Get your stereo advice here!!
#21
02-21-2008, 03:07 PM
Yeah theyre not that great but reguardless, 80 bucks for speakers and a box that are both mint (seeing as how shitty ones arent even that cheap) is a steal to me.
Including the box $300 is reasonable in my opinion. I already have an amp... I dont know how much you pay for a box, but they dont run up that much haha. Also remember, im not looking to enter contests and shit like that, i just want to enjoy my music. In fact, forget about the package deal thing unless its truly a deal. My boyfriends friend works at an installation place so it gives me access to [almost] wholesale prices...
I think it would help everyone here if you [want to], make a list according to not only price range, but quality as well. Starting with mediocre speakers (amps ect), then a step up from that, and finally some of the best kind in your opinion (which of course will be the most expensive).
Just a suggestion...
Including the box $300 is reasonable in my opinion. I already have an amp... I dont know how much you pay for a box, but they dont run up that much haha. Also remember, im not looking to enter contests and shit like that, i just want to enjoy my music. In fact, forget about the package deal thing unless its truly a deal. My boyfriends friend works at an installation place so it gives me access to [almost] wholesale prices...
I think it would help everyone here if you [want to], make a list according to not only price range, but quality as well. Starting with mediocre speakers (amps ect), then a step up from that, and finally some of the best kind in your opinion (which of course will be the most expensive).
Just a suggestion...
I had only 1 9kv2 in a sealed box and it was plenty of bass for me.
#22
02-21-2008, 06:16 PM
My post was missed 
. haha. Quick question though. Free air subs what do you guys think? I dont want to take up my hatch area with a huge box and have found a couple other locations i can use but only with free airs. Is it worth it or just bite the bullet and get a regular box with regular subs. Im not looking for killer competition bass just a little extra kick. Thanks in advance.
. haha. Quick question though. Free air subs what do you guys think? I dont want to take up my hatch area with a huge box and have found a couple other locations i can use but only with free airs. Is it worth it or just bite the bullet and get a regular box with regular subs. Im not looking for killer competition bass just a little extra kick. Thanks in advance.
#23
02-21-2008, 09:24 PM
If you want good quality subs and a box, I would go with elemental designs. You could get 2 9kv2 (9" subs - 100 for the box and 150 for 2 subs) and a dual sealed carpeted box for $250. If you want a lil bit bigger subs get 2 11kv2 with a dual sealed box for $305.
I had only 1 9kv2 in a sealed box and it was plenty of bass for me.
I had only 1 9kv2 in a sealed box and it was plenty of bass for me.
I'm sorry but my opinion of Ben and his crew at eD is far from good. They may make a decent product, but his business practices are some of the worst in the industry. They had a pre-sale on a run of speakers, sold them to customers and they have not came in TO THIS DAY. Ben = pos in my book.
for 250 bucks you could do much better than deal with eD's shoddy customer service
#24
02-21-2008, 09:28 PM
My post was missed . haha. Quick question though. Free air subs what do you guys think? I dont want to take up my hatch area with a huge box and have found a couple other locations i can use but only with free airs. Is it worth it or just bite the bullet and get a regular box with regular subs. Im not looking for killer competition bass just a little extra kick. Thanks in advance.
. haha. Quick question though. Free air subs what do you guys think? I dont want to take up my hatch area with a huge box and have found a couple other locations i can use but only with free airs. Is it worth it or just bite the bullet and get a regular box with regular subs. Im not looking for killer competition bass just a little extra kick. Thanks in advance.lol sorry about that, its midterm week at school so im a bit busy with it, and to be honest I thought this post would die
the setup your refering to isnt exactly "free air"
What you really want is a IB setup ( stands for infinately baffled ) and I personally have never seen one in person, heard one, or built one. There are a few builds on caraudio.com that have them, here is a link to one
req makes his VW GTi infinite baffle with IDQ15's PICS
- Car Audio Forum - CarAudio.comfrom what i've seen certain drivers work better with IB setups, the ID max's seem to be the most popular.
#25
02-21-2008, 10:05 PM
So in other words the subs you can buy from crutchfield or sonicelectronix that say free air are not really free air? Im asking cause im going for a box instal. Im going to start on it soon. I guess i can fill you in on it. Im going to make a cover, similar to the oe cargo cover for the hatch area, but im going to make it out of fiberglass with steel supports. I thought of this because if i hook it up correctly and instal the amps on it i can make it so that it is easily taken out in case i need the room. Also i retain the boot so that i can use it when the sub cover is in. If i do it correctly i can close the hatch and with the subs installed with the magnets in the boot and a properly fitted cover it should act as a somewhat sealed compartment even though it will be a huge area. Does that make sense?
#27
02-21-2008, 10:15 PM
Sorry i missed that. I cant pull up the pics cause im at work anyway so i will have to till i get home to see them. What subs would i need to use to make that work? Thanks again.
#28
02-25-2008, 03:57 PM
the most common ones ive seen used are Image Dynamics, but im sure others could work. there are certain specs that make a driver more IB compatible, but I dont know them off hand...
#29
02-26-2008, 07:56 AM
Thanks for the advice. I will do some looking and see what i find. Also i finally got a chance to look at the forum you posted and that is exactly what i was planning on doing. I think it will work out great. Thanks again for the thread link and the advice. Rep+ for you.
#31
02-26-2008, 04:05 PM
Im running an eclipse avn-5510 head unit. I have no idea what im gonna run for door speakers but i do know that im going to run 2 12's sometime. Free air is what i really want because of the space constraint as long as they sound good. I have never ran nor have i ever seen anyone running free airs so i have no idea what kind of sound im gonna get from them and dont want to find out the hard way if you know what i mean. I dont want to give away the location for now cause its kinda a secret till i can figure it out. If i cant figure it out then im gonna give the idea to anybody that thinks they can pull it off. Thanks in advance.
You can't run free-air in a hatchack, at least not with much success. Your best bet is to make your own fiberglass enclosure and get 1 really good 12 and a good amp to power it. If you want to save as much space as possible, a Infinity Perfect VQ only needs aound .75cu.ft to play very well the high "q" plug.
Last edited by Injundon; 02-26-2008 at 04:32 PM.
#32
02-26-2008, 04:06 PM
they are 2ohm speakers so will make your head unit run hotter, If you live in Cali this might cause a problem since it generally hot there to begin with. Tey are a decent sounding speaker with good efficiency and a slightly harsh tweeter. If you get the set make sure to set the tweeter to -3dB on the crosover.
#33
02-26-2008, 04:10 PM
I was going to put a system into my fit... here is what i was looking at.
Pioneer Premier DEH-P790BT (bluetooth)
Alpine PDX-2.150 2 channel amp
Alpine SPR-17S components
and then later i might add a 10inch alpine type R or JL W3 or something.... mainly looking for sound quality for now... hence why i am doing the unit and speakers before the sub.
Does it make sense to just do components up front and leave the rear doors empty?
Also is this a good setup for sound quality? I was told the pioneer decks were pretty good.
Pioneer Premier DEH-P790BT (bluetooth)
Alpine PDX-2.150 2 channel amp
Alpine SPR-17S components
and then later i might add a 10inch alpine type R or JL W3 or something.... mainly looking for sound quality for now... hence why i am doing the unit and speakers before the sub.
Does it make sense to just do components up front and leave the rear doors empty?
Also is this a good setup for sound quality? I was told the pioneer decks were pretty good.
It's a petty good start, althought he Alpine components aren't the best sounding they are some of the "bassiest" compinents so should go good without running a subwoofer. As for back speakers. leave em out. any good sound system only has 1 pair of speakers in front of you.
A alternative to your Alpine SPR's would be Focal 165V2's Much better sound, cleaner low end output.
#34
02-26-2008, 04:17 PM
Also a hammer and som spray paint might be needed for some speakers with very ide frames/mgnets. Just beat the metal hole in the door gently so it curves backward (this will actually add rigidity to the door). The spray pain the knicks so it doesn't rust.
#35
02-26-2008, 04:19 PM
I'm sorry but my opinion of Ben and his crew at eD is far from good. They may make a decent product, but his business practices are some of the worst in the industry. They had a pre-sale on a run of speakers, sold them to customers and they have not came in TO THIS DAY. Ben = pos in my book.
for 250 bucks you could do much better than deal with eD's shoddy customer service
for 250 bucks you could do much better than deal with eD's shoddy customer service
We share that opinion. eD has been a master at re-badging. and amrketting re-badged stuf as higher end than it is.
#36
02-26-2008, 05:50 PM
Thought you might find this post interesting in re 2ohm Kappa's
Hey Guys,
Andy from Harman here...I'd like to clear this up, if I can without having to get too technical.
First, we didn't just decide to make our speakers 2-ohms without doing some serious testing and verifying that it works and that the "technology" is sound. We tested lots of factory and aftermarket head units and none of them failed. Many made more power. A few made less distortion (which was a surprise) AND more power, but none of them failed. In the two years that we've been selling 2-ohm speakers, we have NEVER had a radio fail because it's been hooked up to our speakers. In every case where an installer has suspected that our speakers have caused problems, we've helped them trace wires and measure resistance and have found some other problem...poor connections, short circuits and the like.
In our test, the head unit was connected to the speakers with a 1-foot pieces of wire. That's short compared to the lengths of wire that connect your head unit to your speakers in your car and the wire contributes some additional resistance. Furthermore, after you've played the speakers for a few minutes in the car, the voice coils get hot (that's one of the laws of Physics) and their resistance increases. When that happens, our speakers look to the radio like a 4-ohm speaker and a 4-ohm speakaer looks more like a 5.5-ohm speaker. We're simply giving you back the power that you lose when you actually install the speakers in the car.
Some of you might be surprised to discover that MANY factory speakers are, in fact, 2-ohm speakers and replacing them with 4-ohm speakers DEGRADES the performance of the head unit.
Andy Wehmeyer
Product Marketing Manager
Harman Consumer Group
Andy from Harman here...I'd like to clear this up, if I can without having to get too technical.
First, we didn't just decide to make our speakers 2-ohms without doing some serious testing and verifying that it works and that the "technology" is sound. We tested lots of factory and aftermarket head units and none of them failed. Many made more power. A few made less distortion (which was a surprise) AND more power, but none of them failed. In the two years that we've been selling 2-ohm speakers, we have NEVER had a radio fail because it's been hooked up to our speakers. In every case where an installer has suspected that our speakers have caused problems, we've helped them trace wires and measure resistance and have found some other problem...poor connections, short circuits and the like.
In our test, the head unit was connected to the speakers with a 1-foot pieces of wire. That's short compared to the lengths of wire that connect your head unit to your speakers in your car and the wire contributes some additional resistance. Furthermore, after you've played the speakers for a few minutes in the car, the voice coils get hot (that's one of the laws of Physics) and their resistance increases. When that happens, our speakers look to the radio like a 4-ohm speaker and a 4-ohm speakaer looks more like a 5.5-ohm speaker. We're simply giving you back the power that you lose when you actually install the speakers in the car.
Some of you might be surprised to discover that MANY factory speakers are, in fact, 2-ohm speakers and replacing them with 4-ohm speakers DEGRADES the performance of the head unit.
Andy Wehmeyer
Product Marketing Manager
Harman Consumer Group
#37
02-26-2008, 06:19 PM
You can't run free-air in a hatchack, at least not with much success. Your best bet is to make your own fiberglass enclosure and get 1 really good 12 and a good amp to power it. If you want to save as much space as possible, a Infinity Perfect VQ only needs aound .75cu.ft to play very well the high "q" plug.
i posted this earlier and im sure you will appreciate the quality of the build
req makes his VW GTi infinite baffle with IDQ15's PICS
- Car Audio Forum - CarAudio.com
#38
02-26-2008, 08:42 PM
in a Fit which doesn't have solid metal backing on the seats and no solid cover for the hatch it will work, but not really well. VW's are great for IB since the seat backs are 16ga steel. and they have a solid deck to mount a Baffle to.
In a fit a box/enclosure of some sort is certainly the way to go.
In a fit a box/enclosure of some sort is certainly the way to go.
#39
02-27-2008, 12:31 AM
Alright so the conclusion is that free air or ib subs are not gonna work all that well for what im looking to do for my boot cover. Is there any way to make it work then or am i assed out and have to go with a regular enclosure?