Check out this sh*t
#1
06-25-2007, 08:16 PM
Check out this sh*t
Just made this custom box/amp rack myself,(all one piece,and tight and strong enough to probably act also as a chasis support), first one ever......pretty proud of it. This thing seriously thumps, pops the sirius radio reciever out of its dock at 25% power! - Cadence TXA1000d mono class-d amp ; (2) Kicker 12" compvr subs; pushing about 400 rms watts per channel at two Ohms. I made the box level with the floor. ( pulled the back seats awhile ago, I dont carry passengers, just dogs and gear/tools). It's f'ing sweet even though it goes against my "drop weight/go fast" philosophy. Oh, and I was surprised that the stock mids and highs didn't get drowned out by the subs, sounds great for all music.
[/img]
[/img]
[/img] Oh yeah, the boxes are sealed and poly-fil'ed, each different dimensions but both around 1.25+- cu.ft. and I wanted to say thanks to everyone who posts "how to's" because I tried to wing it and found myself in trouble and consulting various posts. Ohhh...and... did I mention all for about $500,(Cadence amp $500 OFF on thier web site and kicker compvr's are buy one get one FREE!). ...and the seats fully push back AND fully recline, you can recline right on top of the subs and it's like a sick massage chair!!!
[/img][/img][/img] Oh yeah, the boxes are sealed and poly-fil'ed, each different dimensions but both around 1.25+- cu.ft. and I wanted to say thanks to everyone who posts "how to's" because I tried to wing it and found myself in trouble and consulting various posts. Ohhh...and... did I mention all for about $500,(Cadence amp $500 OFF on thier web site and kicker compvr's are buy one get one FREE!). ...and the seats fully push back AND fully recline, you can recline right on top of the subs and it's like a sick massage chair!!!
Last edited by gthumb23; 11-11-2007 at 08:01 PM.
#4
07-01-2007, 10:03 PM
Thanks, it was a bit of work but I'm real happy with it. It was a "chop, cut, rebuild" too, because the amp is about 25" I had to notch out the center console and slide down the amp to be even with the box/rear floor lip, looks clean though. Right now I'm looking at my Polk db6501 component system and my door with the panel removed and trying to figure out how to mount this stuff. I've read all the threads relating to this procedure but I'm still not sure how is the best way to go about it, especially the tweeters, I don't really want to permanently alter anymore interior panels but I think I may have to enlarge the stock tweeter holes and fit in the aftermarket cups.
#5
07-02-2007, 08:07 PM
Just finished installing the polk db6501 components. Took about an hour per door, enlarged the stock tweeter mount holes to use that location. Looks and sounds clean and sharp. Thanks again to everyone who posts "how to's".
#7
07-02-2007, 11:21 PM
Nope. Don't like 'em, don't need 'em, don't want 'em. Like I said I don't want to carry more than one passenger and it's great to have all that space for my dogs/ tools/ gear. I took them out about 6 months ago, useless weight.... now I put that weight back in a different form.
#8
07-17-2007, 08:54 PM
Well, a friend of mine convinced me to change my front setup. He insists that I would be MUCH happier with Eclipse SC6500 components powered by a Cadence M2000 amp,( on sale for $119 !!!). We'll see, parts are ordered.
#9
07-17-2007, 10:03 PM
pushing about 400-500 rms watts per channel at two Ohms.
#10
07-17-2007, 11:00 PM
Your amp is a mono class-d. This means it only has one channel. You probably bought the dual 4 ohm speakers and wired the voice coils in parallel to get 2 ohms for each speaker. Then wired the speakers in parallel to the single channel of your amp for a final resistance of 1 ohm.
[/img]Like I said @ 2 Ohm and before you say it... the guys at Cadence,( although 2nd hand through an installer), said thier amps are consistently underrated and my setup was probably more in the ballpark of 800 watts vs. the stated 650 @ 13 volt input)
#11
07-17-2007, 11:35 PM
Heh, that was the point I was trying to bring out in a round-a-bout way. While what I stated would be optimum for your setup, in reality I thought you got the dual 2 ohms. These do not fully utilize your amp. So they are getting more like 325 rms each instead of the 400-500 you said. It's not per channel either, as it is a single channel amp.
The older Cadence amps like the A7HC were underrated, newer stuff not so much.
The older Cadence amps like the A7HC were underrated, newer stuff not so much.
#12
07-18-2007, 12:02 AM
"I thought you got the dual 2 ohms. These do not fully utilize your amp. So they are getting more like 325 rms each instead of the 400-500 you said. It's not per channel either, as it is a single channel amp."[quote]
The ones that I got were all they had , unfortunately, I was planning on running @ 1 Ohm. And I am feeding the amp 14.4 volts not the 13.? that it is rated at, and as I was told that it is "under rated", he said 400, I said 400+? He said maybe... but closer to 400. I'll admit I wanted to claim 400+, but from what I understand that is true, and yes, I should have said "per speaker" vs. "per channel", my bad. Thank you for the correction.
The ones that I got were all they had , unfortunately, I was planning on running @ 1 Ohm. And I am feeding the amp 14.4 volts not the 13.? that it is rated at, and as I was told that it is "under rated", he said 400, I said 400+? He said maybe... but closer to 400. I'll admit I wanted to claim 400+, but from what I understand that is true, and yes, I should have said "per speaker" vs. "per channel", my bad. Thank you for the correction.
Last edited by gthumb23; 07-18-2007 at 01:18 AM.
#13
07-29-2007, 11:37 PM
Alright... I finally changed out my subs for the dual 4 Ohms I originally wanted, now running at 500 rms watts per sub @1 Ohm. I also added the Cadence M2000 amedeus 2 channel amp for the fronts, now I'm just waiting on the Eclipse sc6500 components to come in to replace these Polk's.... Although now that I hear these Polk's amped.... they sound real, real, nice....as do the subs at 1 Ohm.
[/img]
[/img]
[/img][/img]
Last edited by gthumb23; 11-10-2007 at 09:42 PM.
#16
07-30-2007, 12:46 AM
Neither of those will help lessen the load on our electrical systems, but I suppose they don't really hurt either. So that's good you aren't seeing a problem. I'm worried I am going to kill my alternator.
A voltage regulator isn't going to make you use less power so it won't lessen the load on our electrical system. Also, here is an explanation on why you don't need a capacitor. Just somethign I quickly found. It's not very scientific but it gets the basic point across.
A voltage regulator isn't going to make you use less power so it won't lessen the load on our electrical system. Also, here is an explanation on why you don't need a capacitor. Just somethign I quickly found. It's not very scientific but it gets the basic point across.
No...you never need a cap...ever.
Here's a real quick explanation...
First of all lets reiterate some basic electrical theory. You need to know that current always flows from the highest electrical potential to the lowest. In other words, the source of power with the highest voltage will be what your system draws from.
Your alternator is the main source of power. It has the highest voltage, and it maintains that voltage until the load placed on the alternator is more than it can provide, in which case the voltage drops, very very very quickly.
A capacitor is not at all similar to a battery. A capacitor simply stores electricity, that is all. It will charge to the highest voltage on your system, whatever voltage your alternator puts out, and then do nothing until that electricity is drawn from the capacitor. A battery on the other hand actually creates electricity from chemical reactions. Both a battery and a capacitor have a limited life. A capacitor will drop volts VERY quickly, in less than a second a medium powered audio system will drop a capacitors voltage below that of the battery, which then stops any electricity from being drawn from the cap, since, again, voltage always flows from the highest electrical potential to the lowest. The battery, unlike the capacitor, can maintain it's voltage for a sustained period of time. Eventually it will drop volts too, but it lasts 1000x longer than a capacitor does.
So to put it very simply. Once your alternator is pushed too far, the current will be drawn from the capacitor since it was charged to the highest voltage, in about 1 second the capacitor will have dropped enough voltage that the load will then be placed on the battery.
So if you'd rather spend money on a capacitor to power your system for one second, go ahead, but just getting a better alternator will be a much better solution to your voltage problems.
My suggestion to you is to get a better alternator first. Upgrade your wiring to make sure it's being fully utilized. Then maybe get a Kinetik battery.
Here's a real quick explanation...
First of all lets reiterate some basic electrical theory. You need to know that current always flows from the highest electrical potential to the lowest. In other words, the source of power with the highest voltage will be what your system draws from.
Your alternator is the main source of power. It has the highest voltage, and it maintains that voltage until the load placed on the alternator is more than it can provide, in which case the voltage drops, very very very quickly.
A capacitor is not at all similar to a battery. A capacitor simply stores electricity, that is all. It will charge to the highest voltage on your system, whatever voltage your alternator puts out, and then do nothing until that electricity is drawn from the capacitor. A battery on the other hand actually creates electricity from chemical reactions. Both a battery and a capacitor have a limited life. A capacitor will drop volts VERY quickly, in less than a second a medium powered audio system will drop a capacitors voltage below that of the battery, which then stops any electricity from being drawn from the cap, since, again, voltage always flows from the highest electrical potential to the lowest. The battery, unlike the capacitor, can maintain it's voltage for a sustained period of time. Eventually it will drop volts too, but it lasts 1000x longer than a capacitor does.
So to put it very simply. Once your alternator is pushed too far, the current will be drawn from the capacitor since it was charged to the highest voltage, in about 1 second the capacitor will have dropped enough voltage that the load will then be placed on the battery.
So if you'd rather spend money on a capacitor to power your system for one second, go ahead, but just getting a better alternator will be a much better solution to your voltage problems.
My suggestion to you is to get a better alternator first. Upgrade your wiring to make sure it's being fully utilized. Then maybe get a Kinetik battery.
Last edited by chase123; 07-30-2007 at 12:49 AM.
#17
07-30-2007, 01:02 AM
Yeah all that makes sense but ... that said , when I was running one amp ,(sub), nothing else , my car lights and other accessories would experience visual/ audible drains at serious bass hits... now with this setup and two amps and the subs at 1 Ohm there is no indication of drain what-so-ever... so... whatever works I guess.I would like to upgrade my battery though I think., worth it? ,( ALL my speaker wiring done in Tsunami Competition 12 gauge wiring, power and grounds done in 4 gauge.).
Last edited by gthumb23; 07-30-2007 at 01:35 AM.
#18
07-30-2007, 08:11 AM
A better battery will definately help since ours sucks, but if you aren't having any problems at the moment I wouldn't mess with it. There doesn't seem to be any reasonably priced alternators for us yet. That's what I'm really looking forward to.
#19
08-19-2007, 09:02 PM
Well, I put in the Eclipse sc6500 components about 2 weeks ago. At first I was wishing I had my Polk's back, because these Eclipse's are REAL touchy as far tuning goes and at first I thought they may have been defective,( turned out to be the PAC input converter). Now I think the Eclipse sound real nice and I'm happy I have them, but... DAMN those input converters straight to hell, it is still acting strange, fading in and out randomly? I had no plans of replacing my head unit but I think these PAC input converters are going to force my hand. I'm thinking maybe the Kenwood Excelon-X591???
#20
11-10-2007, 10:06 PM
Well I decided to make a few investments in order to achieve a true audiophile system, ( within a resonable budget). I upgraded my subs to the Eclipse SW7200's, incredible subs,( looking and sounding), for the money. The best investment though was getting rid of those damn input converters and getting a proper, quality head unit to truely take advantage of all my other system components. I also got some cheap Pioneers for the rears, just for a little fill thats better than stock. It sounds so good I look for any excuse to drive and I take the long way.
[/img]
[/img][/img]
[/img
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/IMG]
[/img][/img][/img][/img[/img][/img][/img][/IMG]
Last edited by gthumb23; 11-11-2007 at 05:07 PM.