Mobile sub? what do you think?
#1
Mobile sub? what do you think?
well, i had this idea, and i'd like to see what you audio guy's think?
the idea: i have a sub, and a nice small box for it, i still need an amp and wiring. now, this sub is intended for my Civic, BUT!!! i need this to be removable in my civic, so what i had planed on doing is fabing some kind of clips that hold it to my rear deck above the spare tire( keep in mind, its not the flimsy cardboard, its 3/4" plywood w/ carpet on top). then i am going to workup a quick disconnect to the amp and sub, which i should of mentioned i'm going to install the amp to the box so its one piece. thus it would be theoretically mobile and removable.
now with that in mind, i am going to do the same to the fit so i can transfer the box and amp to either car w/o spending extra money i don't want to spend to have a sub in each car. i primarly drive the civic, becasue the Fit is my wifes, which she allowes me to modify. but on trips and such, i do drive the fit, and i'd like to find a way that i can just throw it in and use it.
i do plan on doin a D.I.Y writeup once i gather all the parts, but i guess i wanted to see what you all thought!
thanks,
your fellow FItFreak,
92dxhatch
the idea: i have a sub, and a nice small box for it, i still need an amp and wiring. now, this sub is intended for my Civic, BUT!!! i need this to be removable in my civic, so what i had planed on doing is fabing some kind of clips that hold it to my rear deck above the spare tire( keep in mind, its not the flimsy cardboard, its 3/4" plywood w/ carpet on top). then i am going to workup a quick disconnect to the amp and sub, which i should of mentioned i'm going to install the amp to the box so its one piece. thus it would be theoretically mobile and removable.
now with that in mind, i am going to do the same to the fit so i can transfer the box and amp to either car w/o spending extra money i don't want to spend to have a sub in each car. i primarly drive the civic, becasue the Fit is my wifes, which she allowes me to modify. but on trips and such, i do drive the fit, and i'd like to find a way that i can just throw it in and use it.
i do plan on doin a D.I.Y writeup once i gather all the parts, but i guess i wanted to see what you all thought!
thanks,
your fellow FItFreak,
92dxhatch
#2
I've done that between my ole Mazda Tribute and GTX. You need some somewhat special connectors for the power. I'll find a pic of them and post them up here. I have them in my Fit now, it allows you to "quick disconnect" the powe and ground without risks of wires shorting. Then jus unplug the RCA's ad away ya go
From
"The Install Bay" Part #SB120
The Install Bay
Order 2 and there's your power disconnets
From
"The Install Bay" Part #SB120
The Install Bay
Order 2 and there's your power disconnets
Last edited by Injundon; 11-20-2007 at 07:16 PM.
#5
To hold the mobile sub box in place in both cars, I suggest using industrial strength Velcro. Good prices for the 2" wide strips at Computer Cables, Computer Parts, Computer Accessories, Computer Adapters, PC Components.
Buy some 1" or 1 1/2" wide, 1/16" thick aluminum bar stock at your hardware store and cut it to whatever length you want to make two strips for the floor mounts. Pre-drill holes for sheet metal screws in each aluminum strip and countersink the holes, then cover the aluminum pieces with the soft (loop side) Velcro so that the edges wrap under the aluminum bars. The fully Velcro covered side goes up, the side with the Velcro edges wrapped around goes down. Use flat head sheet metal screws poked through the Velcro and through the holes in the aluminum strip under the Velcro, and fasten the screws to your floor.
The hook side Velcro strips go on the underside of your sub enclosures, and the whole assembly can be easily moved from car to car using the connectors suggested by Don.
If you doubt the strength and reliability of Velcro to securely hold the sub enclosures, this is the method that I used to hold two powered Bazooka subs to the tops of behind-the-wheelwells storage boxes in a Ford Bronco.
A strip of hurricane fence material hanging out in the roadway snagged my right front tire, blew it up, broke the aluminum wheel, and tore the tire, wheel, and right side axle completely off the truck and stopped it dead. The subs stayed right where they were.
The driver right behind me was a CHP officer who kept oncoming traffic from driving right into my wreck. First time I was ever glad to have a cop right on my tail.
Buy some 1" or 1 1/2" wide, 1/16" thick aluminum bar stock at your hardware store and cut it to whatever length you want to make two strips for the floor mounts. Pre-drill holes for sheet metal screws in each aluminum strip and countersink the holes, then cover the aluminum pieces with the soft (loop side) Velcro so that the edges wrap under the aluminum bars. The fully Velcro covered side goes up, the side with the Velcro edges wrapped around goes down. Use flat head sheet metal screws poked through the Velcro and through the holes in the aluminum strip under the Velcro, and fasten the screws to your floor.
The hook side Velcro strips go on the underside of your sub enclosures, and the whole assembly can be easily moved from car to car using the connectors suggested by Don.
If you doubt the strength and reliability of Velcro to securely hold the sub enclosures, this is the method that I used to hold two powered Bazooka subs to the tops of behind-the-wheelwells storage boxes in a Ford Bronco.
A strip of hurricane fence material hanging out in the roadway snagged my right front tire, blew it up, broke the aluminum wheel, and tore the tire, wheel, and right side axle completely off the truck and stopped it dead. The subs stayed right where they were.
The driver right behind me was a CHP officer who kept oncoming traffic from driving right into my wreck. First time I was ever glad to have a cop right on my tail.
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