in the dampening factor going from 2 - 4ohms a negligible difference, I highly doubt you could blindly hear the difference

 

you wouldn't, but 1100+Wrms to a single 12 is exsessive. The L7's may be able to handle the power thermally, but it will bottom out with low notes if your cranking it like an animal. so 600Wrms= plenty anyways. keep in mind the belle makes full power@ 1Ohm,

 

right, but running the l7 at 1100wrms would give it plenty of headroom and, as long as gains were properly set, provide cleaner sound, wouldn't it?

 

Nope, not always the case. With a class a/b amp headroom for the sub is always great. With a class D amp that has a somewhat low damping factor , running it at a higher impedance offers better sound quality. Not a night and day difference by any means, but a slight improvement.

 

Ok folks, I've been lurking here for a bit, doing a lot of reading all over the web, and I'm ready to buy. Budget is about $1,200 and needs to get me front components, an amp, a sub, sound-deadening, and wire to hook it all up. I'm planning to install a 3sixty.1 between the factory head-unit and the amp. I plan on raising the floor over the spare tire well to install the amp and crossovers. I will put vents in the sides of the raised floor to allow air circulation for amp cooling. I'm leaning towards a 4 channel amp with 2 channels bridged for the sub. Most of my listening is acoustic or vocal, with some Clash, Violent Femmes, Pogues, and ska thrown in. Now for the hard (fun) part.

Processor:
Rockford Fosgate 3sixty.1, I know some people prefer the JL...

Amp:
Boston Acoustic GT-42 vs. Alpine PDX 4.100

Front Components:
Boston Acoustic Pro 60 vs. Focal 165VR

Sub:
JL 8W1V2 in a sonotube enclosure sticking down into the spare vs. Bazooka BT6024DVC mounted "on end" a few inches off the floor in the goofy space behind the rear shocks

Sound Deadening in Doors:
Dynamat Extreme vs. Secondskin Damplifier Pro

Concerns:
Haven't been able to A/B the Bostons vs. the Focals, I've had to go to different dealers for each.
Putting stuff on top of the sub if I build it into the floor. I'm not so much worried about physical damage ( a good grille will take care of that), I'm more concerned about rattling the things on top or just killing the sound quality.

Finally, it looks like the best pricing I have found is from woofersetc.com. A few dollars less on each item can be found on ebay, but I'd rather place one order. Anyone have another vendor I should look at?

Please share your thoughts! Looking to order in the next few days. It's been 3 weeks of looking and I'm ready to pull the trigger and get this project going.